Head unit suggestions for 3 way active + 2 subs setup

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You sit a little further back that me so you legs are more straight and gm trucks have a taller front set than Fords. My legs are probably much closer to the dash bottom than yours. But that was an old install over a decade ago. I've learned a lot since then.

Now I need to figure out my dsp and amps for my next build. I'm thinking a stereo integrity sqi 1500d and sqi 125.4

If the tweets would ever come in stock it like to try the stereo integrity m25 mkii too.

Is there any high powered soft dome tweeters? Like 150 watts plus rms.

 

[Bobbytwonames 5,000+ posts]

You sit a little further back that me so you legs are more straight and gm trucks have a taller front set than Fords. My legs are probably much closer to the dash bottom than yours. But that was an old install over a decade ago. I've learned a lot since then.

Now I need to figure out my dsp and amps for my next build. I'm thinking a stereo integrity sqi 1500d and sqi 125.4

If the tweets would ever come in stock it like to try the stereo integrity m25 mkii too.

Bro. These were mounted below the dash in a 94' Impala a couple of years ago. They sounded ridiculous.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Is there any high powered soft dome tweeters? Like 150 watts plus rms.

Yea lots of them

And yea cars are easier for horns because your legs are more straight

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Your running the mille mids aren't you?

Full Mille legend stage. ML 280.3 tweeters, ML 700.3 midrange, and ML 1800.3 midbass. Fantastic speakers, and the midbass has a Neo magnet so it fits in tight doors.

Matt

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Over bearingly loud midrange with a likely a muddy upper range I don't believe for a moment those pioneers should be played past 8khz

You could cross the flutes at say 250hz low pass and bandpass the pioneers 250-8k but the pioneers would overpower the silverflutes.

Midbass at extreme volume would take several thousand watts across multiple drivers.

Most builders rather use midrange drivers and let the subs play up to the midranges cross over point.

I just don't care to do that since it draws my sound stage rearward. This is due to the fact that the high frequency you get the better your ears are at detecting the direction the sound is coming from. My subs usually cross in the 50-65hz range

The makes them quieter overall at least to the ear because they aren't playing frequencies that your ear can detect directionally.

Just different play styles. I can still let my subs get loud and they will drown out the midbass like anything else but I'm usually more balanced that that.

Midbass is a *****. Fortunately, if you are running a big substage, you will get a decent bit of midbass response no matter what you do. The trick is to plan for your sub to play 60-80hz and down and mess with the delay until your midbass response sounds good. but once you cross a certain power/cone area threshold, you will not really even notice your midbass lacking.

I really need to finish my doors, the mids aren't really sealed to the door that well.

Matt

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Midbass is a *****. Fortunately, if you are running a big substage, you will get a decent bit of midbass response no matter what you do. The trick is to plan for your sub to play 60-80hz and down and mess with the delay until your midbass response sounds good. but once you cross a certain power/cone area threshold, you will not really even notice your midbass lacking.

I really need to finish my doors, the mids aren't really sealed to the door that well.

Matt

Yea I'm pretty sure I'm gonna stick with the flutes for a while but if I change I may try the stereo integrity mids.

Really would love to get my hands on the stereo integrity m25 mkii tweeters, that or maybe the audio frog gb10.

Gonna try the dd at-28a first hopefully the local shops have a set. They should drop intoy current pods. The SI and audiofrog both need new pods.

I think I am set on the new stereo integrity amps, and 4 savard hi-q 6.5 subs on the 1500w.

Dsp wise idk yet maybe a DD DSi-3, maybe a minidsp, I like the dd app and the DD form factor but it depends if I can find one.

 

[mat3833 10+ year member]

Yea I'm pretty sure I'm gonna stick with the flutes for a while but if I change I may try the stereo integrity mids.

Really would love to get my hands on the stereo integrity m25 mkii tweeters, that or maybe the audio frog gb10.

Gonna try the dd at-28a first hopefully the local shops have a set. They should drop intoy current pods. The SI and audiofrog both need new pods.

I think I am set on the new stereo integrity amps, and 4 savard hi-q 6.5 subs on the 1500w.

Dsp wise idk yet maybe a DD DSi-3, maybe a minidsp, I like the dd app and the DD form factor but it depends if I can find one.

Favorite midbass I have ever used so far is the ML 1800.3. Close second is the yellow-cone polyglass mids from focal. I hate the focal for a 2 way, but crossing them at 400-500 for midbass is fantastic to my ears. The ML 1800.3 are just awesome, I can play them up to 2k without any real issues. They take gobs of power and just keep pounding.

Everyone says the Helix DSP has the most features. I don't have any real complaints about my Audison DSP tho. In reality, the specific DSP matters less than the install/tuning. You don't need to have comb filters, 48db slopes, and crazy crossover types to make a system work.

Matt