High output alt or...

[dsturbd 10+ year member]

Alright, I am running roughly 2000 watts (AQ2200D) and would like to know what is a good choice for me without spending too much money.

My alternator is stock (75AMP) I have been looking on ebay and found some 150ish amps for about $140-$190

What I would like to know if it's needed to buy a "H/O" alternator and spend $300-$400

Also, can you guys recommend me to some good companys please, thank you.

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[95BlackGA 5,000+ posts]

You should be fine with the 150ish amp alt.

 

[dsturbd 10+ year member]

Hello 95BlackGA, thanks for the quick response, I am very happy to know I might get off easy, would you consider http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00-NEW-HONDA-CIVIC-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-160-AMPS_W0QQitemZ130247172890QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130247172890&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

A alright alternator?

 

[dsturbd 10+ year member]

Any other suggestions? =)

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Without a battery or two to back up the alt, you aren't going to see a difference with just an alt upgrade.

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Any other suggestions? =)

Give Mechman a hollar...theyd have options for you within that price.

And x2 on the battery/batteries...I would upgrade your battery to XS Power, Kinetik, BatCap, Stinger, etc. to see a true difference and possibly add one in the rear..Also do the Big 3 if it hasnt been done

 

[Ali1 10+ year member]

if your spending 3-400 on an alt, make sure it's atleast 220amps or higher. You'll be happier know that your driving around with voltage up to par rather than driving with 11.8v

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

Most of your low cost alternators only change out the Stator to increase output. This increases the high RPM output, but decreases the low RPM output. In order to bring the low RPM output, a custom rotor needs to be used, and then a custom regulator has to be designed to handle the additional amp draw of the rotor. (which isn't cheap)

Low RPM output is what the extra money gets you.

Also, figure aprox. 80 amps draw for every 1000 watts RMS at full volume. Figure 50-60 amps to power the vehicle with all the lights and AC on. Finnally figure that no alternator puts out full output at idle. If you want to engineer the charging system to last, the alternaotor's idle output should equal the full draw of the stock vehicle + amplifiers.

With today's audio systems, it is almost impossible to have enough alternator, which is why people suplement with batteries.

 

[1rockford1 5,000+ posts]

wow i like just learned a lot right there thanks

 

[Pioneer~Saturn 5,000+ posts]

Most of your low cost alternators only change out the Stator to increase output. This increases the high RPM output, but decreases the low RPM output. In order to bring the low RPM output, a custom rotor needs to be used, and then a custom regulator has to be designed to handle the additional amp draw of the rotor. (which isn't cheap)
Low RPM output is what the extra money gets you.

Also, figure aprox. 80 amps draw for every 1000 watts RMS at full volume. Figure 50-60 amps to power the vehicle with all the lights and AC on. Finnally figure that no alternator puts out full output at idle. If you want to engineer the charging system to last, the alternaotor's idle output should equal the full draw of the stock vehicle + amplifiers.

With today's audio systems, it is almost impossible to have enough alternator, which is why people suplement with batteries.

Haha, who has AC anymore...

 

[pilyin 10+ year member]

Hello 95BlackGA, thanks for the quick response, I am very happy to know I might get off easy, would you consider http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-00-NEW-HONDA-CIVIC-HIGH-OUTPUT-ALTERNATOR-160-AMPS_W0QQitemZ130247172890QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item130247172890&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245
A alright alternator?

Alterstart (the company that makes that alternator) did an alt for my Subaru Impreza and its worked perfectly. They got it out quick and were easy to get a hold of. Good guys, good business runners. You shouldn't have a problem with them. Just remember that the 150 (or whatever) amps is at 1.5k rpm (on your tach) or higher. The idle current wont be that high (with any alt).

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

Not to be argumentative, but our Subaru unit does 250 amps, with 150 amps at idle. (we even include a dyno sheet showing it's full output curve) That is because we custom machine a large case alternator to fit the Subaru, instead of overwinding a stock small case subaru unit, just FYI.

 

[bass-aholic 10+ year member]

Not to be argumentative, but our Subaru unit does 250 amps, with 150 amps at idle. (we even include a dyno sheet showing it's full output curve) That is because we custom machine a large case alternator to fit the Subaru, instead of overwinding a stock small case subaru unit, just FYI.

Thats cool and all but you should really respect people choices when they decide to buy from someone else.

OP check these out, i got mine here and its been working awesome.

http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators.html

 

[Ali1 10+ year member]

Mechman was just stating that this phrase

"The idle current wont be that high (with any alt)."

is incorrect considering the fact that some alternators do put out high numbers at idle such as Iraggi Amputator Series, Mechman, HO

 

[MECHMAN 10+ year member]

Mechman was just stating that this phrase
"The idle current wont be that high (with any alt)."

is incorrect considering the fact that some alternators do put out high numbers at idle such as Iraggi Amputator Series, Mechman, HO

That is what I meant. I can totally understand that everyone needs to operate within a given budget, I was merely pointing out that good low RPM output is not a physical impossibility.