Hello...from FL

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So, installed one side today...no time for the other side. Went the route you suggested. I just couldn’t tap into speaker wires for the input on the crossover. Just used the OEM plug from door and ran wires through boot to crossover, which I mounted behind kick-panel. Only issue, can’t get that rubber boot back on. The speakers do sound so much better and you can really tell the difference especially since stock is still on left side and new speakers on right side. Thanks for the advice!!

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Good deal on that..Some of those boots can be a PITA so to speak. A long screw driver usually works fine and some manipulation..I sometimes use a Tire iron at times as well, but mainly a long screw driver works fine

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So, this is the amp I had from years ago. Not sure how to test if it’s still good. Also, would this be enough to power my front and rear speakers?

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Thats a really decent good old school amp.The V-power were next to my favorites as the Duo-B Japan made series.It will work just fine for all your speakers up front and for the rear.These two series of Alpine amps are pretty much Bullet proof/seem to run forever,and they are pretty clean as far as clean power.Esiest way to at least power it up and see if it lights up..It #1 ..check that fuse to see if its still in tact/not blown( may be best just to change it if its been sitting over a year)prob like $2 bucks at like Orileys, or? for a small package..#2 take some 12 ga min like Speaker wire(like about 1'-0 and pull apart all the way.)I use either Black or the silver portion to connect to the ground section on the amp Wire #1 ..Cut like a 4" piece of wire and place on the remote section of the amp Wire #2 ..Then the Last..take the Solid color wire or Copper portion of the speaker/wire and place on Power section along with adding the other end of the Remote wire(jumper wire) #3 ..Now you have the Ground wire -, and the Poss.+ to connect to power supply. Wedge the Ground to your - post on your car battery and touch the power/+poss post on the battery...wait like 3-5 seconds for the amp delay, and that blue light on the face should light up Blue,, If It turns Yellowish /red It has an issue and prob needs be cracked open see if Mosfets are bad or caps.If it lights up Blue/green, more than Likely its going to work just fine.great amps though.Not 100x4 or anything..But in reality Im sure you can get an easy 60+ per channel and will work just fine for you till you decide to get more power or not.It may be all you need for a while.It should be able to keep up with a decent 600-1k rms 10 or 12 on front stage.Those Polks will sound pretty nice on it..You may only need to turn the rear up to like 9;Oclock position at most front like about 12-1;Oclock position

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So, installed one side today...no time for the other side. Went the route you suggested. I just couldn’t tap into speaker wires for the input on the crossover. Just used the OEM plug from door and ran wires through boot to crossover, which I mounted behind kick-panel. Only issue, can’t get that rubber boot back on. The speakers do sound so much better and you can really tell the difference especially since stock is still on left side and new speakers on right side. Thanks for the advice!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those Polks are really nice speakers for the money.Kinda hard to beat for the price to be honest unless you do Raw drivers.Great speakers though, and they will last you as long as you keep from distorting them/clipping.Ive had mine for approx 3 years now.I drop them in and out from time to time/use for temp speakers all the time

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

So, this is the amp I had from years ago. Not sure how to test if it’s still good. Also, would this be enough to power my front and rear speakers?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Smallish amp, o/s size...wouldn't surprise me if it did rated or a few more. Found specs on it.... Alpine MRP-F240 Amplifiers Reviews - Carreview.com

10 more watts into 2 ohms??!! Lol what a joke. If it was me, I would bridge that amp on your comps. More power that way and utilize your amp more.

Only way to test it is with a power supply or in your car. Just hook it up as temporary and the LED should come on.