Help me upgrade

[Fastphill]

Currently running 2x soundstream reference r2.122 12 inch subs in a vt built ported box

I'm thinking about swaping in 2 sqbed edc3 12s

Or going with a single re xx12 or an Orion hcca of course in a new box

Are there better 12 inch subs in the sub 500$ range

Will one of the mentioned single 12s perform as good as my current 2 12 subs do

I already have the big 3 with 1/0 power wire run

My current budget set up pounds and I want more?

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[mastershake575 10+ year member]

What is your car, what electrical upgrades have you made, and what amplifier are you running ? We don't know how much power your amp has and we don't know how much power your car can physically produce.

There's no point in buying 3000 watts RMS worth of subs (you mentioned a pair of HDC3 12s) if your car can't even physically produce 1000 watts of current

Don't know anything about VT boxes (usually you want to skip brand name boxes and either build one yourself or have a personal build it by hand). The box is the single biggest factor in output/sound quality (it's worth investing alot of money into to get it right).

You need to stop buying these mediocre brands (Orion, soundstream, RE) and start looking at real subwoofers (SSA, Fi, Sundown, Incriminator, DC). Here's a good start Subs - SSA STORE

 

[Fastphill]

Nissan Sentra trunk

Big 3 done on 120 amp alternator

1/0 guage wire front to back

Vt is a custom made box made to fit my truck space tuned to 32

My current amp is a soundstream t3000.1

My current set up was purely a beginner level set up

No lecture needed if I had the knowledge I would not be asking for help

I'm looking to upgrade to a real decent set up

Sub or subs 500 $ range

Amp if needed will be upgraded as well

Box to if I go with a single sub

I'm a newb to this all I have no idea what a quality set up consist of

The more I search and read up the more confused I get

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

Amp is actually one of the few soundstreams that is decent (the TA 3000.1 from what i've been told does a little over 2000 watts). Your electrical won't be able to generate 2000 watts so you won't be pushing the amp at all.

If you like your box then these are three examples of some good subs (with a 120A alternator I would try to get some subs that will run good on 500-700 watts each).

FU Car Audio, fu audio, fu car audio

GCON-12 Sound Solutions Audio 12" 750W GCON Series Subwoofer - SSA STORE

Sundown Audio SA-12 600 watt sub woofer

 

[Fastphill]

What needs to be done on my electrical end to get it up to par I have no issue upgrading alternator and adding a 2nd battery?

I would rely like to get into the 1500/2000 watt range

I want to do it right this time with no short cuts

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

A good aftermarket alternator and an AGM battery under the hood is a good option for 2,500-3,000 watt systems

The aftermarket alternator is the biggest factor for sure. 120A alternator might only have 70-80 amps left after the car takes what it needs to run and then you lose even more amps while the car is in idle.

I paid $450 for my alternator from Singer Alternators and it was worth every penny (does just under 200 amps at idle and 270 while driving).

If my Honda needs 30 amps to run then that's hardly an issue (plenty amps to spare). On a stock alt you don't have that luxury (your already limited from the start).

 

[Fastphill]

Ok thanks for the info I have a local alternator shop that said he could rebuild my stock one and make it a high out put 200/225 amps he said so I will start there

I do appreciate the help

 

[mastershake575 10+ year member]

Ok thanks for the info I have a local alternator shop that said he could rebuild my stock one and make it a high out put 200/225 amps he said so I will start there I do appreciate the help

I've heard very mixed things about local rebuilds (poor reliability and mediocre amperage at idle are big concerns with stock rebuilds).
I personally would pay the couple hundred extra and get something from Singer or DC