help with excess power

no the car was already hooked completely up. i wouldnt say hes a conman i would say the seller didnt know shit about powering a system.

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Though he had impeccable taste in equipment. The Infinity Beta's, old school RF Punch's and round Solo's are all excellent "old school" equipment choices.

 
no the car was already hooked completely up. i wouldnt say hes a conman i would say the seller didnt know shit about powering a system.
well if hes blowing through bats and alt like that, there must be a problem. and i highly doubt the seller is dumb enough to actually think its the system.

 
alt is not dead.... he put in a stock alternator for the sale.... and 800cca battery. (I still have the 200 amp High performance one)Output goal was 2000 watts on this system... in reference to the alt, should I wind it down? how much does it cost to do something like that?... after all these helpful replies... i'm thinking I will wind down maybe to 140-160 amp keep normal battery underhood and buy two yellow tops for the system and see what happens...

 
alt is not dead.... he put in a stock alternator for the sale.... and 800cca battery. (I still have the 200 amp High performance one)Output goal was 2000 watts on this system... in reference to the alt, should I wind it down? how much does it cost to do something like that?... after all these helpful replies... i'm thinking I will wind down maybe to 140-160 amp keep normal battery underhood and buy two yellow tops for the system and see what happens...
dont wind down the alt. the alt is fine and it will not damage anything, so theres no point in winding it down. as for the system, where does the 2000watts come in. i need more info on this. what does each amp put out? and you did say that the bats would only last for 6 months. that leads me to believe there is a serious problem. theres no reason for the bats to die that quickly.

 
seriously, all that is necessary for your system is the current alternator, a nice battery under the hood (optima yellow top), and if you must an extra battery in the back, an extra battery never hurts, I run an extra battery with a stock alternator and I am pushing 1200 rms to my sub and 75 rms to all my speakers, so just keep it simple and do it like that, like squeak and skep said: your current alt and a nice battery under the hood and maybe an extra in the back is all you need, trust me...

 
Sounds like 90% of the electrical problems are caused by the multiple battery setup, if no isolator is used problems can result.

Read this-

http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=009326;p=

I think if you just remove the spare batterys you're problems will dissapear plus the added bonus of losing over 60pounds of dead weight.

BTW-"comps" mean components as in component speakers (mids and tweets).

 
very imformative thread ... thanks, now you suggested taking all extra batteries out... so... yellow top under the hood... keep 200 amp alternator and thats it... from the pics did you see if I have an isolator? and sorry but did you also recommend capacitors?

 
I couldn't tell if there was an isolator by the pics but from the battery troubles you describe the lack of one is probably the cause.

As for capacitors they make a small difference in the transient responce of the sub amps, this difference is very small and most people don't even notice it but if they are already wired in there you might as well leave em, it won't hurt anything as caps draw zero current when not in use so they wont kill you're battery when you park the car for the night.

If there isn't any caps in there, don't bother putting any in. As I said they make a very small difference and are generally not worth the money.

 
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