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[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

off-axis means you are closer to 90 degrees relative to the centerline of the woofer - i.e. it is aimed away from you.

on-axis means you are closer to centerline of the wooofer - i.e. it is aimed at you.

all speakers have substantial high frequency roll-off when off-axis.

you can put them in the dash (and lose visibility as well as cut the dash) or you can put them in the kicks. you have plenty of kick space once you relocate some of that crap down there (behind the kick panels). i vote kicks - plenty of room to make them work and give the woofers lots of airspace so the f3 point is lower. also, you improve ITD so you are less reliant on T/A

 

[West]

off-axis means you are closer to 90 degrees relative to the centerline of the woofer - i.e. it is aimed away from you.
on-axis means you are closer to centerline of the wooofer - i.e. it is aimed at you.

all speakers have substantial high frequency roll-off when off-axis.

you can put them in the dash (and lose visibility as well as cut the dash) or you can put them in the kicks. you have plenty of kick space once you relocate some of that crap down there (behind the kick panels). i vote kicks - plenty of room to make them work and give the woofers lots of airspace so the f3 point is lower. also, you improve ITD so you are less reliant on T/A

How do I give the woofers more air space? I should leave the 6.5'' in the door correct?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

there is no shortage of airspace in the door - there is actually too much since the volume greatly exceedes the air spring compliance air volume resulting in a "free air" configuration.

when you're in there, i recommend adding PVC encased fiberglass batt in the cavity (see build log), that really did wonders for me.

 

[Alrojoca 10+ year member]

Just my 2 cents here, you probably need an extra 2 channel amp to drive the tweeters and mids separate for an better active set up or drive the 6 1/2 inch drivers with a separate 2 ch amp to take full advantage of the hat components and the PR99RS.

The tweeters and mids should be pointing towards the center between the 2 front seats for a better stage. Focals may sound better if highs are close to mids and even the 6 inch drivers.

The hat one not so much. In any situation your head unit has plenty Of bands, like 32 bands per ch for EQ, and a time delay, the time delay will help correct any on axis or off axiss or any issues related to the distance between the drivers with any set you pick.

Have fun! And good luck!

 

[West]

Just my 2 cents here, you probably need an extra 2 channel amp to drive the tweeters and mids separate for an better active set up or drive the 6 1/2 inch drivers with a separate 2 ch amp to take full advantage of the hat components and the PR99RS.
The tweeters and mids should be pointing towards the center between the 2 front seats for a better stage. Focals may sound better if highs are close to mids and even the 6 inch drivers.

The hat one not so much. In any situation your head unit has plenty Of bands, like 32 bands per ch for EQ, and a time delay, the time delay will help correct any on axis or off axiss or any issues related to the distance between the drivers with any set you pick.

Have fun! And good luck!

Would a Mcc406m (mcintosh-6channel) not cut the cheese for an amp?

 

[West]

Does anyone think ti would help if I used the McIntosh 4 channel (bridged for the 6.5'') and the Mc 6 channel (for the mids and tweeter, in bridged mode for 4 channel operation)? Would there be a big advantage there? I already have the amps, so whatever would work best is the way I'll go... I think that would be a TON of power lol

Even if it means upgrading the alternator.

 

[West]

Any thoughts?

 

[West]

@quackhead ;

 

[West]

@av83 ; @pro\-rabbit ;

What do you think?

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Does anyone think ti would help if I used the McIntosh 4 channel (bridged for the 6.5'') and the Mc 6 channel (for the mids and tweeter, in bridged mode for 4 channel operation)? Would there be a big advantage there? I already have the amps, so whatever would work best is the way I'll go... I think that would be a TON of power lol
Even if it means upgrading the alternator.

didn't read the thread, but you are wanting to bridge the 4ch on a pair of 6.5 mids and use a 6ch for another set of mids and a set of tweets?

 

[West]

didn't read the thread, but you are wanting to bridge the 4ch on a pair of 6.5 mids and use a 6ch for another set of mids and a set of tweets?

yup the 4 channel is (100x4 @ 4ohm - bridged would be 200x2 @ 4) - 6.5 mids

the 6 channel would be (50x4 @ 4 + 100x2 @ 4 so bridging the 50's would be 100x4) - 3.5'' mids and a pair of tweets

Would it be worth doing? Or should I just use the 6 channel as is w/o the 4 channel?

 

[av83 10+ year member]

[quote name='West']@av83 ; @pro\-rabbit ;

What do you think?[/QUOTE]

I think that you are going to have a very, very loud 3way setup, is what i think, lol. ...I have 100-120 rms going to each tweeter, and each mid, and its stupid loud. I'm pretty darn happy with what I'm getting out of my simple 5 speaker system, so I'm very hesitant to give you advice. I have different expectations than you, too. I sought sql on a budget, and found it. Your goals are different than mine.

 

[West]

I think that you are going to have a very, very loud 3way setup, is what i think, lol. ...I have 100-120 rms going to each tweeter, and each mid, and its stupid loud. I'm pretty darn happy with what I'm getting out of my simple 5 speaker system, so I'm very hesitant to give you advice. I have different expectations than you, too. I sought sql on a budget, and found it. Your goals are different than mine.

I like it loud, but not REALLY loud lol. Just was wondering if the sound quality would be better (maybe some more headroom?) dont know...

 

[av83 10+ year member]

yup the 4 channel is (100x4 @ 4ohm - bridged would be 200x2 @ 4) - 6.5 midsthe 6 channel would be (50x4 @ 4 + 100x2 @ 4 so bridging the 50's would be 100x4) - 3.5'' mids and a pair of tweets

Would it be worth doing? Or should I just use the 6 channel as is w/o the 4 channel?

are you sure about those specs? bridged output is usually closer to double the 2 ohm specs per channel. bu teven if it is what you say it is, that a shitload of power... Better get some speakers that can handle it if you plan on using all that juice.

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Would it be worth doing? Or should I just use the 6 channel as is w/o the 4 channel?

I'd do it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif