front comps and sub on mazda3 hatch - need some help w/ equipment

Smokin7

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Hey guys, I have an 07 mazda 3 hatch and am planning out the sound system. I'm keeping the stock head unit, adding a 10" sub and replacing the front components (stock). I've thought about aftermarket HU, but I'd rather keep the stock for a low key setup...years ago my stuff got stolen after someone saw my deck. I'm looking for a really clean sounding setup with tight, clean bass. I don't crank the stereo, so I'm sure everything will be loud enough. Since I'm a little tight on money, I'm going to have to drag out the spending over a couple months, so I was thinking of wiring up a sub first, then getting speakers and maybe a month down the road getting an amp for them. Here is what I have planned so far:

10" Kicker CVR (07CVR104) in a sealed box

Kicker 07CVR104 10" Subwoofers Car Subwoofers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

pushed by a Kicker zx400.1

Kicker 08ZX400.1 (08zx4001) Mono Subwoofer Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

or maybe an Alphine MRP-M500

Alpine MRP-M500 (mrpm500) Mono Subwoofer Amps Car Amplifiers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

For speakers I'm looking at either the Polk MM6501

Polk Audio MM6501 6-1/2" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

or the Focals 165VR

Focal 165 VR (165vr) 6-1/2" Component Systems Car Speakers Car Audio Car Audio, Video, & GPS Navigation - Sonic Electronix

with an Audison LRX 2.250

LRX 2.250 - Audison 2 Ch 420 Watt Amplifier

couple questions off the top of my head

-am I going to notice a difference between the Kicker and Alpine amp on that sub? I'm looking for tight, accurate bass as opposed to booming and rattling.

-will I damage the speakers if I run them from the stock HU?

-will they sound better then the stock ones running off the stock HU?

-is there a cheaper alternative to the Audison amp that will still make the speakers sound as good? Local audio shop suggested the Focal/Audison pair, so I don't know if another amp will work.

-is a 4 gauge wiring kit sufficient to run power to these 2 amps?

What are some cheaper alternative speakers and amp that will keep me in the $400 range for both? I don't think I can afford Focals + Audison.

Also, I'm going with this LOC

PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Mazda Add an Amplifier Adapter

PAC AOEM-MAZ2 Add an Amplifier Adapter, Car Stereo Kits, Audio Wiring Harnesses, Installation Equipment, Electronics, Accessories & Adapters

but a local audio shop guy suggested I get a LC6i which is twice as expensive. Is the LC6i worth it? Do I need it? Will it make a difference? On mazda forums I'm hearing that the stock HU signal is pretty flat and someone people say it's not needed while others suggest using it...

 
you will NOT be disappointed with that audison amp
I'm sure that amp is really good, hence the big $$ for it. Am I going to be taking a big step down if I do something like MB QUART DSC4125 that misfit suggested? Looking at the MB Quart, I can bridge 2 channels to run a sub and then run the speakers from the other 2....so that $130 amp would replace my two amps, and save me about $400 meaning I can buy a better sub. Will I be taking a big hit in the sound quality by going this route?

I guess for 2 comps, sub and amp/amps to run them I'd be willing to spend $600-700. What would you guys do with this budget?

 
I'm sure that amp is really good, hence the big $$ for it. Am I going to be taking a big step down if I do something like MB QUART DSC4125 that misfit suggested? Looking at the MB Quart, I can bridge 2 channels to run a sub and then run the speakers from the other 2....so that $130 amp would replace my two amps, and save me about $400 meaning I can buy a better sub. Will I be taking a big hit in the sound quality by going this route? I guess for 2 comps, sub and amp/amps to run them I'd be willing to spend $600-700. What would you guys do with this budget?
You should buy the sub and components that I linked too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 
i guess my post contained some bias. I have never directly compared the audison and the Quart misfit suggested. Either way, if you were to ever change your mind, I don't think you would have a problem selling either of 'em

 
You should buy the sub and components that I linked too. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
I just might do that...your setup brings me to about $530...which gives me another $70-$170 head room. Would I get much of an improvement over what you suggested with this money?

Also, what's your take on the PAC vs. LC6i...will the 6i make an audible difference in sound quality?

 
I just might do that...your setup brings me to about $530...which gives me another $70-$170 head room. Would I get much of an improvement over what you suggested with this money?
Also, what's your take on the PAC vs. LC6i...will the 6i make an audible difference in sound quality?
You'll be hard pressed to find better equipment than the ID stuff I linked for less money. If you install that stuff properly, it should sound fantastic.

I'm not really the guy to ask about PAC unit. I never leave a factory head unit in any of my projects...

 
I'd choose the DSC4125 over the Kenwood in a heartbeat. The Kenwood's power rating is weak sauce when compared to the DSC4125's 125 x2 + 500 x1 @ 4 ohms. Add the significant difference in price and the fact that the Kenwood won't sufficiently power the ID comps & sub and this is a no brainer decision...

 
Misfit, what do you think of this idea. Using the Kenwood to power only the fronts in an active setup and maybe a DSC2150 for the sub. I could do something like MLI-65 mids and some silk or textile tweeters.

MLI-65 [MLI-65] - $27.00 : Mach 5 Audio

or maybe one of these sweet looking things...Exodus Anarchy

http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538&Cid=2ec14a403ae881645b62614ba6479c5b

Or do you think the passive ID setup you described is still better?

Granted I don't know anything about cross overs, but I'll read up and learn.

 
BTW....unless you are trying to go really big with your system (which it does not look like you are), no need for the LCI vs. the PAC. Of course, just my $0.02.

 
BTW....unless you are trying to go really big with your system (which it does not look like you are), no need for the LCI vs. the PAC. Of course, just my $0.02.
Thanks Bubble. I was leaning towards the PAC.

Misfit, I'm still considering the setup you suggested above and am torn between that and an active setup. Your setup is about $580, and an active will run me about $750, which is close enough to my budget that I'm willing to spend the extra 50. Here is what I'm thinking for an active:

Kenwood x4R which will drive the front speakers and provide the eq and xover functionality

class D sub amp like the Alpine M500 or Kicker 400.1 for the sub or maybe a MB Quart DSC2150

either the IDQ10v3 or a shallow 12" IS BM for the sub...depending on how I plan the box

a mid like the MLI-65 and textile/silk tweeters.

what do you guys think? Is this setup worth the extra $200 in terms of an improved sound quality? Or should I just stick with a passive setup like misfit laid out?

 
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