Zavenoa
Junior Member
I'm having major problems getting my Mono Amp to work properly, it turns on and then almost immediately turns off sometimes. I thought it was an issue with the ground, so I regrounded it and it worked fine, but now it's doing it again. On top of the sub amp not working, my speakers put out a high pitch buzzing, which does not happen when the sub amp is working. Here's the current setup in my 2010 Toyota Corolla:
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Component Speakers: Polk DB6501
Rear Speakers: Polk DB691
4 Channel Speaker Amp: Pioneer GM-6500F (760w max output)
10" Subs: Infinity Reference 1062w
Mono Sub Amp: AudioPipe AP15001D (1500w max output)
Wiring: 0/1 gauge power split to 2x 4 gauge, 2x 4 gauge grounds, 16 gauge remote (only wire in the system that is NOT OFC)
I mounted my amps on the back of my backseats. This was how I mounted my last system in my other car and it worked great. I tested everything after I got it all put back together and it was working fine, but no matter where I ground this AudioPipe Amp the same problem seems to occur after a little while. The Pioneer Amp is working great, I haven't had any issues with that. I thought at first it was the terminals that the AudioPipe Amp uses, they are very poorly designed at a 45deg angle towards the floor. If they had them at a 90deg angle facing away from the sub, it wouldn't be a problem. Right now I'm using 4g fork terminals that fit inside there, it was the only thing I could find in 4g that would actually work, aside from just smashing a 4g ring terminal to make it fit.
Here is the power, ground and remote inputs on the amp.
Here is the opposite side of the amp with all of the dials.
This is ground for the AudioPipe amp, it's grounded underneath a bar that supports the seat backs, I used a dremel to sand and polish both the back of the bar and the surface of the car to remove all of the paint.
This was my original ground. I started having this issue while it was grounded here.
This is where the Pioneer amp is grounded, again I haven't had any problems with that amp.
Here is the connection to my battery, I have a 300amp ANL Fuse in-line. This cable runs to a distribution block that splits it into 2 4 gauge wires and I have 2 150 amp Mini-ANL fuses in it.
Here is a picture of the wiring under the backseat. Dunno if this will help, but I figured I'd include it.
I went through the manual for the amp and in the troubleshooting section it has my issue listed, this is what it says:
Problem
The amplifier switches on and off.
Solution
I think that solution is actually supposed to be 4 different things, but that's exactly how it's written. I think it should be:
I've double checked each of those things, my remote wire is good, I'm getting a pretty solid 12v, but it fluctuates by plus or minus a volt, which I believe is normal, same thing with the power, steady 12v. The terminals connecting the ground to the amp are solid and there isn't anything blocking the connection, and my battery terminal isn't corroded or oxidized.
The only thing it could still be is the ground to the car OR my Corolla just can't handle the drain the 2 amps are putting on it. When the subs have been working, I've noticed SLIGHT headlight dimming, but not enough to really even bother me. The AudioPipe amp had a sticker on it when I got it that said you needed to connect it with a minimum of a 1 farad capacitor, but everything I've read says those are a waste of time and money to install. I plan on doing my big 3 upgrade soon and I'd also like to upgrade my alternator when I can. For now, I just want to get this amp working.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if you need any more info/pics let me know. I'm going to try and reply to this to post more pics if the forum lets me.
Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS
Front Component Speakers: Polk DB6501
Rear Speakers: Polk DB691
4 Channel Speaker Amp: Pioneer GM-6500F (760w max output)
10" Subs: Infinity Reference 1062w
Mono Sub Amp: AudioPipe AP15001D (1500w max output)
Wiring: 0/1 gauge power split to 2x 4 gauge, 2x 4 gauge grounds, 16 gauge remote (only wire in the system that is NOT OFC)
I mounted my amps on the back of my backseats. This was how I mounted my last system in my other car and it worked great. I tested everything after I got it all put back together and it was working fine, but no matter where I ground this AudioPipe Amp the same problem seems to occur after a little while. The Pioneer Amp is working great, I haven't had any issues with that. I thought at first it was the terminals that the AudioPipe Amp uses, they are very poorly designed at a 45deg angle towards the floor. If they had them at a 90deg angle facing away from the sub, it wouldn't be a problem. Right now I'm using 4g fork terminals that fit inside there, it was the only thing I could find in 4g that would actually work, aside from just smashing a 4g ring terminal to make it fit.
Here is the power, ground and remote inputs on the amp.
Here is the opposite side of the amp with all of the dials.
This is ground for the AudioPipe amp, it's grounded underneath a bar that supports the seat backs, I used a dremel to sand and polish both the back of the bar and the surface of the car to remove all of the paint.
This was my original ground. I started having this issue while it was grounded here.
This is where the Pioneer amp is grounded, again I haven't had any problems with that amp.
Here is the connection to my battery, I have a 300amp ANL Fuse in-line. This cable runs to a distribution block that splits it into 2 4 gauge wires and I have 2 150 amp Mini-ANL fuses in it.
Here is a picture of the wiring under the backseat. Dunno if this will help, but I figured I'd include it.
I went through the manual for the amp and in the troubleshooting section it has my issue listed, this is what it says:
Problem
The amplifier switches on and off.
Solution
- Bad chassis ground connection with amplifier cable terminals and battery terminals are oxidized low voltage from the battery remote wire is connected wrong.
I think that solution is actually supposed to be 4 different things, but that's exactly how it's written. I think it should be:
- Bad chassis ground connection with amplifier cable terminals
- Battery terminals are oxidized
- Low voltage from the battery
- Remote wire is connected wrong
I've double checked each of those things, my remote wire is good, I'm getting a pretty solid 12v, but it fluctuates by plus or minus a volt, which I believe is normal, same thing with the power, steady 12v. The terminals connecting the ground to the amp are solid and there isn't anything blocking the connection, and my battery terminal isn't corroded or oxidized.
The only thing it could still be is the ground to the car OR my Corolla just can't handle the drain the 2 amps are putting on it. When the subs have been working, I've noticed SLIGHT headlight dimming, but not enough to really even bother me. The AudioPipe amp had a sticker on it when I got it that said you needed to connect it with a minimum of a 1 farad capacitor, but everything I've read says those are a waste of time and money to install. I plan on doing my big 3 upgrade soon and I'd also like to upgrade my alternator when I can. For now, I just want to get this amp working.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, and if you need any more info/pics let me know. I'm going to try and reply to this to post more pics if the forum lets me.