grounding *pics*

Seriously man.....just spend $4 on a can of rustoleum and be done with it.
I've found stuff like Caig's De-Oxit works the best on keeping ground connections spotless...used that stuff on the antenna mounts and the chassis RF bonding, and it's worked excellently //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
I've found stuff like Caig's De-Oxit works the best on keeping ground connections spotless...used that stuff on the antenna mounts and the chassis RF bonding, and it's worked excellently //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Good to know. Is it a paint or just a clear spray.?? Also, can it be found anywhere??

 
I thought for systems under 300 W you can just ground to solid metal of the chassis, but for over 300 W, run the ground to the neg. side of the battery.

 
Good to know. Is it a paint or just a clear spray.?? Also, can it be found anywhere??
It's a spray...most electronics-type places (e.g, not Radioshack //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif) should stock it.

 
Grounding to the frame is the equivalent of a 1/0awg (more or less, depending on your specific vehicle) ground return to the battery...so unless you're running a shitload of current draw, you'd be fine grounding through the chassis.

However, with all these plastic vehicles and unibody construction in newer cars, getting a decent chassis ground is harder and harder //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 
So when in doubt or if you have problems locating an acceptable ground, you always have the option of running your ground to the neg. side of the battery. This will be overdoing for most but you'll have a low resistance.

 
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