Help select 6.5" 2 way components for $300

[jacka 10+ year member]

if you want cdt's, i suggest the hd-62, you can get them for around 320 from djdilliodon, i'd suggest rainbows SLCs, save yourself some money.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

if you want cdt's, i suggest the hd-62, you can get them for around 320 from djdilliodon, i'd suggest rainbows SLCs, save yourself some money.

^^ I like this guy. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

Ya I like the idea of these Rainbows. I also like the idea of going Germanium. These this look sweet! Instead of saving some money, I should save more money. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

Anyhow I'm one of those hopless believers in rear fill and wanted a complete surround sound stage at will. Alot of people talk about only front stage if you want to satisfy yourself. Some feel the addition of rear fill will help thier passangers enojoy the tunes. I wanted to propose the idea of sticking it to society.

My coupe days are over and my sedan has the urge to open the rear windows and reach out to everyone else sharing the roads. I have the ability to shut down channels from my head so If I didn't want the rear fill at the time then *poof* its gone. I could run just the front stage and subs, when I get em, and blow my ears out. But If I had some friends in for a road trip, or if I get a monitor to play movies in dash, the rear fill might be useful. Or if I wanted to peev all the mommies and daddies off sitting in traffic beside me.

Anyhow right now I'm leaning to the following for front stage.

Rainbow Germaniums after saving some more cash. 6

Diamond HEX soft domed

Focal polyglass

What are the benefits and disadvantages of 3-way comps against 2-ways? Should I be thinging 3-way. I'm about to throw out the stock all togeather. So much for not fixing something that isn't broke.

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

2-Way vs. 3-Way

In a perfect world, we'd have a single speaker that could reproduce all frequencies perfectly, 20hz to 20khz. Unfortunately for us, such speaker does not exist…..so, we need to break the frequency spectrum down and play it through multiple speakers (mids, tweeters, subs, etc). This is where we get "2-ways, 3-ways, 5-ways, etc" from.

In co-axials, a 2-way speaker is a speaker that contains only a midwoofer and a tweeter…..the midwoofer playing the lower frequencies (down to around 80hz or so), the tweeter playing the higher frequencies (around 3khz or 4khz and up). 3-way co-axials typically have a midwoofer, tweeter and "supertweeter", with the supertweeter being designated to handle the very, very high frequencies only. Co-axials can go as high as 5-way (midwoofer, midrange, smaller midrange, tweeter and supertweeter). For all intents and purposes, anything more than 2-way in co-axials is a marketing gimmick. Going with 3-way co-axials or higher usually does not increase performance much, if at all.

For component speakers, a 3-way system includes a dedicated midbass (generally plays around 60hz-350hz), a dedicated midrange (generally plays around 350hz-6500hz or so), and a tweeter (generally 6500hz and up). Whereas a 2-way system is only a midwoofer (playing around 60hz-4000hz or so) and a tweeter (4000hz and up). Ideally, for a 3-way system, you'd want to put the midbass in your door, and have kicks built for the midrange & tweeter. For a 2-way component set, kickpanels or door mounting will suffice with generally good results.

General advantages of a 3-way component set:

1) There isn't a crossover point in the middle of the midrange frequencies (which are generally the most important to imaging and tonality), and they aren't being split up between drivers like they sometimes are in a 2-way setup. In a 3-way, they will be played by mainly one speaker, which is the dedicated midrange.

2) In a lot of cars, the mids will need to be flipped out of phase to help correct some midrange frequency phasing problems. In a 2-way system where one speaker plays midrange & midbass, running one of them out of phase will decrease the midbass impact. By running a 3-way, the midrange can be flipped out of phase and it has no effect on the midbass since it is being played by a separate driver.

3) The midrange and midbass frequencies in a 3-way may sound "cleaner" since each speaker has more of a limited bandwidth to play.

Disadvantages of a 3-way component set:

1) Tuning and aiming the speakers can be a much bigger pain the *** with 3-ways. Installation, tuning, phasing and aiming speakers will be much easier/quicker to perfect with 2-ways.

2) Room. It can be much more difficult find the room to fit all of the speakers. In some cars, kickpanels are simply out of the question.

3) Money. 3-ways are normally considerably more expensive than 2-ways.

As you can see, 3-ways aren't necessarily better than 2-way. It's more of a personal preference. Some ppl would rather have a 3-way (for the advantages above), some ppl would rather have a 2-way (easier to tune, less room is occupied, etc).

The speaker FAQ. Ingenious thread.

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

Very good information. Thankyou.

Seems that if you have the money and the room then only setting the 3-ways up positionally will be the biggest task. I have a 2006 Altima and the midbass would have to go into the door. Now there are stock locations for a tweeter about half-way up the door pillar (the one between the front window and the door itself), *such a newb*. Would it seem resonable to place the 3-way tweeter there while building a kick for the midrange only or should I keep those two togeather?

I hate to start throwing curveballs at everyone who has been very helpful so far but I have to consider another option. Changing gears from 2-ways to 3-ways, keeping me in the $500 or lower range for 3-way components, where should I look?

JL Audio XR Series 653 CSi $350

 

[OnYrMrk 10+ year member]

From the modified list, I would choose the Diamond Hex series first, then the Rainbow Germs (price wise), but IMO, the Polyglass comps aren't in the same category as these. If anything the 165KP's...the KF's are good, better than the polyglass, but the tweeter is the TN47 and it is Shrill, the KP's have the new TN52 and that tweeter is much, much better. Same tweeter in my K3P's.

 

[konechiwa 10+ year member]

you could get the Rainbow SLC 365 Kick, which i think is about 400 bucks.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

From the modified list, I would choose the Diamond Hex series first, then the Rainbow Germs (price wise), but IMO, the Polyglass comps aren't in the same category as these. If anything the 165KP's...the KF's are good, better than the polyglass, but the tweeter is the TN47 and it is Shrill, the KP's have the new TN52 and that tweeter is much, much better. Same tweeter in my K3P's.

I would put the HEXs in dead last. Their recent decline in product quality earns them that rank. If we're comparing prices, please base it fairly. As you put the HEXs ahead of the Germs "price wise" When both of them share comparible SRP.

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

Thanks for the honesty 6spd, I read in another thread that since the company Eaton stopped making the HEX line of Diamond they have slipped a bit. I know your biased toward Rainbows but who can blame you to throw props to what seems to be the hottest thing on the market.

The SLC 365 KICK @ $400 is the best recommendation I've heard yet but I have two questions.

1) What set-up will have them function at thier best? Can I put the midbass in the door, tweet in the door pillar and the midrange alone in the kick for above average results? That would be my most resonable set-up for my ride.

2) "**System has to be used with an 80 Hz (12 dB/Oct.) high pass!

System needs approximately 10 hours running in time for optimal sound reproduction." I understand the second part of this statement, break-in time. But the 80hz high pass, does this come with it? Where to get it and how to hook it up (newb)?

Of course my rear fill need against most saying no! The SLC 265 in the rear deck? $229

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

Thanks for the honesty 6spd, I read in another thread that since the company Eaton stopped making the HEX line of Diamond they have slipped a bit. I know your biased toward Rainbows but who can blame you to throw props to what seems to be the hottest thing on the market.
The SLC 365 KICK @ $400 is the best recommendation I've heard yet but I have two questions.

1) What set-up will have them function at thier best? Can I put the midbass in the door, tweet in the door pillar and the midrange alone in the kick for above average results? That would be my most resonable set-up for my ride.

2) "**System has to be used with an 80 Hz (12 dB/Oct.) high pass!

System needs approximately 10 hours running in time for optimal sound reproduction." I understand the second part of this statement, break-in time. But the 80hz high pass, does this come with it? Where to get it and how to hook it up (newb)?

Of course my rear fill need against most saying no! The SLC 265 in the rear deck? $229

Its Eton*, they only made the midbasses, the tweets were LPGs.

Im not biased due to being a dealer for Rainbow. As I also carry and stock Diamond among various others..Morel,Dynaudio,Arc,DLS,etc..

1) that would work fine. I know the 3rd gen altis quite well. Ive worked on several and my wifed owned one for a few years.

2) That would be driven/controlled from your HU or Amp.

If you must have rear fill, a simple set of coaxs will suffice. No need to drop $230 on a set of comps.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

Where on the East coast are you?

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

I guess I'm not really on the coast line. A little bit more inland. I live in the South Hills of Pittsburgh.

Since you know the Alty fairly good do you think the SLC 365 KICK or the GERMANIUMS are the way to go? You can see I'm willing to dump a little money here and the differance would be about $50.

What type of issues may I run into with depth of the midbass in the stock door location? And what are the size of the front door speakers. By the looks of the grille on the outside of the door they look 5 1/2 but I'm sure I'll find a 6 1/2 inside. No biggie either way, I can build and install my own baffle but its depth that worries me. A friend and I noticed that the doors are a bit on the thin side.

Lastly, what model coaxle would do the think? Of course I'd like to stay brand worthy thru and thru.

Anyone else wanna put up a fight against the Rainbows. I know this thread started off as 2-ways for $300 but It's gone to about $550 - $600 for 2 or 3 way front comps and a rear coax.

 

[6spdcoupe 5,000+ posts]

I guess I'm not really on the coast line. A little bit more inland. I live in the South Hills of Pittsburgh.
Since you know the Alty fairly good do you think the SLC 365 KICK or the GERMANIUMS are the way to go? You can see I'm willing to dump a little money here and the differance would be about $50.

What type of issues may I run into with depth of the midbass in the stock door location? And what are the size of the front door speakers. By the looks of the grille on the outside of the door they look 5 1/2 but I'm sure I'll find a 6 1/2 inside. No biggie either way, I can build and install my own baffle but its depth that worries me. A friend and I noticed that the doors are a bit on the thin side.

Lastly, what model coaxle would do the think? Of course I'd like to stay brand worthy thru and thru.

Anyone else wanna put up a fight against the Rainbows. I know this thread started off as 2-ways for $300 but It's gone to about $550 - $600 for 2 or 3 way front comps and a rear coax.

Theres tons of choices within your price range, but two way and three way is what it would need to be narrowed down to before proceeding.

The stock door front and rear are 6.5s, Although Ive been able to fit 8s in there with monor modifications. Suprisingly the Altis are very well sealed on the door panel/skin area. The only hole in there is for the midbass driver, all else is sealed. So a big plus already.

SL or KX 165s would fit nicely, but would depend on what your powering them with.

To narrow down choices a bit..

what are your musical preferences?

Do you typically play loud?

What amp(s) will you be using?

Im guessing youll be running passive?

 

[theothermike 10+ year member]

id say go powerline cmx rainbows and then a decent pair of rears. Do u plan to run a sub, if not i suggest some 6x9's for some lows and decent mids.

Uhhh or you could go germaniums 2 ways with a 2nd woofer in the rear spot?

Mike

 

[IronCityGuy 10+ year member]

To narrow down choices a bit..what are your musical preferences?

Do you typically play loud?

What amp(s) will you be using?

Im guessing youll be running passive?

I listen to hip hop mostly.. OutKast, Gnarls Barley as of late. I have a wide range of taste from Rage against the Machine to Incubus. SUBLIME might be the greatest band of my day. I think if I had to select a type of music to hone my speakers to it would be a jazzy hip-hop where the instruments can be bright but not too bright. I like to feel the incorporated drums but don't want the lows to overcome the mids and highs.

I play my music at an above average level. Normally I miss calls on the mobile. Man I need a BlueTooth HU.

I think if I run Both stages the I'll be trading the JL 300.2 to a JL 300.4. The 300.4 should put out 75RMS per channel X4 and has fully-variable (50 Hz-5 KHz), selectable-slope LP or HP (12 or 24 dB per octave). I'll just have to turn the gains lower on the rear stage. I'll have a dedicated JL 500.1 for the sub when I add on.

Crossing the set-up over is where I start to loose knowhow. I'm good to fiberglass, run and connect all the wires but understanding crossovers is kinda a blurr. I have an extra battery to run in the trunk (Yellowtop Optima).

id say go powerline cmx rainbows and then a decent pair of rears. Do u plan to run a sub, if not i suggest some 6x9's for some lows and decent mids.
Uhhh or you could go germaniums 2 ways with a 2nd woofer in the rear spot?

Mike

I will be running a sub eventually and will have the ability to shut down any channel from the HU. But I would think that a 2 or 3-way for the front and a coax in the rear(prolly around a 6.5") should give me a wide range of frequencies. It better for the $600 or so I spend on just speakers. I just expect to be a little short on the

Fix me up 6 you got me on a roll! Hate to have you crunch the numbers for me but I see a Rainbow in my future. Or two for that matter. I'm headin up the lake thru the fourth so I'll get back with ya when I return.

HAPPY 4TH! ENJOY YOUR INDEPENDENCE