High Power Boat 10", convince not to order solobaric :)

[hogie roll]

I'm finally ready to upgrade the stereo in my boat, bigly (note to admins, trump is pres now)

I'm not interested in using low powered marine free air subs. I intend to build an enclosure out of starboard.

I had previously decided I wanted a solobaric due to the plastic polypropylene cone and rubber surround. Well I saw the price and decided to look for alternatives. So I came here and a week later I'm still stumped. Most of the stuff I see recommended has a paper cone. So here are my requirements.

10" I don't want to cut fiberglass

Plastic cone

Rubber surround

600+w Rms, ideally 1000 or more

i know there are some less marketed brands you guys like to rec, so throw them out there. I've looked at a lot!

i initially wanted a single sealed 10" with 500 w rms. But now I'm thinking overkill and doing 2 10s. My old boat had a single sealed kicked comp rt10 with 500w rms. It was pretty good, but got maxed out a lot. But a single extreme 10 could get the job done. I was thinking sealed due to my impression that ported boxes could be peaky, but some reading has me convinced that's wrong. I've actually built and enjoyed a number of ported enclosures in my youth.

Click to read more...

 

[ilikeradios 10+ year member]

Where are the woofers going to be mounted?

 

[hogie roll]

The leaning post (seat) in the center of the boat firing into the outer wall (gunnel)



It has 4 plastic doors. The doors are mounted into openings that measure 11.25" wide and 16" tall with rounded corners. I intend to take the doors and frames out and build a face that screws into the same holes and has an enclosure hanging off the back of it.

My experience in my previous boat was that firing the sub backwards into the corner of the boat was much better than facing it forward. That's why I intend to point these at the gunnels which are less than 2' away. And the whole thing would be removable.

 

[hogie roll]

Just saw the recommendation sticky:

1 or 2 10s pref 1

Box size ideally less than 1'^3. CSA will be about .84ftsq so it will get very deep to make a big box.

Power, liking that cab 1600 a lot

Music, all of it, booty bass included, would like to go deep, get loud and sound good

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Just saw the recommendation sticky:
1 or 2 10s pref 1

Box size ideally less than 1'^3. CSA will be about .84ftsq so it will get very deep to make a big box.

Power, liking that cab 1600 a lot

Music, all of it, booty bass included, would like to go deep, get loud and sound good

you only have enough space to do a single 8 ported or a single 10 sealed. No way in heck can you run kicker square subs either because their box requirement is a lot bigger due to the increase of cone area of a square sub.

Space makes bass, universal rule of audio, if you have an ineadequate box, you'll have inadequate performance no matter what sub and power you have.

 

[hogie roll]

They rec .8 min sealed and 1.25 ported for a solobaric 10. SQ ported 2.25 however, which I don't think I can do as it would make the box almost 3' deep and uninstallable

 

[hogie roll]

Is the hcca 104 truly a rubber surround with a .75 cu ft rec ported box volume?

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18538_Orion-HCCA104.html

I'm seeing it listed elsewhere with a foam surround but the Orion website is worthless from my phone.

I like this Dayton ultimax and price, I'd probably want 2 though. Is this nomex cone material like a hard plastic or a water permeable clothe?

Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coil - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components

What about this fiberglass reinforced cone? Is it reinforced paper?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K25100C/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9SZ2S01MV4T1JXXG1BQ&dpPl=1&dpID=71UdV2MeveL

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Alpine Type R is a good option. Don't expect amazing output from 1 10 in a open cabin. Id do a loading baffle design.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Is the hcca 104 truly a rubber surround with a .75 cu ft rec ported box volume?
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18538_Orion-HCCA104.html

I'm seeing it listed elsewhere with a foam surround but the Orion website is worthless from my phone.

I like this Dayton ultimax and price, I'd probably want 2 though. Is this nomex cone material like a hard plastic or a water permeable clothe?

Dayton Audio UM10-22 10" Ultimax DVC Subwoofer 2 ohm Per Coil - Subwoofers - Loudspeaker Drivers By Type - Loudspeaker Components

What about this fiberglass reinforced cone? Is it reinforced paper?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K25100C/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_107_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D9SZ2S01MV4T1JXXG1BQ&dpPl=1&dpID=71UdV2MeveL

They rec .8 min sealed and 1.25 ported for a solobaric 10. SQ ported 2.25 however, which I don't think I can do as it would make the box almost 3' deep and uninstallable

the 2.25 is the actual requirement. The minimum recommended is BS and horrible results. They just put that so they can sell to the unknowing masses. What do you think sells more marketing wise? a Sub that you can shove anywhere or a sub that actually needs a real enclosure? Never trust the minimum specs from mainstream companies.

Seriously though you DO NOT have space for a 10 ported. Because you dont have enough displacement for proper amounts of port area. You cant expect to shove a tiny port and expect it to sound good or get loud or have a low enough tuning. You are completely underestimating what it takes to get loud output out of a subwoofer.

 

[hogie roll]

Alpine Type R is a good option. Don't expect amazing output from 1 10 in a open cabin. Id do a loading baffle design.

Pulp cone, Kevlar reinforced

 

[hogie roll]

Alpine Type R is a good option. Don't expect amazing output from 1 10 in a open cabin. Id do a loading baffle design.

Not familiar with that.

 

[hogie roll]

the 2.25 is the actual requirement. The minimum recommended is BS and horrible results. They just put that so they can sell to the unknowing masses. What do you think sells more marketing wise? a Sub that you can shove anywhere or a sub that actually needs a real enclosure? Never trust the minimum specs from mainstream companies.

Seriously though you DO NOT have space for a 10 ported. Because you dont have enough displacement for proper amounts of port area. You cant expect to shove a tiny port and expect it to sound good or get loud or have a low enough tuning. You are completely underestimating what it takes to get loud output out of a subwoofer.

Sounds like I should plan on two sealed 10s then. I can build the same box for the other side.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Sounds like I should plan on two sealed 10s then. I can build the same box for the other side.

You said you have less than 1 cubic feet around .84 cubic feet. subtract .1 for the space the subwoofer takes up, you only have .74 Thats barely enough for a single 12 with A LOT of polyfill. Two 10s will require the full cubic feet after subtracting the airspace the subwoofer takes up. So i'd recommend a single 12 instead.

 

[hogie roll]

I said .84 square feet will be my enclosures cross sectional area (csa), so I use that number to calculate my needed enclosure depth based on the sub recommendation.

I can not fit a 12 due to it being too wide. I have an 11.25" wide opening that I intend for my enclosure to fit inside of. So if my enclosure is 11.25" wide on the outside and I build it out of 0.75" material, my internal width will be 9.75". Too narrow to fit the cut out for a 12" in.

I'm liking the rubber surround and aluminum cone on the RF P3D2-10. It says ideal sealed enclosure of 0.59ft^3. With the 0.07ft^3 woofer displacement the enclosure would be 0.66ft^3.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_5751P3D210/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D2-10.html

 

[hogie roll]

Enclosures would look like this



Starboard is expensive yeesh. Got me rethinking doing 2x 10s