Grounding multiple amps

[bryce-man 10+ year member]

yeah resistance goes up.. so just do multiple runs of phatty wire:santa:

 

[AudioAnonymous 10+ year member]

you might wanna shorten them

No thanks. They work just fine the way they are.

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

The longer a wire, the more resistance it has. When a current flows through a resistance, a voltage drop is produced. Because of this, the ground reference at the amplifier's circuit board is no longer the same as that at the chassis of the vehicle. This ground potential differential can lead to noise and improper operation of the amp. it is best to keep you ground as short as possible. not saying it cant be long, but the longer, the bigger the wire, the more money. if you can, get it as short as possible

Yet again, you are an imbicile.

thanks alot
i was talking about the battery under your hood.

i was just wondering, good info.

No. No it's not good info, he is WRONG.

what advice can you give??
bood idea or bad to hook up the ground to battery under your hood.

I think blackbonnie has a good point, that why whan you buy a grounding kit it only comes with 5 feet of ground wire.

Personally, I think it is a waste of wire unless you are trying for that extra .1dB

Grounding to the actual battery itself is even better than ground to the chassis. It gives you a DIRECT path to the battery (and alternator if the big3 is completed).

Unlike when you ground to the chassis, when the reference point of ground in the front... and ground in the rear can differ. There is MUCH more resistance in the chassis itself... current has to travel through the entire body of the vehicle... through shoddy welds... and sometimes piant/undercoat.

Grounding to the battery gives you the EXACT same reference point of ground as the battery itself (power source) AND alternator (again, if you've completed the big three).

The resistance of the wire itself is neglible, considering it has less resistance than the entirely different reference point of ground to the chassis in the rear.

Why do you think dBDrag competitors run dozens of runs of positive AND negative to the rear of their vehicle? You think they would do all the negatives if they could just get the equivalent by running a dozen chassis grounds to some point on the body of the car itself in the rear?

This is why I hate r-tards. Especially giving advice.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

 

[blackbonnie 5,000+ posts]

Yet again, you are an imbicile.


No. No it's not good info, he is WRONG.

Personally, I think it is a waste of wire unless you are trying for that extra .1dB

Grounding to the actual battery itself is even better than ground to the chassis. It gives you a DIRECT path to the battery (and alternator if the big3 is completed).

Unlike when you ground to the chassis, when the reference point of ground in the front... and ground in the rear can differ. There is MUCH more resistance in the chassis itself... current has to travel through the entire body of the vehicle... through shoddy welds... and sometimes piant/undercoat.

Grounding to the battery gives you the EXACT same reference point of ground as the battery itself (power source) AND alternator (again, if you've completed the big three).

The resistance of the wire itself is neglible, considering it has less resistance than the entirely different reference point of ground to the chassis in the rear.

Why do you think dBDrag competitors run dozens of runs of positive AND negative to the rear of their vehicle? You think they would do all the negatives if they could just get the equivalent by running a dozen chassis grounds to some point on the body of the car itself in the rear?

This is why I hate r-tards. Especially giving advice.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

i was wrong, you explained it well. i should have thought a little more about it and maybe done some more research. nG changed my opinion. i like the way you explained that, and thank you for helping everyone out. nG, go with his info. alot better then mine. sorry everyone

 

[iagrdshaka 5,000+ posts]

lol

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

pwnt

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

At least he manned up instead of getting all hostile.

Props.

nG

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

At least he manned up instead of getting all hostile.
Props.

nG

yah, no shit...

 

[BlackMaxima 10+ year member]

Yet again, you are an imbicile.


No. No it's not good info, he is WRONG.

Personally, I think it is a waste of wire unless you are trying for that extra .1dB

Grounding to the actual battery itself is even better than ground to the chassis. It gives you a DIRECT path to the battery (and alternator if the big3 is completed).

Unlike when you ground to the chassis, when the reference point of ground in the front... and ground in the rear can differ. There is MUCH more resistance in the chassis itself... current has to travel through the entire body of the vehicle... through shoddy welds... and sometimes piant/undercoat.

Grounding to the battery gives you the EXACT same reference point of ground as the battery itself (power source) AND alternator (again, if you've completed the big three).

The resistance of the wire itself is neglible, considering it has less resistance than the entirely different reference point of ground to the chassis in the rear.

Why do you think dBDrag competitors run dozens of runs of positive AND negative to the rear of their vehicle? You think they would do all the negatives if they could just get the equivalent by running a dozen chassis grounds to some point on the body of the car itself in the rear?

This is why I hate r-tards. Especially giving advice.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

nG

nice info thanks alot.

im no doing it for the .1db's, i wanna get a better grounding for the amps.

sice i have to run a power wire from the trunk to the hood ill just run a ground wire with it and hook it up to the battery. And yes i will do the BIG3 with the same size wires 1/0 knukonceptz wires + a yellow top battery

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Indeed.

Like I said, it's not going to be a HUGE noticeable difference. It's more for piece of mind, or that last .1dB, or if you can afford it... do it.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

nG

 

[95Prober 10+ year member]

so there is no power loss issues with running your long ground wire from the trunk to the battery under your hood, rather than a short 18" piece of 0/1 guage to the chassis in the trunk???

currently, i got the 18" grounded in the trunk to the chassis.

what if i took that off and ran 4 guage to the battery?

got a coupe extra runs, plus its way cheaper than another run of 0/1 guage

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Like I said, daily driving... the difference is more than likely negligible.

Currently in my truck, I have triple 1/0 direct frame grounds that are then undercoated in the front. Then I have triple 1/0 direct frame grounds in the rear for the rear batteries, on the same frame rail... undercoated as well.

nG

 

[jacka 10+ year member]

i dont know why, but my voltage drops were greater when i grounded 1/0 straight to the battery negative than they were grounded to the chassis. any explanation?

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

i dont know why, but my voltage drops were greater when i grounded 1/0 straight to the battery negative than they were grounded to the chassis. any explanation?

Did you do the big three. You still need a chassis ground up front @ the battery.

nG

 

[jacka 10+ year member]

yeah i did it all in 1/0 also. battery is also grounded to the chassis