Sorry about Jacking the thread.. We had some communication issues and seem to be worked out. I have a set of the Polk DB6501 components thatbI use for backup and a set of the 651s.Both do well, and do great for drop ins on majority stock HUs that Ive done also.The components do much better prepping the doors and on about 60+ rms power( Ive always ran my old school Autotek Mean Machine 66hc on them) Ive ran the 651s in the doors with the same up up front and sounded very nice as well.Ive ran the tweeters on my doors just right at the seating area where my head would be about waist height on the door panels and the mid in the doors and they did well in my 92 integra.Best to have the tweeter close by the mid if possible.I DO NOT RECOMMEND PLACING THE CROSSOVERS INSIDE THE DOORS..EVER!!Bad placement for one..they are not accessable, they may get wet from the rain water that enters the window cavity, and they gain heat as well/not good for the caps collect moisture and rust ect..Best to Zip tie them under the dash somewhere like the brace bar or under ea front seat.I like rear fill. Most do not, but i like that surround sound affect, and passengers need something to hear if riding in the back.30 watts may be plenty on the rear stage not to over power the front stage.As far as the sub?? there are some on sale right now that will perform much better than the kicker you have in a decent tuned enclosure and some power.Id recommend this sub thats on sale now,as i have a pair and serve very well in approx 2.0 @32 htz on approx 1k-1400 rms SoundQubed HDS3.110 on an amp like this one here be a decent setup on substage https://www.amazon.com/P1000-1-Precision-Power-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B005KW10ES/ref=sm_n_se_dkp_US_pr_sea_0_2?adId=B005KW10ES&creativeASIN=B005KW10ES&linkId=3c5f1f4082c7a46d3a013890623b6c79&tag=sonicelectr01-20&linkCode=w42&ref-refURL=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sonicelectronix.com%2Fsearch&slotNum=0&imprToken=b2Ho.U-nnAltf2m7uEzXwA&adType=smart&adMode=search&adFormat=grid&impressionTimestamp=1511418435112 be a decent set up
I’m driving a Mazda 6. I will def check my older equipment. If anything use that till I shop around. Thanks
Id check out your older equipment as well.They may still work just fine and may be all you need.I always say.. run what you have till you decide on other equipment/or upgrading.Great Sales going on and a great time to get a deal on some great subs,and amps as well.I still run and use my 20+ year old amplifiers and most are better SQ than most on the market unless you pay premium.Real USA made /Zed made gems.They may not be as effecient /power hogs but placing the supply for the demand, and they do great.
Ok...good to know about the crossover and not to install inside door panel. In that case, I’m not certain how to run the wires into the car. This would be the woofer and tweeter speaker wires that are connected to the crossover, as well as the wire from the plug that originally plugged into the OEM woofer...I have a wire adapter for that. From what I saw, those wires would have to run through that rubber boot that’s between door and body of car...is that right?
Also, my pioneer HU has these “Speaker Level” adjustments that is to address any axis requirements...again, I understand that very little. Not to sound stupid, but do you address off/on axis with actual tweeter placement or, place both the same spot (of across one on left one on right), then make adjustments through HU or other way? Thank you.
If you can Locate the wiring under the dash that goes to each speaker, you can cut there and get some 14ga wire to add to that long enough to run to the In/supply to the crossover and from the crossover id run new wiring to the new Mid and run another new set of wiring from the cross to the tweeter. This is for now since you are coming off the HU and not the amplifier for now to supply the speakers through the crossover for the front, and you will be able to utilize these new wires for the new speakers and will not have to pull those door panels again,,You will simply be be coming off the crossover supply when you add the amplifier later on.And yes go through the black boots/rubber boots on the doors, its for the door wiring to keep from crimping the wiring going to the doors.you will not need to use the connectors,as you will be using the new wiring being installed in the doors.It would be just fine if you were just adding like a coaxial in placement of a single speaker/plug and play if you will..That can be done for the rear speakers..But you are going through the crossover to the components up front from the HU. Rear speakers are going to be Plug and Play at this time.pull the old speaker out and use the adapter to plug into the existing plug connector after removing the existing speaker, and connect the new speaker and screw the new speaker in place...HU powered there and no Crossover needed or that comes with the Coax /new rear speakers.On the front you can just remove/unplug the existing speaker and leave that wire /plug alone, as it will not be use and is still in the door and can be used later if going back stock
Id have to read up on that particular radio,but it sounds like and adjustment for sound staging..kind of like my older Sony HU I had installed. If so, That can be played with after getting your speakers installed to adjust to your liking. Most are like low level,Mid level and high level/upper level.. bringing the sound stage up to the level you like most.Components should be placed within the same spot on both doors as any speaker should as well,same balance from the left as to the right.Adjustments can be made through most HUs. If you have the Time alignment feature you can place all the sound to different locations..such as drivers side only, center, and other settings for sub stage , rear stage ect.Pretty interesting to experience
Ok...this all makes sense...I already did the rear speakers. Used some speaker and speaker wire adapters and they all fit fine. The boot part on the front doors is what worries me...but I’ll see what I can do. This setup will be good bc then I can make adjustments on the crossover from the tweeter (-3db, 0db, +3db). The wires that ran from HU to speakers should be too hard to find. I had to find them before when I was installing the HU. Thank you so much!
The easiest way to get those new wires pulled through that boot would be to tape really good to the existing wiring and pull them through,and just do away with the existing in the door completely.Another way is to remove the boot as it is fairly easy and just run through the boot by hand and replace the boot back at a later time when done, Pretty easy done that way as well.that boot just pops off.. you can pop it back on after running the new wires..Its rubber and pressed in.
Here is a link to a vid that pretty much explains those settings. There is a time alignment too. So I’m not sure if I should set my external crossover to 0db and then make adjustment through HU.
So, installed one side today...no time for the other side. Went the route you suggested. I just couldn’t tap into speaker wires for the input on the crossover. Just used the OEM plug from door and ran wires through boot to crossover, which I mounted behind kick-panel. Only issue, can’t get that rubber boot back on.
