Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

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To save time assume that I know everything.. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

It will make a night and day difference, the spider that the RL-p uses is very thick and strong and will need time to become pliable, the thick spiders affect on the sound, while it is new is like pressing against the cone with a towel, output and efficiency are reduced greatly.

Why make em like this?

Because it makes the suspention very strong, the drawback is a long breaking period.

Have you looked at your ported box options?, not every good sounding ported box needs to be huge.
Does it sound like my subwoofer is wired in properly? I have no clue why my one channel amp has 2 sets of speaker termininals though. ONe of my friends said that all 4 speaker terminals on the amp need to be hooked up, and since i am leaving 2 open, the amp may be running weird and not at the correct ohm.

 
How did you determine "60%" is the correct gain setting?

Becuase if i put it lower than 60% you cannot even hear the sub from inside the car. Again, all my Headunit settings for the sub and crossover are fine, i have no clue what the problem is, and most of my audiophile friends are baffled.

 
Your not understanding what I am saying.It will sound like that untill the spider wears in.

So your saying its gonna sound all ****ed up like its running off of like 200 watts during break in, even though im sending it over 1000 watts? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I believe you, but i just have a hard time understanding that the output gets magnitudly lower during breakin. My Infinity Perfect running off of the JL 250/1 was way louder than this is right now, and i didn't have to have the gain all the way up on that amp.

 
Well if its inaudible below 60%, 60% isn't the proper spot. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Hook an o-scope to it if its that much trouble. You'll be able to find the exact proper gain setting on your amp and volume setting on your h/u.

 
Well if its inaudible below 60%, 60% isn't the proper spot. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Hook an o-scope to it if its that much trouble. You'll be able to find the exact proper gain setting on your amp and volume setting on your h/u.

So what are you saying exactly? Obviously there is a problem somewhere if i can barely hear the sub unless i have the gain all the way up.

 
Could it be any other wiring issue not directly related to the ohm rating? I had a place install my Nine.2 speaker amp a month ago, and every since then, i noticed some strange things going on with my Infinity Perfect, like it was very low and i had to up the gain alot on it. And my car is still sending out 13.5 volts so i don't think its low on power or anything.

 
Also, another important thing that may help. I am running a Nine.1 and a Nine.2 right now, and i do not have any electrical upgrades, however my battery voltage meter in my instrument cluster seems to be at the normal level even with both amps going.

 
Im saying it sounds like you have the gains out of whack. Head unit too high (volume knob) to compensate for too low of a gain setting on the amp, or vice versa.

What was making the subwoofer bottom out then when i made it too loud? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
Quote-"Could it be any other wiring issue not directly related to the ohm rating? I had a place install my Nine.2 speaker amp a month ago, and every since then, i noticed some strange things going on with my Infinity Perfect, like it was very low and i had to up the gain alot on it. And my car is still sending out 13.5 volts so i don't think its low on power or anything."

I can't say for sure with out having a look at it.

Many other Soundsplinter owners have complained of the same problems though when they first got their subs and the reason was thet the suspention needs to loosen up.

Alot of subs use different types of spiders that do not change after breakin, so if you are changin from one of those to a Soundsplinter your first thought will be "this sounds like shit compared to my old one". They are not shit they are just a different type of woofer that uses a different type of material in its spider, calm down give it time, it will sound awsome after some time.

I remember going from some old Pioneer 303's(diamondplates) to a pair of Eclipse 8700's and I thought they sounded like shit compared to my old Pioneers, it was explained to me that they needed to breakin due to their spider so I went with it thinking theres no way that these are gonna change that much but sure enough they cleared right up and started playing super loud. To this day those eclipses are among the best sounding subs I have ever owned.

 
I can't say for sure with out having a look at it.Many other Soundsplinter owners have complained of the same problems though when they first got their subs and the reason was thet the suspention needs to loosen up.

Alot of subs use different types of spiders that do not change after breakin, so if you are changin from one of those to a Soundsplinter your first thought will be "this sounds like shit compared to my old one". They are not shit they are just a different type of woofer that uses a different type of material in its spider, calm down give it time, it will sound awsome after some time.

I remember going from some old Pioneer 303's(diamondplates) to a pair of Eclipse 8700's and I thought they sounded like shit compared to my old Pioneers, it was explained to me that they needed to breakin due to their spider so I went with it thinking theres no way that these are gonna change that much but sure enough they cleared right up and started playing super loud. To this day those eclipses are amoung the best sounding subs I have ever owned.
Is the horrible bottoming out noise they make at high volume due to the lack of break in as well then? And RL-P's are basically reskinned Eclipse Ti's. And thank you for explaining this to me, i am not mad at you, im just mad that i spent an entire day with all different friends trying to make sure my wiring was correct, and we couldn't find anything i did wrong, yet the problem still remains. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif

 
Is the horrible bottoming out noise they make at high volume due to the lack of break in as well then? And RL-P's are basically reskinned Eclipse Ti's. And thank you for explaining this to me, i am not mad at you, im just mad that i spent an entire day with all different friends trying to make sure my wiring was correct, and we couldn't find anything i did wrong, yet the problem still remains. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif
They are not reskinned Ecipses they just share the same type of spider material.

The horrible bottoming out is just you overdriving them, you of course are overdriving them because of lack of output so its is sorta because they are not broke in.

Did you see what I posted earlier about breaking it in outside of the car?

"Another option is to run a 20hz tone through the sub overnight(12hours), take it out of the box and run it free air (keep the coil vent unblocked), hook it up to any amp that will handle the ohms and just turn it up loud enough to get the sub moving close to Xmech.

Not alot of power is needed to get the sub moving because its not in an enclosure. The fibers in the spider will break down at an accelerated rate and soften it up."

 
I second the "break in" statement on these subs, I remember when I first got mine it was stiff as hell, I put it in a medium ported enclosure putting about 1100 watts to it and sounded decent, but I didn't see all the hype to it, after about a week of bumping it it started to seem slightly louder, it seemed more power hungry so I turned up the gain on my amp a little and it really wangs now, I sh!t you not this thing bumps louder then my mofo 12 did and of course sounds a lot better (SQ) at the same time off less watts

 
They are not reskinned Ecipses they just share the same type of spider material.The horrible bottoming out is just you overdriving them, you of course are overdriving them because of lack of output so its is sorta because they are not broke in.

Did you see what I posted earlier about breaking it in outside of the car?

"Another option is to run a 20hz tone through the sub overnight(12hours), take it out of the box and run it free air (keep the coil vent unblocked), hook it up to any amp that will handle the ohms and just turn it up loud enough to get the sub moving close to Xmech.

Not alot of power is needed to get the sub moving because its not in an enclosure. The fibers in the spider will break down at an accelerated rate and soften it up."
yeah i read that, but how in the hell do i leave the car running all night? That would so drain the battery completely leaving it running without moving the entire night. I also don't need someone stealing my running car if its in the street, and I don't wanna fill my garage with Carbon Monoxide. Also, how long should i give it to "break in" if it doesn't sound right, so i know that there is still another problem?

 
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