Help!!! Just installed my RL-P, something is very wrong!!!

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Yes its the gain, your absolutely right nobody in this entire thread has thought of it before, you are such a genius.
Theres no way way a different enclosure will give him better output with good SQ, its all in the gain.
I said it was all in the gain? way to twist what i said jackass... i said it was one of his issues... not ALL...

If you really wanna know what I think his problem is, its that stupid power wire in the fuse box.

I read that his box is 1.1 cu ft... if it is infact .8 something, yeah that is a problem... but it shouldn't be too much of a problem to make it inaudible since he is sending the woofer 1200 watts!

 
Yes its the gain, your absolutely right nobody in this entire thread has thought of it before, you are such a genius.
Theres no way way a different enclosure will give him better output with good SQ, its all in the gain.
I am in now way saying you are wrong, I have never even heard this sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif . But anyways if this sub doesn't work well in 1 cube with that kind of power. Why would SS recommend that box size? Just curious cuz my buddy has limited space and was thinking of doing a 12 in a pretty small box, about 1^3 after dis. with about 1k watts.

 
personally i just think it cannot handle 1200 watts rms on a daily basis.
I've never comfortably recommended 1200 watts of continuous input power, as that is the absolute maximum limit anyone should ever use on the RL-p. Quite honestly, running in the range of 700-900 watts will be much easier on the driver, and the gains you'll get from bumpin' up to 1200 watts from 900 would be negligeable anyway (unless you're a dB freak and compete //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif ). You can use your 1200 watt Nine.1 (as quite a few of my customers do), but you just need to make sure that your gain is set conservatively, otherwise you risk overdriving and damaging the driver.

You seem to be against wanting to change your enclosure, but you should be aware that the enclosure is one of the most important aspects of a subwoofer system - just as important as the driver used, in determining what frequency response and output you will ultimately achieve. I have no doubt that the 0.8 - 0.85 cu ft net volume for the RL-p12 is attenuating the output you could receive if using a sealed enclosure at 1.25 - 1.35 cu ft net. If you refuse to change your enclosure, there is not much else you can do to increase your perceived output except adding polyfill - but that won't make a terribly large difference anyway.

Build a new enclosure man!

Give that RL-p some room to breathe!

.. and if you're really looking for a killer gain in output over your previous 12" driver, get a 1.5 cu ft net vented box tuned to 34 Hz. If you would like any help with possible enclosures, shoot me over another email. I don't think there is much else anyone on these forums will be able to do for you at this point. Quite a few potential options have been laid out for you, now it's time for you to decide which (if any) route(s) to take..

 
I am in now way saying you are wrong, I have never even heard this sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif . But anyways if this sub doesn't work well in 1 cube with that kind of power. Why would SS recommend that box size? Just curious cuz my buddy has limited space and was thinking of doing a 12 in a pretty small box, about 1^3 after dis. with about 1k watts.
It offers a very flat RTA curve for SQ comps.

Doesn't mean that it will be the best sounding box.

 
So putting it in a bigger ported box will qaudruple the output, and make it stop bottoming out and clipping? Because i don't wanna build a box for it, and have the same problem. Ive had like 5 people today tell me that the sub doesn't seem like it can handle the amp, and that when i turn it to levels where it should be hitting hard, it just falls on its face and starts clipping.

I have had my Rl-p on a Mark Antony 25opcm and now a Concept ccd1200 in a 2cu. ft box tuned to 34 hz with my gains at about 3/4 up but only take my headunit to a max of 26 out of 30. It sounds good to me with no bottoming out. But I would suggest not runninr with the gains turn all the way up which you should not do anyay. The sub sealed probably is not going to be ground shaking if that is what you expecting.

 
Why do I think they weren't. Also why do I think the only thing he needs to fix his problem is a multimeter or new box, which have both been mentioned. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif keep it coming guys lets hit 1k posts //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

If you read my update post, i said that we used the multimeter today, and the sub is measuring 1.3 ohms, and the amp is measuring 12.8 volts. Its getting enough power, so what would moving it to the battery do?

 
After living with my RL-P/ nine.1 for a few days I am disapointed with the output as well. I know all my gains/wiring are set correctly. The sub has great s.q. but doesn't have good output at all. My JL w3 with 600 watts was louder. I may end up selling this sub. It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick. It's hard to explain but I would need twice the output it has now to be happy. Maybe it's defective? Back to the drawing board.

 
Can someone please comment on the fact that the amp right now is measuring almost 13 volts already? Sounds to me like the fuse box line is powering it fine, and moving it to the battery will do nothing for it.

 
I've never comfortably recommended 1200 watts of continuous input power, as that is the absolute maximum limit anyone should ever use on the RL-p. Quite honestly, running in the range of 700-900 watts will be much easier on the driver, and the gains you'll get from bumpin' up to 1200 watts from 900 would be negligeable anyway (unless you're a dB freak and compete //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif ). You can use your 1200 watt Nine.1 (as quite a few of my customers do), but you just need to make sure that your gain is set conservatively, otherwise you risk overdriving and damaging the driver.
You seem to be against wanting to change your enclosure, but you should be aware that the enclosure is one of the most important aspects of a subwoofer system - just as important as the driver used, in determining what frequency response and output you will ultimately achieve. I have no doubt that the 0.8 - 0.85 cu ft net volume for the RL-p12 is attenuating the output you could receive if using a sealed enclosure at 1.25 - 1.35 cu ft net. If you refuse to change your enclosure, there is not much else you can do to increase your perceived output except adding polyfill - but that won't make a terribly large difference anyway.

Build a new enclosure man!

Give that RL-p some room to breathe!

.. and if you're really looking for a killer gain in output over your previous 12" driver, get a 1.5 cu ft net vented box tuned to 34 Hz. If you would like any help with possible enclosures, shoot me over another email. I don't think there is much else anyone on these forums will be able to do for you at this point. Quite a few potential options have been laid out for you, now it's time for you to decide which (if any) route(s) to take..
Did you ever know..., that you are,...My hero [cue music]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yourock.gif.93d527d504392657a77fa577298070a1.gif

 
After living with my RL-P/ nine.1 for a few days I am disapointed with the output as well. I know all my gains/wiring are set correctly. The sub has great s.q. but doesn't have good output at all. My JL w3 with 600 watts was louder. I may end up selling this sub. It only sounds good with rap played at high volume levels....kick drums have no kick. It's hard to explain but I would need twice the output it has now to be happy. Maybe it's defective? Back to the drawing board.

what kind of box?

 
And i am not against building a box at all if i need to, but i wanna make sure 100% that i will need to. I doubt moving it from the fuse box to the battery will do anything since the amp right now is getting more than enough voltage and current. Now you see my point?

 
Quote from the man who owns Soundsplinter

"Build a new enclosure man!

Give that RL-p some room to breathe!

.. and if you're really looking for a killer gain in output over your previous 12" driver, get a 1.5 cu ft net vented box tuned to 34 Hz."

*hint* *hint*

 
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