Hifonics wiring

The main problem with CCA is that aluminum is more prone to corrosion and it is easier to break than pure copper. CCA also has up to ~25% less ampacity than copper conductors, depending on the temperature and application. But... electricity doesn't travel inside wire, it travels along the surface of the conductors. This is one reason why high current cable assemblies are made of stranded wires, because the more individual strands there are, the more surface area the cable has and thus, the higher the ampacity.

My personal opinion is that if you aren't a competitor seeking to draw ever single last possible milliamp of current out of your power supply... OFC is not necessary. I recommend 1/0 CCA for daily driving and I use 1/0 CCA in my daily driver. Previously I had one run of 4 gauge OFC on the sub amp and one run of 8 gauge OFC on the mid/high amp. I was also running 2 gauge copper for my big three and two group 27 deep cycle marine batteries under the hood. I changed all my power wiring to 1/0 cca and got the cops called on me when I was testing the system afterward. I've been in the same place for seven years, playing my system loud in my driveway often and when I upgraded cable, I did not change anything about the sound system.

That's why I was saying it's a good idea to run larger cable than you need. It will make your system sound like you've added larger amplifiers when you take all (as much as possible, actually) the stress off the alternator, battery(s) and amplifiers.

And look... if you stop and think about for a few minutes, would you put a 1200 HP engine in a car with the stock drive train? Some have... and they wipe out trannys, twist drive shafts off and break axles. Bottom line is that your electrical system is made to handle, at the most, a 1000 watt amp. You're adding 60% more horsepower to that system and anything less than a 60% stronger drive train is going to cause you problems in the future. Not to mention, it's going to rob your system of deebeeez immediately.

Sorry for the tangent but... needed to be said. :)

 
The main problem with CCA is that aluminum is more prone to corrosion and it is easier to break than pure copper. CCA also has up to ~25% less ampacity than copper conductors, depending on the temperature and application. But... electricity doesn't travel inside wire, it travels along the surface of the conductors. This is one reason why high current cable assemblies are made of stranded wires, because the more individual strands there are, the more surface area the cable has and thus, the higher the ampacity.
My personal opinion is that if you aren't a competitor seeking to draw ever single last possible milliamp of current out of your power supply... OFC is not necessary. I recommend 1/0 CCA for daily driving and I use 1/0 CCA in my daily driver. Previously I had one run of 4 gauge OFC on the sub amp and one run of 8 gauge OFC on the mid/high amp. I was also running 2 gauge copper for my big three and two group 27 deep cycle marine batteries under the hood. I changed all my power wiring to 1/0 cca and got the cops called on me when I was testing the system afterward. I've been in the same place for seven years, playing my system loud in my driveway often and when I upgraded cable, I did not change anything about the sound system.

That's why I was saying it's a good idea to run larger cable than you need. It will make your system sound like you've added larger amplifiers when you take all (as much as possible, actually) the stress off the alternator, battery(s) and amplifiers.

And look... if you stop and think about for a few minutes, would you put a 1200 HP engine in a car with the stock drive train? Some have... and they wipe out trannys, twist drive shafts off and break axles. Bottom line is that your electrical system is made to handle, at the most, a 1000 watt amp. You're adding 60% more horsepower to that system and anything less than a 60% stronger drive train is going to cause you problems in the future. Not to mention, it's going to rob your system of deebeeez immediately.

Sorry for the tangent but... needed to be said. :)
Where did you get your 2 gauge? I think I'll run 1/0 to a dist block then 2 and 4 gauge from there for each amp, I found a really nice block that has a voltmeter built in

 

---------- Post added at 03:06 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:05 PM ----------

 

As for the electrical I'll do the big three with a duralast platinum, i have a 136 amp alt stock on a v8

 
I got the 2 gauge from Earthquake Sound when I was a dealer for them 14 years ago. As for now, I got the 1/0 from Sky High. I also know a guy who uses the Audiopipe CCA, which is a little less expensive than the Sky High, unless you buy 50' from them. I also recently bought some ten gauge Audiopipe speaker wire and I'm not particularly happy with it. It's good looking wire but I can strip it with the 12 gauge slot on a pair of T-strippers, which proves it is not actually 10 gauge. That said, I haven't made a side by side comparison between AP and SH but I have had a good, close up look at the AP 1/0 and it does appear to be a full ½" in diameter.

That said, I can't speak to their 2 & 4 gauge stuff. Maybe it's only the speaker wire that's cheezy. But hey, if you're running 1600 watts and you buy some 1/0 cable that's only 7/16 in diameter, it isn't like you wont still be making a HUGE improvement over what you have now.

You get what you pay for but if you can still get more than you need and not pay full price, who cares? I'm all about practicality.

But wait... look what I just found...

Sky High 1/0 by the foot $2.31 per

Audiopipe 1/0 CCA by the foot $2.75 per

1/0 to 2 gauge reducer, $5.25

So, you can get 25' of 1/0 for $. A reducer for $5.25. Ten 1/0 terminals from Sky High for $14.24 (you'll need em). An ANL 250 amp fuse and holder for $6.30.

So... $83.54 to your door for a complete electrical upgrade. You can use what you need of the 1/0 for your amp run and ground (two terminals) and then use the rest for your big 3 upgrade. Two more terminal from alt to battery +. Two from Alt case to battery -. Two from battery - to frame and two more from battery - to body... for a total of ten 1/0 terminals. Oh and, for ground runs you can split the frame and body runs between the bettery - & alternator case to keep from having a huge pile of terminals on the battery.

Do that and you'll never have to worry about alternator whine (unless you have a bad piece of equip) or starved for power amplifiers.

 
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