Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

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Remember one other thing about your old infinity, they are super efficient and don't need a whole lot of power to get going so thats one reason for that, but i agree on a break in period for it. Although i'm not up to date on your sub, i had a pair of RF HX2's and they were super-tight. Was supposed to take 2 weeks or more to break in on lots of power, and when i turned them up a bit, they "popped" due to the spider and such.....Believe it or not, the rep told me to "hook them up to the wall" for a few short bursts and they would be ready to go. If you're not very experienced i wouldn't recommend this, but it did work on the HX2's... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/up2something.gif.dd110ecf3ae4b76050d87598f2f8de7c.gif

My $.02

 
So its not wiring related, and its not a defective amplifier or sub issue, so its either my car is not putting enough power to make the sub hit hard, or its not broken it. Or it might be some stupid problem like a loose wire somewhere in my car. This shit sucks. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
I say put it in a ported box, and give it the grace period to break in and you will love it. Give one of these box designers on here your max dimensions for a box and they will figure out what you can fit back there. I would suggest having it tuned 30-35hz

 
I say put it in a ported box, and give it the grace period to break in and you will love it. Give one of these box designers on here your max dimensions for a box and they will figure out what you can fit back there. I would suggest having it tuned 30-35hz
well you have an RL-P, did yours have to break in, and sound like shit when you first got it?

 
Or try the ghetto port and seal the hole back up with a piece of MDF after a couple weeks, unless you really like it that way.

Just a 1 inch diameter hole in the side.

Not pretty, but cheap and effective.

 
LS1 what is your amp x over and subsonic set at?
Subsonic is set as low as it goes, and the amp xover is set at like 120 or so, HU is set at 80. On my amp there is no off switch for the X over, so i dunno how to shut it off on the amp.

 
Or try the ghetto port and seal the hole back up with a piece of MDF after a couple weeks, unless you really like it that way.Just a 1 inch diameter hole in the side.

Not pretty, but cheap and effective.
well, how i have the box right now you can barely even see it, so i don't give a crap how it looks, i just want it to sound good. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif If you are positive the 1 inch hole won't screw the box up, i may try that, but i will have to do more research first before i start butchering my box.

 
I would write off power or wiring issues, I doubt you have any problems there, what sucks is this sub of yours has a lot of potential and wouldn't have such positive reviews if it didn't, plenty of people run a lot of equipment off stock alts and 1 battery and get plenty loud, a friend of mine is running my 2 old 15" SX's powered by a PA3000DB off of a stock alt and 1 battery and his setup bangs like no tommorow, so I'd rule out the power issues

 
I would write off power or wiring issues, I doubt you have any problems there, what sucks is this sub of yours has a lot of potential and wouldn't have such positive reviews if it didn't, plenty of people run a lot of equipment off stock alts and 1 battery and get plenty loud, a friend of mine is running my 2 old 15" SX's powered by a PA3000DB off of a stock alt and 1 battery and his setup bangs like no tommorow, so I'd rule out the power issues
yeah i know its not the sub that sucks, the sub is insanely good from the reviews, and even today when i turned the gain up very high, the SPL coming from the sub was almost unbearable, but do to the gain being so high it didn't sound good at all.

 
I did notice some crazy headlight dimming and guage cluster light diming though, and my battery meter did dip around alot when bass hit, but never lower than like 12.5.

 
I know nothing about the sub except I'd like to pick one up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. Did you set your gain with a dmm. Are you sure it has proper voltage to it from the battery, as well as rcas. Can't be of much help don't know specs on either and have 0 experience with em. I say check your gain and if it still sux, bump it free air for a while like mentioned.

 
Well I remember when I had my 2000SPL's in a sealed box. Now I know these subs don't compare at all... but I was sending 800 watts to a single one in a 1.00 cu.ft sealed box and I honestly could not hear the **** thing. With two sealed it sounded halfway decent.

Then I ported them and one was louder than both of them sealed with half the power... box made a world of difference.

Also, my particular subs did have noticabally improved SQ after I played them for about 2 weeks.

I would definitely let it break in first, as other users point out they need to be broken in, and then port it tuned low.

 
I know nothing about the sub except I'd like to pick one up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif. Did you set your gain with a dmm. Are you sure it has proper voltage to it from the battery, as well as rcas. Can't be of much help don't know specs on either and have 0 experience with em. I say check your gain and if it still sux, bump it free air for a while like mentioned.

Nope, just set the gain until the sub level sounded right to me. I had it at like 1/4 volume, and the sub was barely even on. Even at 1/2 it doesn't sound louder than the midbass from my speakers. And battery voltage is 100% not the problem, my car puts out a steady 13.5 volts all the time (I have a volt meter in my gauge cluster, thank you GM). RCA's im not sure about, they look fine though.

 
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