Help improve my audio system

[venturejordi]

I really value clear and clean music over loud music. It just doesn't get loud enough when roof is down with out distortion. 2013 Jeep wrangler JK 2 door with soft top.

This is the equipment I currently have and Im happy with it but I would like something better.

Headunit: Eonon GA5177F Android 4.4.4

For my vehicle I should have ordered the GA5177FS, I believe its the same headunit with the only difference being the canbus unit which i have ordered form Eonon

Speakers

Front:

165A1 - Focal Access 6.5" 2 Way Component Speakers

Back:

Focal Access 165 CA1 6.5-Inch Coaxial Speaker Kit

Speaker AMP: (8 gauge wiring kit)

PBR300X4

Sub: (sealed box around .8 cubic feet)

Rockford Fosgate P2D2-8

Sub AMP: (4 gauge kit seems really high quality came with some used parts I bought for a friend)

Rockford Fosgate P300-1

So this is what I want to improve and my questions.

I am really looking for how to increase volume and keep the same or better clarity will bridging my 4channel amp and using that for the 2 front speakers help me? then get some other amp for the rear speakers? can my speakers handle more power?

Currently my front speakers are playing the full range of sound. the headunit has no built in crossover for sub/speakers like most do. is it worth the investment in some kind of crossover/filter?

Also how bad is it to run your RCAs and the amp wires beside each other?

Is there any benefit to running new speaker wires from the amp directly to the speakers vs just using the factory wires?

I probably have more questions but cant think about them right now.

Click to read more...

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

If your factory wire is 20 gauge and you are running 100 watts or more then yeah upgrading to 16 gauge will make a noticeable difference.

If you dont notice any engine noise when your RCAs are next to your power wire then its fine to keep them like that. Split them apart if you have noise.

I'd get a digital signal processor to cross over all your stuff along with getting a stronger signal to the amps and overall much better sound quality. That head unit stinks audio wise, its whats known as a for show head unit with near zero audio capabilities. You are getting distortion because you have no crossover capabilities and the door speakers are playing too low which dramatically reduces their power handling and cone control. You need to be able to high pass the door speakers to at least 80 or 100 hz before you can really push them. Neither your head unit or amp can do anything about it. Putting more power to it will only serve to mess up your speaker even further.

Adding a rockford 3sixty.3 and some work will get you sounding a lot better and louder too with a clean strong signal and proper crossover capabilities so the energy can be focused properly

For the budget side you can use a soundstream harmony DSP which is 200$ on ebay. Or a mini dsp 2 to 4

 

[venturejordi]

Thanks for the tips.

It would be easy to run new speaker cables to the front speakers in my system so I might look into that. The rears might be harder but I will look into that also.

I do get some engine noise on my system. But I am certain its because I sliced one of the RCA shields with a knife recently. (New cable is on its way)

The Rockford 3sixty.3 Is just not going to work with my budget currently.

The sound stream unit I could probably fit in my budget but I would like to see some other possibly cheaper options.

A DSP sounds like the equipment I need I was thinking I needed some kind of EQ.

 

[venturejordi]

For the budget side you can use a soundstream harmony DSP which is 200$ on ebay. Or a mini dsp 2 to 4

I might go with the Mini DSP would you recommend getting the UMIK-1 mic to help EQ the system?

On minidsps site they ask about the max input jumper rev A or rev B which one should I get?

do you see any issue buying the kit one and just sticking it in a plastic box of my own to save a few bucks?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I might go with the Mini DSP would you recommend getting the UMIK-1 mic to help EQ the system? On minidsps site they ask about the max input jumper rev A or rev B which one should I get?

do you see any issue buying the kit one and just sticking it in a plastic box of my own to save a few bucks?

you can make a wooden box, plastic box, aluminium it doesnt matter as long as its mounted well, protected from dust and has okay heat dissipation. A small little computer fan you have lying around would be more than plenty. However i'd do the case just for resale value if you ever plan on upgrading to a 4 way active setup in the future.

The umik-1 mic and REW(room eq wizard free download and software) just helps you see what needs to be EQ'd down to achieve tonal balance so yeah if you can fit it in the budget, it can help make life easier with tuning. You can always get it later on or go to a car audio shop with an RTA and just pay them 10-20 dollars for an RTA so you know what to change EQ out.

However Its not really needed unless you are going to compete in sound quality competitions. For daily listening and enjoyment purposes you can just play around with the EQ until you get the sound you like and save the 70 dollars. By the end of the day, your ears are the best tuning tools when it comes to mids and highs because you are the one enjoying the music.

from minidsp

A component has a maximum signal level that it can accept on its input, or generate on its output. In a typical analog line-level component, the output signal is the one to worry about, and is usually determined by the power supply voltage. DSP-based components, however, have very specific maximum input and output levels. In the miniDSP 2x4 kit, for example, the maximum input level can be set by a jumper to either 0.9 V RMS or 2.0 V RMS, and the maximum output level is always 0.9 V RMS.

So its basically to match what pre-out voltage(aka signal strength) your head unit puts out. You'll have to check on that yourself

I'd get the mini dc for Car audio option to prevent turn on pops and other noise possibilities.

Another neat feature the DSP will have is time alignment. Basically sets up delay to your speakers and subs so all the sound waves reach your ear the same time which creates a virtual soundstage which is very very cool. You are immersed in music like being in front of a rock concert rather than just listening to music.

 

[Pyro_By_Nature 5,000+ posts]

1:It looks like your amp has a high pass crossover, utilize that and see how much that helps

2: Run new larger gauge speaker wire from the amp to the speakers

3: Bridge the 4 channel to the fronts, get a small 2 channel for the rears.

 

[Roland 10+ year member]

Personally i wouldn't have a system without a DSP. A well tuned system makes a world of differance

* I have a PPI DEQ.8 (new cond) for sale in the classifieds $220 shipped. Very good product. *

Also you might consider a HU with a built in DSP like the PRS80, not s good as a stand alone but...

 

[venturejordi]

I ordered a mini DSP 2x4, miniDC kit, and a UMIK-1 mic.

Should I run the sub through the miniDSP or just the 4 speakers?

1:It looks like your amp has a high pass crossover, utilize that and see how much that helps
2: Run new larger gauge speaker wire from the amp to the speakers

3: Bridge the 4 channel to the fronts, get a small 2 channel for the rears.

1. I will try the High pass filter while I wait for the DSP. Thanks for the tip I thought that was just to remove static/noise.

2. I ordered some 16 gauge speaker wire. I have some "12 Gauge" but its very low quality.

3. Any suggestions for a cheap 2 channel amp for the rear?

Thanks

 

[venturejordi]

I got all my stuff today. MiniDSP 2x4 and the umik 1.

How should I be setting it up? Right, left, and sub? Front right left, rear right left, and sub not through DSP?

Also what plugin should i buy?

On phone sry if somthing doesn't make sense, just ask to clarify

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I got all my stuff today. MiniDSP 2x4 and the umik 1.
How should I be setting it up? Right, left, and sub? Front right left, rear right left, and sub not through DSP?

Also what plugin should i buy?

On phone sry if somthing doesn't make sense, just ask to clarify

Just have your mids and highs on the DSP. Your sub amp should have all the necessary crossovers.

Room Eq Wizard(REW) tutorial

https://www.minidsp.com/applications/acoustic-measurements/umik-1-hdmi-on-windows

Start up the software if it still comes with it. If not, you might have to get it here.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/plugins/4way-advanced-detail