Gapped spider subwoofers

o wow i didnt realize this could be done just adding a spacer like that. dosnt the spider hit the cone at high excursion being so close to the base of the cone?
can this be done for all reconeable subs? I want subs like this they must sound great.
Well, with this particular driver the cone doesn't make contact with the spider until the edge of the cone touches the leads right near the terminals but that's well outside of the intended range of the driver. The thing about adding another spider is that it can also add more mechanical noise if it's done wrong. If you flip one of them so that they're mirrored, in theory you will cancel out any none linear restoring force that is applied and distortion will be lower. If you put both of them in the same orientation, you will double any noise associated with the spider and any non-linear force applied by the spider will remain.
my tc oem 10 has a very similar spacer, havent got to listen to it yet though:(
The spacer for the OEM is quite tall and I found that the cone makes very hard contact with the top spider under very high excursion. Because the surround is so thick on the OEM, I decided to remove the top spider on mine and the problem no longer exists. The partnership of the stiff surround and the single stiff spider is sufficient to keep the coil in perfect alignment for 3"+ of travel which I use for deep extension rather than high output. There are ramifications for doing this which involve lowering the mechanical power handling and impacting specs such as Cms, Qms/Qts and Vas. I do not advocate doing this, especially if you want to beat the living daylights out of it. I did it to have an overall softer suspension and to allow for more overall travel without the cone touching the spider. Fs was also shifted downward a bit.

 
Ok so that addresses my question about the cone hitting the spider. So basically to have a useful spaced spider design it is required for a "custom" basket and longer pole to keep the spiders away from the cone.
This is looking good. I think im going to start designing woofers. all i need to do is figure out the motors and im set lol. I could probably devise some really nice softpart and top assemblies combination's tho.
You could make a second spacer and raise the surround up as well. This would eliminate the rubber gasket without making a custom one... but would also allow the same cone to be used as without the spacer.

 
You could make a second spacer and raise the surround up as well. This would eliminate the rubber gasket without making a custom one... but would also allow the same cone to be used as without the spacer.
i dont think i fully understand what you mean. wouldnt this put the surround in tension? it also dosnt pull the cone any farther from the top spider.

 
def les noisie and no friction. the tc frames are great for use of a spider spacer because of all the clearence.

the set up in the pix is just a 4 spoke but has a special metal cone that is alot flater. if you were to drop a standard paper cone on there is wouldnt fit UNLESS you did what jake said and use a surrond riser...

 
def les noisie and no friction. the tc frames are great for use of a spider spacer because of all the clearence.
the set up in the pix is just a 4 spoke but has a special metal cone that is alot flater. if you were to drop a standard paper cone on there is wouldnt fit UNLESS you did what jake said and use a surrond riser...
i don't understand this surround riser. i understand what you mean by it now and what it does but doesn't this pull the coil up farther out of the gap? do you need a longer pole to compensate?

 
i dont think i fully understand what you mean. wouldnt this put the surround in tension? it also dosnt pull the cone any farther from the top spider.
It would move the cone farther from the spacer if you glue the cone farther up on the former. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Say you mill a 1/4" spacer for the surround, well when you assemble the soft parts you just move the cone up 1/4" higher on the former

That way you have extra clearance. The length of the coil and former won't change, you just change where the cone is glued to the former.

 
It would move the cone farther from the spacer if you glue the cone farther up on the former. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Say you mill a 1/4" spacer for the surround, well when you assemble the soft parts you just move the cone up 1/4" higher on the former

That way you have extra clearance. The length of the coil and former won't change, you just change where the cone is glued to the former.
Ok i see now. Ive never built my own woofer yet so i didnt know you could do that. I assumed the former was flush with the lowest part of the cone not allowing you to move the cone any farther up without coming apart

 
Ok i see now. Ive never built my own woofer yet so i didnt know you could do that. I assumed the former was flush with the lowest part of the cone not allowing you to move the cone any farther up without coming apart
That's usually how most woofers are assembled, but in some cases (like DD's composite cones) you can glue the cone higher up on the former as long as it's a strong bond.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

mendon mafia

10+ year member
`94 caprice, 15" Fi BTL
Thread starter
mendon mafia
Joined
Location
Cocoa Beach, FL
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
28
Views
6,296
Last reply date
Last reply from
SPLaudio
IMG_5911.jpg

NorthFramingham

    Jun 30, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
2006.jpg

Popwarhomie

    Jun 29, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top