Help with raamat placement.

[teenycar 10+ year member]

So I got my raamat yesterday and today started deadening the rear doors for my components. So I am wondering how you would deal with the structural rib of steel that runs along the middle of the door from front to back. Do I just press down a strip of deadener to the rib? Does it need anything at all? Maybe a caulking or glue to bond the two together. Maybe a strip wide enough to go over the rib and connect the top and bottom sheets of raamat?

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[tylork92 10+ year member]

i would jsut cover it....dont need to mash it in i dnt think.

 

[ironchef b 10+ year member]

Just apply the mat directly to the rib area preferably with a roller. Also there's no need for any additional adhesive.

 

[RED3 10+ year member]

I did not "cover" the rib when I deadened my doors, just put the deadener on both top & bottom of the rib, have seen lots of pics from various installs on various forums that had it both ways, so, not sure if there is a "right" way to do it.

 

[teenycar 10+ year member]

Thanks for the replies. Here's where I am at so far. I put a second layer on the outer panel and put a layer on the inner panel. It seems pretty solid but I still hear noises/vibrations coming from the accessories like the rods and springs and such. Like where the rods hook up to the plastic swivel pieces that hook into the mechanisms. What are you guys doing about it? I have ensolite that I can put on some of the stuff but I'm at a loss on what to do for the rod connections. I will put an 8X8 piece of ensolite to the outer panel where the speaker faces and I will glue a piece over the inner panel before I put the trim panel on as well. I'm planning to get some perforated aluminum to cover the huge *** holes in the doors and will cover it with the raamat as well. Do the panels need any more deadener before I close up the holes? The outer panel seems solid just need to fix the accesories. Also what do you do about closing the huge holes when the rods go from inside to outside? I don't think I can completely cover the inner panel but will closing the majority of the hole help? I was able to use 1 large sheet for the outer panel but the inner panel I had to use patches. Makes it ugly but it will get covered with ensolite so I guess I won't worry about it. I'm just a little anal.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

If I were you, I'd fab an mdf or marine birch baffle for the speaker area and cover the gigantic hole towards the rear of the door with sheet metal.

Looks like a total PITA. Good luck with it...

 

[teenycar 10+ year member]

Is there another thread to which you are talking about when it comes to a mdf or marine birch baffle? I'll search around. I think a very thin guage perforated aluminum should bend up easy enough to conform to the odd shapes and give me a backing for the raamat. Not sure what to do for the speaker mount itself. The stock mount is made out of plastic, attaching in 3 points and off the sides of a big hole. I can't imagine a door worse than this at this point. Uggg...

 

[perfecxionX 10+ year member]

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=95925

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

Is there another thread to which you are talking about when it comes to a mdf or marine birch baffle? I'll search around. I think a very thin guage perforated aluminum should bend up easy enough to conform to the odd shapes and give me a backing for the raamat. Not sure what to do for the speaker mount itself. The stock mount is made out of plastic, attaching in 3 points and off the sides of a big hole. I can't imagine a door worse than this at this point. Uggg...

It's different in every vehicle, man. Yours is by far the worst I've seen. It's an absolute nightmare, really.

If I were in your situation, I'd use thin mdf or birch plywood to cover the entire area where the speaker mounts up. If the wood affects the mechanics of the door, you may have to move some of the parts around a little or simply trim the wood to fit. Any small gaps can be covered with deadener, so you'll have a little "wiggle" room to work with.

Use silicone and short self tapping screws to attach the wood to the door panel and cover the entire thing inside & out with sound deadener. You'll probably want to add a little bracing to the internal portion of the wood to add strength, but that should'nt be a problem either. If you do this, it'll at least seperate the front from the rear areas of the speaker.

The hole in the rear of the panel is a different entity altogether. Your idea of using aluminum sheeting is probably your best bet if you have something to properly bend the material. Like I said, good luck with it. I'm glad I'm not the guy working on it. I have very little patience for that type of work...

 

[teenycar 10+ year member]

Closed off the biggest hole today. I used perforated aluminum thin enough to mold to the crazy door.

Then I covered the inside and outside of the panel with raamat and screwed it to the door. Seems pretty solid.

I think I will cover the rods in some ensolite.

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

Not a bad idea at all.

Are you going to do anything about the massive hole around the speaker?

 

[teenycar 10+ year member]

I will be making something to cover that hole as well but it is going to require a bit more fabrication.

 

[hornedfrog1985 5,000+ posts]

Good work on the Aluminum. That is what I was told to do, and it sounds the easiest to me.

 

[TurdFergueson2 5,000+ posts]

Is there another thread to which you are talking about when it comes to a mdf or marine birch baffle? I'll search around. I think a very thin guage perforated aluminum should bend up easy enough to conform to the odd shapes and give me a backing for the raamat. Not sure what to do for the speaker mount itself. The stock mount is made out of plastic, attaching in 3 points and off the sides of a big hole. I can't imagine a door worse than this at this point. Uggg...

My doors

 

[teenycar 10+ year member]

Bawhahahah....glad to see someone else had to suffer. Maybe the picture is deceiving but at least you can cover the holes with flat panels. I'm gunna work on them some more tomarrow so hopefully have some updates to post.