Help need to know y my lights are dimming

Must have been a VERY shitty stock electrical or something was just wrong..... but any dimming ive ever seen with
There have been people running 2500+ watts off a STOCK alt with just batteries and big 3 with virtually NO dimming, so how does that make sense if u say batteries dont "work"?? not trying to be an *** by saying that, I just don't see how you can take your situation and apply it to everyones.
None of those amps were hooked up to my stock electrical, and I have seen plenty of threads on here with people running around 1K and complaining about dimming. I have also seen people "Claim" to be running 2500w off of their stock systems, I find it very hard to believe that.

 
The big three is:
Replacing the wires that run from your battery to your alternator; negative wire from the battery to the vehicle chasis; power wire that runs from your battery to your starter. The wire will vary in price from $1.75-$4.00 per foot. You will need around 15' total.
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif:confused://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
None of those amps were hooked up to my stock electrical, and I have seen plenty of threads on here with people running around 1K and complaining about dimming. I have also seen people "Claim" to be running 2500w off of their stock systems, I find it very hard to believe that.
My friend was running my orion 2500d on a stock alt in a 4 runner with a yellow top up front and a yellow top in the back with big 3 in 1/0 and was getting no dimming witht he volume low-medium and slight dimming on high volume

And I had very bad dimming with about only 650-750 watts in my old car (phoenix gold x600.1), replaced the battery and added a way better amp ground and it was gone. the stock battery was old anyways

 
while u guys are here i wanna ask u a ?

I want to upgrade my subs i have 2 12' Kicker CVRS

should i go with 2 L5s 12'

1 L7 12'

or just keep the CVRS because it wont really make a difference

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif:confused://content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rotflol.gif.b453361716769b8110ddefc85ff03cd2.gif I should sig myself for that one.

 
benjamin with your lights pulsing to the music one cheap strobe kit //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
If I didn't know any better, maybe......//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
while u guys are here i wanna ask u a ? I want to upgrade my subs i have 2 12' Kicker CVRS

should i go with 2 L5s 12'

1 L7 12'

or just keep the CVRS because it wont really make a difference
Well they are different subs so it would make a difference, but they are both mostly SPL with relatively no sq (in the average box, of course. I know some of you will swear yours sound great). The big difference would be the L5's are square versus the round cvr's, so the surface area of the L5's would be obviously bigger given a 12" square sub vs a 12" round sub. Also the xmax in an L5 is bigger I believe, so you would have more linear displacement.

Dumbing it down a couple notches, 2 L5 12's would be louder than 2 CVR 12's given the same power and a proper enclosure. Other factors come into play as well, but thats as simple as I can put it.

 
My bet is that his stock electrical system isn't the greatest.

I'm running all 3 amps in my sig, on the stock 90amp alt and an Autozone battery, my lights never dim.

 
bk12321:

After taking a quick look at my wiring, I noticed, that there is a wire running from my starter from the positive terminal on the battery. It has also been done in the 0 gauge. When I replaced that wiring for the big three, I did that also.

So, I don't feel like such a jackass now, as I do have a positive wire running from the battery to the starter as all cars should, but I just upgraded it also.

 
bk12321:
After taking a quick look at my wiring, I noticed, that there is a wire running from my starter from the positive terminal on the battery. It has also been done in the 0 gauge. When I replaced that wiring for the big three, I did that also.

So, I don't feel like such a jackass now, as I do have a positive wire running from the battery to the starter as all cars should, but I just upgraded it also.
I dunno I dont really see what difference that would have but im no genius with cars... im just into electricals

I know the 3 things that you actually want to do, if nothing else, which I said earlier.

So let me get this straight, you have the big 3 + starter to batt pos, or just 2 + starter to batt pos, because that ight explain why u still get a lot of dimming.

you have to do all 3 to get the full effect, all 3 being batt pos to alt pos, batt neg to chassis ground, and engine block to chassis ground.

if you have all 3 done just ignore what i just said, im just clarifying

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

arod422

10+ year member
Junior Member
Thread starter
arod422
Joined
Location
ny
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
36
Views
1,766
Last reply date
Last reply from
bk12321
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top