Going Active

[West]

I had a few quick questions about going active. I have an MCC406M comming which is 6 channels (4x50w and 2x100w at 4ohm. Will this be enough power to drive a 3 way active setup for most components like the Legatia SE VI (Stage VI - Legatia SE - The Home of the World's Finest Loudspeakers, and World Championship Car Audio Speaker Systems.) or Hertz hi energy?

Any other relevant info would be appreicated. And how I should set my gains?

Would the best configuration be:

Tweeter @50w

Mid @50w

Mid/sub @100w

Thanks guys.

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[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

No super tweet! Mid woofer, mid, tweet... That will probably be fine for power since they are rated at 12 volts as well...

 

[West]

No super tweet! Mid woofer' date=' mid, tweet... That will probably be fine for power since they are rated at 12 volts as well...[/quote']
Shows how much I know about active >.

Fixed my op...

 

[av83 10+ year member]

3 way on your first active setup?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif Respect.

 

[West]

3 way on your first active setup?

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif Respect.

Appreicate that ^^.

This is gonna destroy my wallet lmao...

Gotta go big or go home at this point. Once this is done, its done, not gonna touch it for a few years...

 

[av83 10+ year member]

Appreicate that ^^.This is gonna destroy my wallet lmao...

Gotta go big or go home at this point. Once this is done, its done, not gonna touch it for a few years...

Lol, i almost put something in that post about not knowing whether to respect or feel sorry for your wallet, as well, lol...

I just went active yesterday, but I did it with some used cdt's i got off here a few months ago. Sounds way more expensive than it was. I have zero doubts now that proper installation>spending loads of cash. ...although spending loads of cash does help.

 

[West]

Lol, i almost put something in that post about not knowing whether to respect or feel sorry for your wallet, as well, lol...
I just went active yesterday, but I did it with some used cdt's i got off here a few months ago. Sounds way more expensive than it was. I have zero doubts now that proper installation>spending loads of cash. ...although spending loads of cash does help.

Speakers are the only things I would prefer to buy new. BUT if a tasty set of 3 ways come up on the classifieds I'd snatch em up.

 

[gunz4me2 10+ year member]

I'd suggest starting out with a matched set for your first adventure into 3-way active. Something like the Precision Power PC3.65C would be a good set to cut your teeth on. Only after you get a knack for messing around with crossover points and coming up with shortcomings you wish to improve upon would I suggest DIYing 3-way plus sub active. A properly set up 3-way active system will easily outperform many 2-way active setups. The only hard thing is setting up the proper 3-way from a DIY, raw driver choice perspective and finding suitable locations for the drivers.

Then again, I spent a lot of time, money, and effort the last time I did a DIY 2 way active set. I went through at least 3 component sets prior to looking at the specs of raw drivers and figuring out what would work in a sealed factory pod and a 6x8 infinite baffle location. Never did I think that a Mach5 Audio MLI-65 mated with a Tang Band W4-1757SB would outperform CDT, Alpine Type R, and Pioneer Premier Components. IMHO the CDT and Type R comps had terrible 6.5" drivers with a so so tweeter. The Pioneer premier components were midbass champions in the Shaker 500 8" pod, but came with a not so great tweeter.

Now, to change it up, going with HAT drivers from the get go is not a bad idea. I even considered running the L6v2 in my WRX, but figured I would try these Genesis components or Soundstream Reference 3-ways in 2 way mode since they are collecting dust anyway. I don't care for the HAT ring radiator tweeter and would much rather use one of these, aimed slightly off axis: Madisound Speaker Store, Madisound Speaker Store or Madisound Speaker Store

Of course, that is just my personal preference because I am overly sensitive to frequencies in a particular range and they trigger a bad case of tinnitus. Once the ringing starts, I shut the music off all together.

 

[West]

I'd suggest starting out with a matched set for your first adventure into 3-way active. Something like the Precision Power PC3.65C would be a good set to cut your teeth on. Only after you get a knack for messing around with crossover points and coming up with shortcomings you wish to improve upon would I suggest DIYing 3-way plus sub active. A properly set up 3-way active system will easily outperform many 2-way active setups. The only hard thing is setting up the proper 3-way from a DIY, raw driver choice perspective and finding suitable locations for the drivers.
Then again, I spent a lot of time, money, and effort the last time I did a DIY 2 way active set. I went through at least 3 component sets prior to looking at the specs of raw drivers and figuring out what would work in a sealed factory pod and a 6x8 infinite baffle location. Never did I think that a Mach5 Audio MLI-65 mated with a Tang Band W4-1757SB would outperform CDT, Alpine Type R, and Pioneer Premier Components. IMHO the CDT and Type R comps had terrible 6.5" drivers with a so so tweeter. The Pioneer premier components were midbass champions in the Shaker 500 8" pod, but came with a not so great tweeter.

Now, to change it up, going with HAT drivers from the get go is not a bad idea. I even considered running the L6v2 in my WRX, but figured I would try these Genesis components or Soundstream Reference 3-ways in 2 way mode since they are collecting dust anyway. I don't care for the HAT ring radiator tweeter and would much rather use one of these, aimed slightly off axis: Madisound Speaker Store, Madisound Speaker Store or Madisound Speaker Store

Of course, that is just my personal preference because I am overly sensitive to frequencies in a particular range and they trigger a bad case of tinnitus. Once the ringing starts, I shut the music off all together.

Really appreciate the advice. I am looking at 165KRX3 3 WAYS FOCAL NEW 6.5" KRX3 COMPONENT SPEAKERS K2 POWER on ebay... think I can get em for around 900... would that be a good set to start with?

Do you think I have a good possibility of damaging the speakers and thats why I should work my way up?

Those madison speakers are really affordable... think you could suggest a nice three way mix for me from there?

Sorry for all the questions.

 

[Bettr n' Revrse 5,000+ posts]

You could make a really nice set from Madisound

 

[West]

You could make a really nice set from Madisound

The prices are REALLY attractive, I'll give it a shot...

If you had my setup in a 99camry what would be your setup from Madisound? I'll try to put one together for you guys to critique.

 

[West]

Madisound Speaker Store

Madisound Speaker Store

Madisound Speaker Store

That's my affordable selection. Not sure how they preform individually.

 

[West]

You could make a really nice set from Madisound

I wrote them what I was looking for... lets see if they reply.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

You can't go wrong with HAT.

You can certainly build a nice Scanspeak set from Madisound.

Dayton Reference series is a nice place to start.

Morel is another good choice.

Base your decision on the locations, aiming, and airspace.

For example; my kicks have a natural roll off at 3kHz when off-axis. On-axis response extends above 12khz with the same drivers (Dayton RS100 are 80Hz-20kHz). But off-axis they are not locatable, you'd never know they were there, everything is above the dash. On-axis they can be located at times. I will experiment with different angles and see if I can increase response to 5kHz while not being locatable.

Tympanny/Peerless is another decent option.

 

[West]

You can't go wrong with HAT.
You can certainly build a nice Scanspeak set from Madisound.

Dayton Reference series is a nice place to start.

Morel is another good choice.

Base your decision on the locations, aiming, and airspace.

For example; my kicks have a natural roll off at 3kHz when off-axis. On-axis response extends above 12khz with the same drivers (Dayton RS100 are 80Hz-20kHz). But off-axis they are not locatable, you'd never know they were there, everything is above the dash. On-axis they can be located at times. I will experiment with different angles and see if I can increase response to 5kHz while not being locatable.

Tympanny/Peerless is another decent option.

I am going to have to do some more reading, I am rushing into this a bit. Is there any good literature you can suggest that would help guide me?

On-axis vs off-axis: At ear level vs. not at ear level?

My basic plan was to go with a three way system have the tweeter in the stock position in my car (99 camry) and have the mid in a custom built enclosure on the dash and have the woofer in the lower section of the door.