Help Me Please

Hades2004
10+ year member

Underworld Master
I bought my power wire and all that stuff for my amps today. I got it installed and only lasted 2 minutes. My battery went dead. The car was even started. I have a 83 amp alt and a 450 amp battery LOL. Could I buy a cap instead of buying either a amp or battery? Any suggestions?

 
I bought my power wire and all that stuff for my amps today. I got it installed and only lasted 2 minutes. My battery went dead. The car was even started. I have a 83 amp alt and a 450 amp battery LOL. Could I buy a cap instead of buying either a amp or battery? Any suggestions?
The answer is NO! Buying a cap does not solve problems. If your battery lasted 2 minutes, you have a big problem. Please state what exactly happened. It doesn't sound right....Your batt. went dead with the car running??!!

 
I hooked it all up and the subs weren't even giving any bass, just a little tho. And also today when I everything hooked up, my 6x9's weren't even pounding, like they were yesterday. Playing for 2 minutes and everything went dead. Then I just turned it the key a little ways, so I can get some power to get my CD out, and after it closed the power died again. So I have no idea what the problem is.

 
I bought my power wire and all that stuff for my amps today. I got it installed and only lasted 2 minutes. My battery went dead. The car was even started. I have a 83 amp alt and a 450 amp battery LOL. Could I buy a cap instead of buying either a amp or battery? Any suggestions?

Sounds like you have a short in your power wire. check your power wire for nicks or cuts it may be touching the chasis in which will drain your battery.

 
sure sounds like a classic case of "my power wire is grounded and my battery just drained itself"

do you ahve a fuse between your battery and the power wire within 18" of your battery terminal? if you do - it should have blown.

try this - get a digital multimeter, unplug the power wire from the battery AND the amp, and set the ends somewhere so they arent touching any metal. then set your multimeter to detect a complete circut with that horriffic beeping noise, and touch one end of the wire, and a ground point.

if it beeps. your ****in wire is grounded somewhere in the car. and thats bad. your lucky your car didnt melt to the ground in a smeltering ball of flames, then exploding from the gastank.

if not. its somthing else. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
This car isnt's very old. It's only a 2003. I'm not the one that hooked everything up, it was my uncle and he's really good with this kinda stuff. He's been doing it for almost 20 years now. I also checked the power wire for nicks and that and nothing. Also I have a fused distubriton block. The place I got it from said I don't have to put it right by the battery. They said just put it in your trunk and it will work fine. I have 80 amp fuses in it. And the reason by I have a fused distubriton block is cause I have 2 MRD-M501's connected to 2 SWR-1221D. This may help. I didn't put my power wire through the firewall cause I just wanted to test how it would work, so all I did was, had it through the car, opened the driver door and just had the wire go through there cause I still gotta drill holes in the firewall for it to go through. Could that had been the problem cause the wire was touching the drivers door and the body of the car too. While I was saying all this my uncle was outside using that mulitmeter and he said there were no beeps. Maybe I fried my alt.

 
that could definatly be the problem.

since the wire wasnt really installed, chances are the shielding wasnt cut or grounded. but you DO need a fuse within 18" of the battery, because you are only fusing the last two wires (prolly 8 or 4 guage) that go to your amps from the fuse block, that entire run of wire from the battery to the fuse block is NOT PROTECTED, and this is the most dangerours wire. it absolutly NEEDS a fuse. if this wire melts due to over-draw, then it could ground under your carpet (because the shielding melts) and start a afire under your carpet.

definatly bring the alternator to autozone and have it tested.

http://www.motorcitysuperstore.com has good alts for a good price.

 
Where I live, it's hard to find stuff like this cars cause it's only a small town of 15000 people. It's 4 gauge wiring. And for going to an Autozone, the closest is probably 8 hours away from here. The only place that carries automotive stuff is Canadian Tire and they didn't even have an alt for a 2003 Dodge SX 2.0 R/T. I even went to the Dodge Dealership here and they only carry 83 amp alts and thats what I have in my car. It really sucks. I'm thinking of just selling my 2 MRD-M501 and both SWR-1221D, if I can't find anything for it and just keep my SPR-176A and SPR-694A and CDA-9833. And I just looked at that site and they only ship to the US and I live in Canada.

 
There are Canadian dealers like me that can help you as well. We are normally found on a couple of industry and Canadian sites like http://www.the12volt.com and http://www.canadiancaraudio.com

I recommend you post on the first site in the general audio section and you will be surprised to see how many Canadians are there, including the main member who owns the site who just happens to live in..... Manitoba.

 
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Hades2004

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