Going active on components...

[jerryp.]

Does anyone know a real benefit from going active instead of using the passive crossover that they came with? Right now I am wired bridged on a 4 channrl for 200 watts per side. I can biamp the crossovers but I felt a lot of power wasted and still didn't have much flexibility on the tweeters. If I go active I'd be doing 75watts per woofer and tweeter, would I have to add a capacitor to the tweeter? Or keep my hpf above a certain frequency? I just know they can go louder and idk if going

Active would give me that result...

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[Kingstroker 10+ year member]

what is your system specs?

 

[jerryp.]

I have a pair of rf t165-s components powered by a rf r400-4channel. they are rated at 80rms. I know I may be doing over kill having them bridged at 200rms but I'm not using the gain at all. The crossover has some decent options as for +- db for woofer or tweeter.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

If you're going to lose tuning options with your current equipment by going active then you might as well keep the passives. An active setup can really sound nicer if you have individual control over each driver.

If you power tweeters straight off an amplifier a capacitor should be wired inline for protection from turn-on and turn-off pops, plus any accidental crossover changes that would allow low frequencies to pass. The recommended capacitor is an axial electrolytic non-polarized 20 uF that is commonly available. This is not your crossover.

What head unit are you using?

 

[jerryp.]

If you're going to lose tuning options with your current equipment by going active then you might as well keep the passives. An active setup can really sound nicer if you have individual control over each driver.
If you power tweeters straight off an amplifier a capacitor should be wired inline for protection from turn-on and turn-off pops, plus any accidental crossover changes that would allow low frequencies to pass. The recommended capacitor is an axial electrolytic non-polarized 20 uF that is commonly available. This is not your crossover.

What head unit are you using?

I'm using an Alpine, its a 147bt. Pretty neat. And I have a 4 channel amp, i figure channel for woofers and a channel for tweeters. I had it bi-amp that way but distortion was high for some reason. And talking about pop on and off noise, I am getting that right now, with the passive crossovers hooked up. Can that damage tweeters in the long run?

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

I'm using an Alpine, its a 147bt. Pretty neat.

It does look neat, but it doesn't offer the crossover selection you need to run the mids and tweeters active. Your amplifier can't handle that adequately, either. This means you need to make some changes. You can either change the head unit to one that offers bandpass crossovers for the mids, change the amplifier for one with bandpass crossovers, or add a DSP equalizer with at least 4 channels. Usually the good ones have 8 channels. The one I recommend is the JBL MS-8, but there are others that will do the job for a similar price.

I had it bi-amp that way but distortion was high for some reason.

Are you boosting any frequencies with the equalizer on your 147BT? Have you ever checked the system with an oscilloscope?

And talking about pop on and off noise, I am getting that right now, with the passive crossovers hooked up. Can that damage tweeters in the long run?

The passive crossovers should be blocking the DC voltage that causes the popping. The pops can damage tweeters if they're loud enough. If it's been going on for a long time it may be a soft enough pop that it's just annoying, but it should still be fixed. Are you using the remote wire on the head unit to turn the amplifier on and off?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I would upgrade the amp. You want to be able to run more power to the mids then the tweeters. Does that HU offer a HPF? If so you can use a amp like my JL 450/4. Use the HU HPF to cut off the low end of the mid and bandpass the top end with the tweeter channels crossover. It sends 150 to the mid and 75 to the tweeter. A perfect combo

 

[jerryp.]

It does look neat, but it doesn't offer the crossover selection you need to run the mids and tweeters active. Your amplifier can't handle that adequately, either. This means you need to make some changes. You can either change the head unit to one that offers bandpass crossovers for the mids, change the amplifier for one with bandpass crossovers, or add a DSP equalizer with at least 4 channels. Usually the good ones have 8 channels. The one I recommend is the JBL MS-8, but there are others that will do the job for a similar price.

ahh okay, I get it. Well I just got the headset.. and well from the sounds of it and price wise, I'd just stick to the passive crossovers then lol. Thanks for making that straight forward.

Are you boosting any frequencies with the equalizer on your 147BT? Have you ever checked the system with an oscilloscope?

Everything on the HU is flat. The only thing I have set is for the front out crossover to 100hz with a slope of 6. I tuned it with a DMM and test tones. The gain is barely at 3. When I turn up the volume to near the tuned max, it distorts sometimes.

The passive crossovers should be blocking the DC voltage that causes the popping. The pops can damage tweeters if they're loud enough. If it's been going on for a long time it may be a soft enough pop that it's just annoying, but it should still be fixed. Are you using the remote wire on the head unit to turn the amplifier on and off?

I usually turn the HU volume all the way down before turning it off. When I do turn it on, it is a low soft pop, the kind you can produce with your finer nails. I am using the remote wire off the HU, running a single wire to the back and have it spliced to go into my mono and the 4channel

 

[jerryp.]

I would upgrade the amp. You want to be able to run more power to the mids then the tweeters. Does that HU offer a HPF? If so you can use a amp like my JL 450/4. Use the HU HPF to cut off the low end of the mid and bandpass the top end with the tweeter channels crossover.

I don't think it has a HPF. Maybe thats why I'm wrong to have the crossover set at 100. And since im using the passive crossovers I just have it on AP on the amp.

It sends 150 to the mid and 75 to the tweeter. A perfect combo

Not quite following you here, 150 to mid and 75 to tweeters?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

Not quite following you here, 150 to mid and 75 to tweeters?

150x2 and 75x2. What CO do you have set at 100hz?

 

[jerryp.]

150x2 and 75x2. What CO do you have set at 100hz?

okay, see and thats where I feel the passive crossovers are wasting watts. I guess i'd have to spend more for what I am trying to acheive, which will have to wait. One is never satisfied. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

Fronts on the HU crossover is set at 100, now I don't know if it is set as a LP or HP. It doesn't let me select an option, as stated by @trumpet my HU doesn't have the option.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

okay, see and thats where I feel the passive crossovers are wasting watts. I guess i'd have to spend more for what I am trying to acheive, which will have to wait. One is never satisfied. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif
Fronts on the HU crossover is set at 100, now I don't know if it is set as a LP or HP. It doesn't let me select an option, as stated by @trumpet my HU doesn't have the option.

Thats a HP. It cuts the mid off from playing to low. Stronger the mid and better the install you can CO lower. Most midranges dont do well under 100 no matter how good they are. Thats where a dedicated mid bass comes into play

 

[jerryp.]

Thats a HP. It cuts the mid off from playing to low. Stronger the mid and better the install you can CO lower. Most midranges dont do well under 100 no matter how good they are. Thats where a dedicated mid bass comes into play

so the fronts is a hp and 100hz is good? I have my sub at 63hz. Wouldn't there be too much of gap or does it produce that sweet spot?

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

so the fronts is a hp and 100hz is good? I have my sub at 63hz. Wouldn't there be too much of gap or does it produce that sweet spot?

That's normal unless you have a mid bass. Depending on tuning you could raise the sub up to help or it could make it muddy.