Having trouble with recone

[travicles 10+ year member]

So, I put a little too much power on the SA-8, and the tinsel leads broke //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif. Anyways, I bought a recone, but no basket. I cut everything off, but I was flabbergasted when I noticed the spider was covered in glue. I attempted to take it all off, but I didn't make too much progress. I am beginning to think I should have bought a new basket. Anyone have any experience taking off the old spider and glue on this sub? This is my first time reconing; there's gotta be a way to do it.

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[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

screwdriver and a rubber mallet... use the screwdriver like a chisel to get around the edges of the spider.

 

[Kangaroux 5,000+ posts]

Don't the SA's use a plastic ring that the spiders are attached to?

 

[RangerDangerV2 5,000+ posts]

Don't the SA's use a plastic ring that the spiders are attached to?

pretty sure the v1s are glued...

 

[goingdef 10+ year member]

razor blade?

 

[skitzafit 10+ year member]

wire brush for a drill?

 

[travicles 10+ year member]

I will have to post a picture tomorrow. I tried using a screwdriver and hammer. Maybe I am just not trying hard enough, but I feel that there is more glue on the spider than other subs I have seen.

 

[dbeez 5,000+ posts]

Some have little pins that helped line it up at the factory I used a cut off wheel with a breathing mask cause the glue puts off a smell that will make you sick and eyes water but it worked great and fast.

 

[QuietEclipse29 10+ year member]

Some have little pins that helped line it up at the factory I used a cut off wheel with a breathing mask cause the glue puts off a smell that will make you sick and eyes water but it worked great and fast.

This ^

Done a couple of them, first couple times I just chisel it all off then hit it with a wire brush on a drill.

 

[skitzafit 10+ year member]

Here is a pic in this post http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/385621-thors-09-build-log-14.html#post6091297

 

[travicles 10+ year member]

Ok yeah, I am going to have to get me a drill attachment.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

You should be able to take it down with a utility knife in under ten minutes. Once you get a feel for it it's easy. I have also used a grinding wheel which works great, but you must be very carful about taking down into the metal and the dust and fumes from the glue can be rough so use a respirator if you go that route.

 

[sundownz Pro Seller]

All but the first run of SA-8s have a steel ring bolted on top of the spider. On the 12-spoke units the bolts come in from the back so should be pretty straight-forward to get out if you remove the frame from the motor -- on the newer ones they bolted in from top so some of the screw heads will have epoxy in them.

If you cannot get the screws out (due to epoxy in the head or any other reason) you can typically get a flat screw-driver under the ring with a bit of hammering and simply pull the bolts out of the aluminum. They are pretty small bolts so you can usually just pull them through the threads with a decent length screw-driver.

I typically suggest new frames for simplicity and they are only $10 so most people would rather save the time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[travicles 10+ year member]

All but the first run of SA-8s have a steel ring bolted on top of the spider. On the 12-spoke units the bolts come in from the back so should be pretty straight-forward to get out if you remove the frame from the motor -- on the newer ones they bolted in from top so some of the screw heads will have epoxy in them.
If you cannot get the screws out (due to epoxy in the head or any other reason) you can typically get a flat screw-driver under the ring with a bit of hammering and simply pull the bolts out of the aluminum. They are pretty small bolts so you can usually just pull them through the threads with a decent length screw-driver.

I typically suggest new frames for simplicity and they are only $10 so most people would rather save the time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

This is some very helpful information. You sound like you know what you are doing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif. Thank you!

 

[travicles 10+ year member]

All but the first run of SA-8s have a steel ring bolted on top of the spider. On the 12-spoke units the bolts come in from the back so should be pretty straight-forward to get out if you remove the frame from the motor -- on the newer ones they bolted in from top so some of the screw heads will have epoxy in them.
If you cannot get the screws out (due to epoxy in the head or any other reason) you can typically get a flat screw-driver under the ring with a bit of hammering and simply pull the bolts out of the aluminum. They are pretty small bolts so you can usually just pull them through the threads with a decent length screw-driver.

I typically suggest new frames for simplicity and they are only $10 so most people would rather save the time //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Okay, I got my basket all cleaned up. I am wondering since my aluminum ring that was over the spider is basically obliterated, will I be fine without it once I recone? I imagine I should just slather some glue on top of the spider also? Please fill me in on what to do.