Ground location suggestions - photos included

[kero48]

^^ So does that mean a strut tower is out of the question for grounding? Where did you find that info, lol.

I posted some of the setting in my first post, I might have forgotten to add but the amp is set to LPF 80. It does not have a HPF. Bass boost off. Based on another post I made yesterday assume a slope of 24db but originally it was set as 12db.

The gain was set manually for the time being to about 60%. There is some driver movement but not a hell of alot. If I lower the gain at lets say volume 20, the sub does less and practically can't be heard. Maybe the gain is to low but I would like to get the ground issue resolved before anything else.

The amp getting warm was just a possible indicator to the gent a sundown that maybe the ground was poorly done which he was right on and everyone here.

I removed the ground today and unhooked the sub completely until I redo the ground, which I hope I can do in the next few days.

Man I wish one you guys were local to help with the gain as one place I stopped at wanted $100 to do the oscilloscope (spelling?). I know I can probably do it via dmm but I am kinda new to this stuff.

 

[los33]

Don't know if trolling or drunk
I have 3 grounds going to the battery from the engine, alternator, and frame. Each seperate

Adulbrich has two alternators.

Each seperate. He has a battery bank which is all directly grounded to the engine.

So 2+ grounds to the engine from the bank and only 1 run from engine to battery.

This is what im trying to make him understand is the more electrical "flow" AMPERAGE easiest to say to the engine will need more grounds to the frame.

You cant just ground all your power to engine without compensating the ground from engine to frame.

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[Tripn88]

^^ So does that mean a strut tower is out of the question for grounding? Where did you find that info, lol.
I posted some of the setting in my first post, I might have forgotten to add but the amp is set to LPF 80. It does not have a HPF. Bass boost off. Based on another post I made yesterday assume a slope of 24db but originally it was set as 12db.

The gain was set manually for the time being to about 60%. There is some driver movement but not a hell of alot. If I lower the gain at lets say volume 20, the sub does less and practically can't be heard. Maybe the gain is to low but I would like to get the ground issue resolved before anything else.

The amp getting warm was just a possible indicator to the gent a sundown that maybe the ground was poorly done which he was right on and everyone here.

I removed the ground today and unhooked the sub completely until I redo the ground, which I hope I can do in the next few days.

Man I wish one you guys were local to help with the gain as one place I stopped at wanted $100 to do the oscilloscope (spelling?). I know I can probably do it via dmm but I am kinda new to this stuff.

It's not out of the question strut tower will be better than what you have now. I found the info on some random subie forums.

Your gain at 60% is probably the main cause for your hot amp. Most likely clipping it. I bet if you can find someone with an oscope to help you set the gain it won't be as warm.

 

[kero48]

In addition to your guys help, I posted just now on rs25.com, the specific forum site for my car type. Let's see what they advise.

I am not really concerned about the amp being warm, I just want the sub to do it's thing. I can't imagine at 60% I would be clipping if the rms is well matched between amp and sub but again, I am no expert.

The temp sub I advised earlier used with same amp had no issues whatsoever, that is also confusing me. Gauge of wire was less and was grounded to the same spot and it really worked well. I was so excited to finally install the sundown as based on videos, these little guys really can thump.

I can't see myself paying $100 for someone to do the scope. I am def on a very tight budget.

I wonder if I have that guy swing by with the temp sub, if that will work as good as it did before we did the 4 gauge wire. Might be a good experiment.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

..... So we all should ground straight to the engine and not engine to battery right?
I mean common now our little rubber mounts on the engine grounds the engine so good.

Somehow i must of not realized this sooner!

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You're being stupid right now...

My battery bank is connected DIRECTLY to the alternator. NOT just generally on the engine block or ANYWHERE on the frame whatsoever. My battery bank and amp are not grounded directly to the frame.

To answer the bolded question, my batteries are connected to the alternator...... there is no mysterious "flow" going through my engine. The amp is grounded to my battery bank, not to the engine.

Adulbrich has two alternators.
Each seperate. He has a battery bank which is all directly grounded to the engine.

So 2+ grounds to the engine from the bank and only 1 run from engine to battery.

This is what im trying to make him understand is the more electrical "flow" AMPERAGE easiest to say to the engine will need more grounds to the frame.

You cant just ground all your power to engine without compensating the ground from engine to frame.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

Wrong.

I have one ground wire from the battery bank to the alternator case... not two...

I have one positive wire from the alternator going back to the battery bank.

I do not need any more grounds to the frame. All engine/frame/whatever grounds were left stock, because my sub amp is not connected to the stock electrical system....

My amp is not grounded to the frame.

I don't understand why this concept is so difficult for you.

You really don't get it.

 

[Tripn88]

Also I don't think that 80hz +2 is the slope. That's your EQ. Guess you have 80, 100, 120, 1k, 5k or something along those lines? Maybe your lpf and subsonic aren't set right on the amp. That's why your not getting much out of it.

On my amp both current 15.1 and memphis 500 my gain was less than half. Closer to 25%. You need to match the voltage from headunit. If you look all the way to the left is maybe 9v all the way to the right is .5v. Your could be different. But if you set it at 9v that means it would take 9 volts from your headunit to have the amp put out full power. If you set it at .5 that means it would only take .5 to play at full power. Now when you put it at .5 and your headunit is at volume 3 and your subs at full tilt when you turn your headunit up past that your clipping and that's causing the excessive heat....

 

[bigfluke 773]

Do you realize why our engines have to be grounded?
Grounding batteries straight to engine aka alt bracket leaves all the flow in the engine.

You have to account for the flow and add more grounds to the frame or battery from the engine..

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..... So we all should ground straight to the engine and not engine to battery right?
I mean common now our little rubber mounts on the engine grounds the engine so good.

Somehow i must of not realized this sooner!

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

Adulbrich has two alternators.
Each seperate. He has a battery bank which is all directly grounded to the engine.

So 2+ grounds to the engine from the bank and only 1 run from engine to battery.

This is what im trying to make him understand is the more electrical "flow" AMPERAGE easiest to say to the engine will need more grounds to the frame.

You cant just ground all your power to engine without compensating the ground from engine to frame.

Sent from my draconis using Tapatalk

What in the **** are you talking about. Please stop.

 

[los33]

What in the **** are you talking about. Please stop.

Fuccn idiiots here

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[kero48]

Also I don't think that 80hz +2 is the slope. That's your EQ. Guess you have 80, 100, 120, 1k, 5k or something along those lines? Maybe your lpf and subsonic aren't set right on the amp. That's why your not getting much out of it.

On my amp both current 15.1 and memphis 500 my gain was less than half. Closer to 25%. You need to match the voltage from headunit. If you look all the way to the left is maybe 9v all the way to the right is .5v. Your could be different. But if you set it at 9v that means it would take 9 volts from your headunit to have the amp put out full power. If you set it at .5 that means it would only take .5 to play at full power. Now when you put it at .5 and your headunit is at volume 3 and your subs at full tilt when you turn your headunit up past that your clipping and that's causing the excessive heat....

clarification: my head unit subwoofer #2 setting (pioneer deh-3300ub) is set to 80 then a +2 after it. loudness is off. the lpf setting on amp is set to 80. slope on amp was originally at 12db.

amp was warm not crazy hot

so i will first redo ground and lower the gain to maybe 1/4 and see what happens.

if i seem frustrated i am sorry bout that but i am as the temp setup with same settings made the sundown look like a toy and we know the sundown should spank the audiopipe

 

[Tripn88]

Yeah that's the EQ. Go through your settings and make sure .... Dammit i forgot which setting it is. But it has off, normal, and reverse. I think it needs to be off. I had the same problem till I found that setting. Maybe sw1. Not sure.

 

[kero48]

yes that is subwoofer #1 setting. currently at normal. it has the options u mention

 

[Tripn88]

yes that is subwoofer #1 setting. currently at normal. it has the options u mention

Have you tried all 3 options to see which is loudest. You might be right having it set at normal.

 

[kero48]

based on the manual online. i believe normal would be the correct setting. if u turn it off i think it turns off the output to the amp as the hu only has one set of rca hookups. its settable to be on or off if that makes sense. i really do not like this hu rofl. it has no hpf.

dont have $$ for a new one at this time. speakers sound great though hahaha no issue there

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

What in the **** are you talking about. Please stop.

This^

Fuccn idiiots here
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Explain "flow" in detail for those of us who aren't so knowledgeable

 

[Tripn88]

based on the manual online. i believe normal would be the correct setting. if u turn it off i think it turns off the output to the amp as the hu only has one set of rca hookups. its settable to be on or off if that makes sense. i really do not like this hu rofl. it has no hpf.
dont have $$ for a new one at this time. speakers sound great though hahaha no issue there

Actually set it to off and see what happens. You have to turn the headunit off then go into those options to turn the rca outputs off. BECAUSE YOU Can change it from subwoofer outputs to rear outputs. I'm like 85% sure it should be set to off.

*edit* Never mind ignore that I read the manual. I think your right. My bad lol and idk why that was in all caps.