best post in the ****ing thread //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gifWhat is funny is, the OP asked a question, and then hates on anyone that doesn't give him the answer he wants. Troll thread? You decide.
Idiot. you ever run the vacuum and wonder why the power cord is warm? thats your electricity turning to heat because the wire is too small.some people just have to much time on there hands...wow. But still is right... i dont need 1/0 gauge for a 105-160 amp alt. 4 gauge will be enough. HIII HHAAATTERRRSSS
I know what you meant... and what you meant is right, but what you said isn't. One can't be better than the other because it's a symbiotic relationship. One can't do its job without the other. When you're talking about which one is "better" to replace or upgrade, then you have to look at where your biggest bottleneck is. If you have a 105 amp alt and you have 10 gauge stock + and - charging wires, the wires are your biggest bottleneck. If you have 1/0 big 3, and great grounds and 1/0 power wire, and you still have significant voltage drop, you need to look into a HO alt. I know you know this, and it's what you meant to say and I'm posting this all just because of a phrase. Sorry for that, I just like to clear things up for the noobs.Idiot. you ever run the vacuum and wonder why the power cord is warm? thats your electricity turning to heat because the wire is too small.
Lead acids **** for car audio. Ok for a starting batt I guess, I dont usually change mine out till they go bad but I ALWAYs have a second battery in the trunk for anything over about 600rms. not that expensive.
With that said I have 1/0 KMLX, yes thats the cheaper copper clad aluminum. It probably cost what your 4 gauge did unless its cca too. 65 bucks ran the big three and to the trunk.
I push 2k total with the highs and I see no voltage drops with a stock 80amp alt.
Batteries and good wiring are 1000x better than an alt.