Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

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That particular sub will get louder after a breakin period (some subs do not), the spider is very stiff when brand new and will kill the subs sensitivity, if you allow a few weeks of regular use the sub will gradually sound better and finally start to kick ***.To accelerate this process and get better sound from the right from the start, use a ported enclosure from the start then switch to a sealed later if you want.

Another option is to run a 20hz tone through the sub overnight(12hours), take it out of the box and run it free air (keep the coil vent unblocked), hook it up to any amp that will handle the ohms and just turn it up loud enough to get the sub moving close to Xmech, not alot of power is needed to get the sub moving because its not in an enclosure. The fibers in the spider will break down at an accelerated rate and soften it up.
Hmmm. ..I personally thought the sub had a softer suspension in it. The sub dosnt really require a break in period either.

 
yeah exactly like that. I soldered a wire to the negative, and one to the positive wire so i now have 4 wires inside my box, and i connected the two positives and the two negatives, seems pretty easy and simple.
Just for reference,

Does it look like this?

1_2ohmDVC_1ohm.gif


Or a little more like this?

DVC_Parallel_1.gif


I had to figure this one out for a kid a while ago. The RF is right but its also midleading I find. If you really dont know anything you my jump a - to a +, instead of criss crossing them, and going + to a +.

 
He is sending his 1200 watts
Yes, he is, that is why the recommended box size is smaller for more power, so the sub can stay within it's designed limits of movement.

Check the specs here:

Straight from the horses mouth

Lots of bad info around here. A larger box doesn't necessarily mean better sound people! It translates to better low end response with less power handling, and less upper end extension. This is exactly why a smaller box would sound better on the power he's running.

We are talking about a 12" woofer right? I never saw whether it was the 12 or the 15", I'm just assuming it's the 12 with a 1 cu ft box. If we are talking about the 15" woofer, than he surely needs a larger box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
well you have an RL-P, did yours have to break in, and sound like shit when you first got it?
my rl-p didnt have to be broken in. i set my amp up and it wanged outta the box. of course i was scared at first cuz the amp was set wrong so i took it upon myself to set it correctly. u need to get a pic of the settings and we can help u. I KNOW ITS THE SETTINGS OF THE AMP

 
Yes, he is, that is why the recommended box size is smaller for more power, so the sub can stay within it's designed limits of movement.
Check the specs here:

Straight from the horses mouth

Lots of bad info around here. A larger box doesn't necessarily mean better sound people! It translates to better low end response with less power handling, and less upper end extension. This is exactly why a smaller box would sound better on the power he's running.

We are talking about a 12" woofer right? I never saw whether it was the 12 or the 15", I'm just assuming it's the 12 with a 1 cu ft box. If we are talking about the 15" woofer, than he surely needs a larger box //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

my rl-p 15 only has 1.5 cubes. it bangs like crazy.

 
Lots of bad info around here. A larger box doesn't necessarily mean better sound people! It translates to better low end response with less power handling, and less upper end extension. This is exactly why a smaller box would sound better on the power he's running.
Not necessarily sound better, But it will be able to control the subs suspension a bit better. Ever think he could build a bigger box then set the gains around 600 watts???

I say this whole problem is an install issue. Wiring, settings... maybe box build.

 
ok. On another note, how can i make sure that my sub is wired in at 1ohm and not 4 ohms? My amplifier has 2 sets of speaker terminals on it even though its a 1 channel amp. Both terminals are apparantly internally bridged.
use the two terminals (+ and - ) farthest from the edge of the amp. closest to the middle. if u get what im saying. thats what im doin and it works awsome.

 
Just for reference,
Does it look like this?

1_2ohmDVC_1ohm.gif


Or a little more like this?

DVC_Parallel_1.gif


I had to figure this one out for a kid a while ago. The RF is right but its also midleading I find. If you really dont know anything you my jump a - to a +, instead of criss crossing them, and going + to a +.

I think this is it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
Ahh theres so many pages on this crap thread. Is his woofer moving hard but not making much sound or hardly any?
Lots of movment, sub is being pushed right to limits, tones are way off, sensitivity is very low.

Kind of like what what happens when you have alot of cancellation.

Wait..How is the sub set up in the car? is the woofer facing the back seat or the bumper?, woofer placment in a vehicle can make a night and day difference.

 
Not necessarily sound better, But it will be able to control the subs suspension a bit better. Ever think he could build a bigger box then set the gains around 600 watts???
I say this whole problem is an install issue. Wiring, settings... maybe box build.
I agree.

Check that master/slave switch lol!

 
Lots of movment, sub is being pushed right to limits, tones are way off, sensitivity is very low.Kind of like what what happens when you have alot of cancellation.

Wait..How is the sub set up in the car? is the woofer facing the back seat or the bumper?, woofer placment in a vehicle can make a night and day difference.
Shouldnt make any difference.

if the amp is set for around 80hz and the gain is anywhere from 1/4 -3/4 the sub should be moving plenty and making of bass.

As long as the amp isnt blown this is most likly a wiring issue. Sub placement should not affect sound even close to this much.

 
Ahh theres so many pages on this crap thread. Is his woofer moving hard but not making much sound or hardly any?
No its wanging, but it doesn't sound anywhere near close to 1200 watts, it souds alot like my old 250 watt sub. PLus i have to turn the gain up dangerously high to get sound from it.

 
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