Having a very hard time getting help. PROS ONLY!

Whoa, post up the phase plot for that. Your group delay plot is beautifully smooth //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/drool.gif.b5e863e893038027711d4402f340dad0.gif
Here you go, PV. One of the best group delay plots one could hope for regarding a vented enclosure. Not a very conventional design with about the same excursion as a sealed enclosure, except for right at tuning, but extremely well behaved overall. This is the driver that I had you double check the math for, concerning the parameter extrapolation. It doesn't get very loud but it has bandwidth. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww43/ciaonzo/Temp/PV4000.jpg

Edit* I forgot to mention that this is for two-channel music at home, no generic vehicle transfer function applied.

 
Hey guys thanks a lot for all the help gonna build new enclosures soon.

ciaonzo, is that 2 cubes net for BOTH drivers, aka 1 cube each? that seems way to small imo. granted its for flattest response, thats half what they are seeing now lol.

also when it says at 2000 watts of power is that for each sub? I have my atomic at .5 ohm so it will be about 1600 each sub at full tilt (obv less after rise)

 
Hey guys thanks a lot for all the help gonna build new enclosures soon.
ciaonzo, is that 2 cubes net for BOTH drivers, aka 1 cube each? that seems way to small imo. granted its for flattest response, thats half what they are seeing now lol.

also when it says at 2000 watts of power is that for each sub? I have my atomic at .5 ohm so it will be about 1600 each sub at full tilt (obv less after rise)
Yes, that is the system response. Both drivers in 2cu.ft. net with 2000 watts applied will yield those results. It seems small because lots of guys who are just going for numbers build large enclosures to keep vent dimensions manageable (short) but they do that without regard for optimal performance in other areas such as peaky frequency response and a lowered mechanical power handling at frequencies not supported by the vent, which is what you experienced. Other enclosures that are designed properly and are still large, are most likely the result of a driver that has a large Vas. The BL product for your driver is pretty high and the Vas is pretty low, as is the Qts. That all adds up to a small enclosure (and a long vent for low tuning, PR's rule!). Your enclosure will still be sizable due to the fact that you'll need to factor in the displacement of the vent (.79cu.ft.). You can safely throw 3200 at this system (flat) without much concern for over-excursion until you get down to around 25Hz. Be sure to use your SSF if you intend abuse them.

 
And probably paid 60 bucks for the PWK design too, eh?
haha..yea...and claimed he spent $130 on the first enclosure:wow: sorry but i would've capped the first one and relocated the sub...if any depth issues the double baffle from capping it should suffice or throw a ring on there for clearance..cheap solution...not 60 more for a design..lol

I modeled for both "flat" and output-oriented but mbrooky beat me to the punch for the output numbers. His results matched mine nearly perfectly so I just modeled what he posted instead and created an overlay plot so you can compare the two. The bluish color is the "flat" model and will cater to a better balance for music purposes. The magenta color is the output model will provide more impact and will suit hip-hop nicely. It will have a higher group delay but nothing grotesque. I come from the school of anything higher than 10milliseconds above 40Hz is undesirable so this one just sneaks in there. Both are good models and it will come down to personal taste. Somewhat flat in-car response is achieved with 2cu.ft. @30Hz, 31.5sq.in. of vent area (I modeled with 14 x 2.25) with 43.25" of length. A minimal amount of lining on the walls but do not inhibit airflow for the vent. I did not bother with a drawing because I assume you know how to figure for volume and displacements. I rarely bother with a drawing, truthfully.
The six graphs illustrate the following;

Upper left - normalized frequency response (generic in-car transfer function applied)

Upper right - group delay

Middle left - vent velocity with 2000 watts of power input (both are great)

Middle right - acoustic power, this helps you visualize the thermal and mechanical limits.

Lower left - excursion with 2000 watts of power input

Lower right - impedance curve

http://i704.photobucket.com/albums/ww43/ciaonzo/Temp/mendon.jpg
Sweet!//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
Yes, that is the system response. Both drivers in 2cu.ft. net with 2000 watts applied will yield those results. It seems small because lots of guys who are just going for numbers build large enclosures to keep vent dimensions manageable (short) but they do that without regard for optimal performance in other areas such as peaky frequency response and a lowered mechanical power handling at frequencies not supported by the vent, which is what you experienced. Other enclosures that are designed properly and are still large, are most likely the result of a driver that has a large Vas. The BL product for your driver is pretty high and the Vas is pretty low, as is the Qts. That all adds up to a small enclosure (and a long vent for low tuning, PR's rule!). Your enclosure will still be sizable due to the fact that you'll need to factor in the displacement of the vent (.79cu.ft.). You can safely throw 3200 at this system (flat) without much concern for over-excursion until you get down to around 25Hz. Be sure to use your SSF if you intend abuse them.

Yea a PR may be a good investment i can have a full trunk still lol. What size would be good for 2 12's

BTW could i simply cut the dimensions in half and have a suitable box for one 12" or are the box sizes specific to both drivers and need to do different calculations for a single sub?

Ok so im going to build a box for my 15" btl as well over my break. i was thinking 4 cubes net 70" port area tuned to 35 hz. Ive heard btls love big ports and big boxes. is this true? Whats do you recommend?

 
Yea a PR may be a good investment i can have a full trunk still lol. What size would be good for 2 12's
BTW could i simply cut the dimensions in half and have a suitable box for one 12" or are the box sizes specific to both drivers and need to do different calculations for a single sub?

Ok so im going to build a box for my 15" btl as well over my break. i was thinking 4 cubes net 70" port area tuned to 35 hz. Ive heard btls love big ports and big boxes. is this true? Whats do you recommend?
Nope, you can't just cut the volume in half for this particular situation. I mean, you can, but you won't get the same smooth response and you'll have an even longer vent. Two drivers sharing a common volume with a single vent is optimal. If small size becomes a priority, I would certainly go with a PR setup or a sealed enclosure. I can't recommend a specific PR alignment unless I know the Vap, Cms, and Sd of the PR you use. Generally, the lower you tune, the more PR you need. If you were to go sealed, I would get a driver that will work better in that scenario. That's just me though.

I don't have any experience with fi so you might want to consult with someone else on that topic.

 
Nope, you can't just cut the volume in half for this particular situation. I mean, you can, but you won't get the same smooth response and you'll have an even longer vent. Two drivers sharing a common volume with a single vent is optimal. If small size becomes a priority, I would certainly go with a PR setup or a sealed enclosure. I can't recommend a specific PR alignment unless I know the Vap, Cms, and Sd of the PR you use. Generally, the lower you tune, the more PR you need. If you were to go sealed, I would get a driver that will work better in that scenario. That's just me though.
I don't have any experience with fi so you might want to consult with someone else on that topic.
So what steps would i take to build a box for just one subwoofer? Im guessing that most people simply dont care how there bass sounds cuz nobody seems to take this much effort in designing boxes.

Space is not really a concern just would be nice to have a full trunk and a 145+ db setup. I got 13 cubes to play with but I can only fit a 6 cube box without building in the vehicle. There is only 14" height opening into my cabin too so i cant fire 15's directly into the cabin without tilting them and my btl cant tilt enough cuz the motor is to wide and it hits the floor of the box. other wise id be running the btl and enver would have bought the alphas.

 
So what steps would i take to build a box for just one subwoofer? Im guessing that most people simply dont care how there bass sounds cuz nobody seems to take this much effort in designing boxes.
Space is not really a concern just would be nice to have a full trunk and a 145+ db setup. I got 13 cubes to play with but I can only fit a 6 cube box without building in the vehicle. There is only 14" height opening into my cabin too so i cant fire 15's directly into the cabin without tilting them and my btl cant tilt enough cuz the motor is to wide and it hits the floor of the box. other wise id be running the btl and enver would have bought the alphas.
Yep, lots of guys are simply going for output so they use as much vent area as they can and to keep the vent length down they go with more volume than is needed. Might be loud, but it's certainly not accurate and it probably exhibits poor cone damping and a hollow sounding character. Everyone's mileage will vary and there are some clever solutions that go against the usual logic so I'm not addressing those individuals who know exactly what they're doing with regards to very specific custom installs. I'm describing those individuals who tend to "design" and build enclosures to have a certain tuning and then attempt stick any old driver in there and can't understand why something just isn't right.

I should clarify that it won't always be the case where you have to have two subs in the same air space but when using subs with a low Vas, it's very effective.

I just wanted to help you with your initial problem and hopefully to give a bit of insight as to how certain things can affect certain results. I'll be the first to say that I do not care for SPL setups and I do not specialize in them so you may want to seek the help of someone like mobeious or many others who are well versed in SPL designs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
Yep, lots of guys are simply going for output so they use as much vent area as they can and to keep the vent length down they go with more volume than is needed. Might be loud, but it's certainly not accurate and it probably exhibits poor cone damping and a hollow sounding character. Everyone's mileage will vary and there are some clever solutions that go against the usual logic so I'm not addressing those individuals who know exactly what they're doing with regards to very specific custom installs. I'm describing those individuals who tend to "design" and build enclosures to have a certain tuning and then attempt stick any old driver in there and can't understand why something just isn't right.
I should clarify that it won't always be the case where you have to have two subs in the same air space but when using subs with a low Vas, it's very effective.

I just wanted to help you with your initial problem and hopefully to give a bit of insight as to how certain things can affect certain results. I'll be the first to say that I do not care for SPL setups and I do not specialize in them so you may want to seek the help of someone like mobeious or many others who are well versed in SPL designs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Having said what you did above im guessing i can kiss my 145's good bye?

Are there any extreme dimensions i should stay away from. Like aspect ratio or somthing like that? I speced out a box on the re calc (i know its way off) box width: 36", box height: 13.5", box depth 14.5, with a 2.75" wide port and a square port length 2 of 24". On the re site it specs out to 2.338 cubes @ 29.18hz Does this look good for the flat response?

EDIT: this does not account for double baffle, i will make adjustments just want to see if the basic layout and volume and tuning looks good.

Its quite odd that steve miller recommended me to build 2 cubes net for each sub. you would think he should know the driver really preforms in a smaller enclosure, he also told me to use half the port area but i ignored him lol.

Im still going to experiment with my enclosure for a single 12 just to see what i like the best. i may build the box calculated for flattest response and build a second based off of my experimentation. I have some time coming up and mdf is relatively cheap in the ca world so i think i want to learn and see some things first hard.

Ill start a thread in about a week when i start building. ill post it in the build log section i guess.

 
Having said what you did above im guessing i can kiss my 145's good bye?
Are there any extreme dimensions i should stay away from. Like aspect ratio or somthing like that? I speced out a box on the re calc (i know its way off) box width: 36", box height: 13.5", box depth 14.5, with a 2.75" wide port and a square port length 2 of 24". On the re site it specs out to 2.338 cubes @ 29.18hz Does this look good for the flat response?

EDIT: this does not account for double baffle, i will make adjustments just want to see if the basic layout and volume and tuning looks good.

Its quite odd that steve miller recommended me to build 2 cubes net for each sub. you would think he should know the driver really preforms in a smaller enclosure, he also told me to use half the port area but i ignored him lol.

Im still going to experiment with my enclosure for a single 12 just to see what i like the best. i may build the box calculated for flattest response and build a second based off of my experimentation. I have some time coming up and mdf is relatively cheap in the ca world so i think i want to learn and see some things first hard.

Ill start a thread in about a week when i start building. ill post it in the build log section i guess.
No, I would never let go of your aspirations of getting over 145, it's certainly possible. I would just go with someone else's guidance to achieve that.

Based on the type of driver it is and the market niche it was intended for, I'm sure Steve told you to use the Alpha in 2 cubes to get you the most output for your dollar.

Regarding extreme dimensions for enclosures, it's like this. Long dimensions set up standing waves and if you build a tall, slim tower speaker you can end up with a standing wave for the half wavelength on the longest measurement. That will also have a large impact on the fundamental frequency response according to the quarter wavelength dimension and the 3rd, 5th, 7th, and 9th harmonics of that fundamental. The short answer is that for subwoofer applications, you won't have to worry about it because you're not likely to encounter any lengths long enough to have any impact on the frequencies within the pass band for the system. Build whatever size and shape you want.

I think it's great that you intend to build a number of different enclosures because as the old cliche goes, there's no teacher like experience.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

mendon mafia

10+ year member
`94 caprice, 15" Fi BTL
Thread starter
mendon mafia
Joined
Location
Cocoa Beach, FL
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
95
Views
4,946
Last reply date
Last reply from
mendon mafia
IMG_20260516_193114554_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_20260516_192955471_HDR.jpg

sherbanater

    May 16, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top