Hifonics BRZ15D4 BRUTUS SUBWOOFER

I did a quick check of the JBL GTX500 and it only has a peak of 760 watts, my speaker is 600 rms so that will not do
Dude, you need to look up JBL amps on YouTube. They are underrated. I had it on my AMM-1 Amp dyno and it did 518WRms at 4 ohm and 717W Rms at 2ohm, not peak. And on music it put out 948. Your speaker will barely be able to handle the amp, not the other way around....

Not trying to sell you here, but honestly I don't think you know what your talking about.

 
I did a quick check of the JBL GTX500 and it only has a peak of 760 watts, my speaker is 600 rms so that will not do
never look at peak watts ever, its the most useless number in existence. Only go by RMS but in all honesty, companies lie about RMS ratings as well. Only a few companies actually make more power than rated and jbl is actually one of them.

Also its always better to have a much stronger amp than needed rather than an amp thats not strong enough. For a comparison think weak pc power supply with a strong graphics card = disaster. I'm actually willing to put money that that jbl amp is a lot stronger than that ppi amp due to much better high quality power supplies and its designed to produce the most power at 2 ohms vs the ppi which favors 1 ohm operation. The jbl brand and track record is several leagues above ppi in the car audio world. But its all up to you man just letting you know there's always more than meets the eye with equipment choices.

Your sub can only be wired to 2 or 8 ohms (higher ohms the less power you get)

 
never look at peak watts ever, its the most useless number in existence. Only go by RMS but in all honesty, companies lie about RMS ratings as well. Only a few companies actually make more power than rated and jbl is actually one of them.
Also its always better to have a much stronger amp than needed rather than an amp thats not strong enough. For a comparison think weak pc power supply with a strong graphics card = disaster. I'm actually willing to put money that that jbl amp is a lot stronger than that ppi amp due to much better high quality power supplies and its designed to produce the most power at 2 ohms vs the ppi which favors 1 ohm operation.

Your sub can only be wired to 2 or 8 ohms (higher ohms the less power you get)
I'm going to keep my money on the ppi, It seems like the safer option. I appreciate all tips and will keep the in consideration when I save up for another amp and tweeters, mids, etc. I'll come back to this exact form. Appreciate all the help!

 
I'm going to keep my money on the ppi, It seems like the safer option. I appreciate all tips and will keep the in consideration when I save up for another amp and tweeters, mids, etc. I'll come back to this exact form. Appreciate all the help!
yeah forgot since you are kinda new, the warranty might help cover possible damage that might occur if accidents happen in the install lol. make sure the positives and negatives never touch lol.

 
Watch ur local CL. I just picked up a kicker zx1000.1 for $100 two days ago and typically ***** is waaaay overpriced here. Got an mtx 9500 12 with the crappy sledgehammer box for 150 too. Was a temp setup after I pulled my big stuff to sell my ride. For 250 it's an ok substage. I could do something with a brutus 15, I was on team maxxsoincs a few years back, they're ok subs imo. Similar to a cvr maybe far as a known mainstream sub or an mtx 5500 or maybe 7500, rockford p2 maybe, should be able to get a musical setup into the low 140s with it in a decent build. I did 140s with a single 10 on a PG xenon x600.1 amp in the 30hz region out of a jetta trunk, full stock electrial not even big 3. In a box I originally built for a 4hp 12" tuned to like 28hz iirc. Dual layer all sides and port braced entire length. Might have some sh!tty vids if the setup somewhere but originally it was in roe (realm of excursion) which I haven't been on in years. Won at least one 1st place with that slapped together setup lol.

Anyway, I think I'd look used locally on CL. If not the AP mentioned or the cab1600 like mentioned are both nice and I'd toss a coin for either really. The AP amazon prime to HI would take it for me against paying $80 to ship a >$200 amp. But you wouldn't have to worry about that part. GL

 
Try looking at those new apps for your smart phone like OfferUp or LetGo. I've noticed some decent items for sale there. I actually purchased my Eclipse Aluminum sub from one of those apps. Couldn't be happier.

 
Try looking at those new apps for your smart phone like OfferUp or LetGo. I've noticed some decent items for sale there. I actually purchased my Eclipse Aluminum sub from one of those apps. Couldn't be happier.
there's an eclipse fs on cl here too lol..

 
keep in mind guys whatever you just said sounds like alien speech to him since he's a complete beginner and has no clue what or how good those brands are.
Where's the bad/ugly and good/budget/stay away from brand list at?!

 
Watch ur local CL. I just picked up a kicker zx1000.1 for $100 two days ago and typically ***** is waaaay overpriced here. Got an mtx 9500 12 with the crappy sledgehammer box for 150 too. Was a temp setup after I pulled my big stuff to sell my ride. For 250 it's an ok substage. I could do something with a brutus 15, I was on team maxxsoincs a few years back, they're ok subs imo. Similar to a cvr maybe far as a known mainstream sub or an mtx 5500 or maybe 7500, rockford p2 maybe, should be able to get a musical setup into the low 140s with it in a decent build. I did 140s with a single 10 on a PG xenon x600.1 amp in the 30hz region out of a jetta trunk, full stock electrial not even big 3. In a box I originally built for a 4hp 12" tuned to like 28hz iirc. Dual layer all sides and port braced entire length. Might have some sh!tty vids if the setup somewhere but originally it was in roe (realm of excursion) which I haven't been on in years. Won at least one 1st place with that slapped together setup lol.
Anyway, I think I'd look used locally on CL. If not the AP mentioned or the cab1600 like mentioned are both nice and I'd toss a coin for either really. The AP amazon prime to HI would take it for me against paying $80 to ship a >$200 amp. But you wouldn't have to worry about that part. GL
https://offerup.com/item/detail/346338470/?ref=OtherOffers

https://offerup.com/item/detail/190092035/?ref=Search

https://offerup.com/item/detail/346990622/?ref=Search

 
Where's the bad/ugly and good/budget/stay away from brand list at?!
I think we should create one.. Maybe one for each section (Amps, Subs, speakers, hu)

And you almost would have to list some brands as single line only. Like PPI Phantom line and Soundstream Tarantula Nano are lines I would recommend but brands I wouldnt

 
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