High Output Alternator Trouble. Need advice

[Radioflyer97 10+ year member]

I purchased a 200amp alternator for $475 from rushpowersystems.com in February after designing a sound system for my car. Last week the alternator gave out while driving. After talking with Darren Flint (owner of Rush power systems) he told me I could send it back for warranty repairs.

After receiving the alternator, Darren said that the unit overheated and could be fixed by replacing components that were destroyed. He also suggested some sort of coating that would cool the alternator. I informed him that this car was my daily driver and he said he could put a rush on the work required. I was fine with this assuming that it was under the lifetime warranty offered by rush power systems on their alternators. See link:

(http://rushpowersystems.com/toppage1.htm)

After talking with him today he said it would be another week before he could get the alternator back to me and that it would cost $150 to fix and that the lifetime warranty only covered labor…total warranty only lasted for 3 months. I’m suspicious that the unit itself was faulty because it failed so quickly and I shouldn’t be responsible for repairs to it. Darren claims that my system is causing the alternator to work excessively and is causing the overheating.

This is how Darren described the alternator in Emails:

“ …another problem whit your stock alternator design is there is not enough venting to dissipate the heat, the newer alternator solves that problem”

(alternator specs)

engine idle (700 to1000 rpm) 80 / 120 amps

part throttle cruse (1500 to 2500 rpms) 140 / 180 amps

power mode (2500 to 4500 rpms) 150 / 225 amps

"...for daily use for systems up to 1500 watts at normal volume.”

(regarding clutch pulley option which I requested)

“I wold also recommend our clutch pulley. with the clutch pulley when you stop at a light the alternator "freewheels" at the same speed it was turning when you were at cruse speed. this will give you a soother power curve, as well as the ability to produce a proximally 150 amps at an idle whit no power loss on the top end. this option would add $75.00 to your total.”

I’ve only had this unit since mid February and have put less than 500 miles on the car since it was installed.

The System power demands were as follows:

Peak power:

JL 500/1 – 50 amp fuse

(2) Alpine MRP F250 amps – 2x 15amp

(total of all amp fuses) 110

The JL is set at 50% and Alpines are set at 70%. I have yet to have my volume level above 50%. This means the current draw shouldn’t exceed 50 amps even during a musical peak. I also have the “big 3” using Knukoncepts KOL4 awg wire.

My car's alternator mounting setup requires a special size chassis. An OEM replacement alternator is $500 and pre-owned ones are nearly non-existant.

What would you do in my situation?

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[Sythlord79 10+ year member]

im wondering why u purchased an h/o alternator at all? Couldnt ur stock alternator have powered ur current system?

 

[mjf 10+ year member]

you got screwed.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

How can he claim your system is causing the alt to work excessively, when it falls well within the 1500 watt window he himself listed as acceptable?

This whole thing doesn't make alot of sense to me. Small system, huge alt, you burned it up?

 

[Black_Jesus 10+ year member]

by chance do you hit high rpm's frequently?

 

[Radioflyer97 10+ year member]

im wondering why u purchased an h/o alternator at all? Couldnt ur stock alternator have powered ur current system?

The alternator my car came with was a 110 amp alternator. It might have been able to power my system, but i wanted to be certain i was going to have plenty of power.

I get around 5krpm every once in a while, but my alternator was equipped with a clutch pulley that allows it to free spin like a bicycle wheel after hitting a higher rpm level.

....it makes no sense to me either.

 

[Radioflyer97 10+ year member]

I Put the $150 repair charge on my credit card. I just received the repaired alternator today via UPS.

The result: it's Shiny, but still broken. It doesn't put out ANY power. I have disputed the charge with my CC company. I will be taking the alternator to a local Alternator shop to have it re-built.

Bottom line: DO NOT BUY FROM RUSH POWER SYSTEMS. They do not stand behind their product!

Lessons Learned:

- Just because sombody has the best price, it doesn't mean their product is the same quality

- Try to purchase essential operating equipment locally

- Your credit card compnay is your friend...as long as yoru part breaks before 180 days from the date of purchase (delivery time is not accounted for in this time period)

- Reputation is Customer service is more important than price.

 

[QtrHorse 10+ year member]

I would just do a charge back on the whole amount from the original purchase if you can.

 

[TIeclipseMOJO 10+ year member]

hes full of shit that your system is over drawing your alternator unless he built you a peice of shit. now that clutch pully is something ive never seen but could possibly be a hell of an idea, id like to see more info on it

 

[Radioflyer97 10+ year member]

I would just do a charge back on the whole amount from the original purchase if you can.

I tried to originally when I sent it back on Aug 10. but i missed the dealine to do so by 2 weeks.

hes full of shit that your system is over drawing your alternator unless he built you a peice of shit. now that clutch pully is something ive never seen but could possibly be a hell of an idea, id like to see more info on it

The clutch pulley acts like a bicycle. It allows the alternator "innereds" to "coast" after a shift. It's originally designed for automatic transmissions but could also see use on manuals. Ironically It's the only thing on the whole piece that didn't break.