found a sub, need help selecting amp

Zach85
10+ year member

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Although not new to car audio installation, I'm still new to sub and amp installation. The extent of what I've done the last few years is just head unit, equalizer (in front) and speakers installations. I want to up it a notch.

I found a sub I want. an Infinity 1252w. It's DVC, 50-300 rms, 1200 peak. I need help selecting an amp.

Now, I don't know much when it comes to selecting an amp, except to try and match the rms wattage as close as possible. After just looking, I found this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_098CO602V2/Orion-Cobalt-CO6002.html?tp=115

which is 300 @ 4ohm bridged. Would this work better? Or should I get something that is 300 @ 2ohm and wire up my one sub parallel with the DVC ability? Any help is much appreciated, so thanks in advance!

 
These are the specs:

# 12" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils

# polypropylene woofer cone with large-roll rubber surround

# innovative basket design minimizes depth

# progressive spider design for excellent cone control

# power range: 60-300 watts RMS (150 watts per voice coil)

# peak power handling: 1,200 watts

# frequency response: 23-400 Hz

# sensitivity: 93 dB

# top-mount depth: 5-1/16"

# sealed box volume: 1.25 cu. ft.

# ported box volume: 2.00 cu. ft.

 
find your self a mono amp that puts out 300 RMS at 2 ohm. wire like this , only 1 sub right?

1_4ohmDVC_2ohm.gif


 
That's what I was thinking, parallel wiring and go 300rms @ 2ohm. I recognize that diagram, I was trying to do some research and came across, just wanted to check with this forum as it has always been helpful in the past.

So, and amp like this would work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/MTX-Thunder-TC3001-Car-Mono-Subwoofer-Amplifier_W0QQitemZ120475893490QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item1c0cec3ef2

If something is only just rated by saying 300x1 RMS, but doesn't list an ohm rating, is it safe to say it is most likely 4ohm?

Now, on amps, is there a switch to switch between 2 or 4 ohm, or is that automatic based on the wiring (i.e. if i wired as the diagram shows, the amp will automatically "know" to go 2ohm)? Thanks for your help!

 
well one thing ive learned over alot of years in car audio is its better to have more than not enough. getting an amp like the one you linked might work... but you might end up being unsatisfied w/ the performance it puts out. Its better to have one w/ more than recommended rms because: 1. You can turn the amp down or up depending on your taste. 2. running an amp w/ more than NEEDED will allow you to run the amp under full blast which will help from pushing the amp/sub into distortion at all (in most cases). Your sub(whichever you go with) can usually take more solid power than they recommend for rms. Also, some subs are more efficient than others, using less power for more output. So anyways back to the main point... id go with sumn that does a lil more rms like 400-500 watts. if your looking for a cheap solution id recommend the TMA 500.1. Jl audios sister company, its got a ton of power(you can keep it down if you like) but is VERY well priced. i got one runnin 2 12" Jl audio w1v2s and the things like half way up and slams em(those are rated like 300rms/piece). so if you go w/ a different sub or wanted to add a second one later then your in good hands. good luck with your searching

 
I ran my 1250's off of more power than rated, but my boxes were only 65% of recommended volume, if that matters.

I'd feed it more than just 300 watts. That way you can make it reach it's potential without overloading the amp.

 
Now, on amps, is there a switch to switch between 2 or 4 ohm, or is that automatic based on the wiring (i.e. if i wired as the diagram shows, the amp will automatically "know" to go 2ohm)? Thanks for your help!
The speakers themselves have resistance; depending on how they are wired will set the resistance on the amplifier.

 
wow, that's a lot of response in just the last few minutes. Thanks for all of the suggestions...

I'm now looking at the TMA 500.1 as suggested, it's still a little pricey right for me (out of a job and just doing some small odd jobs that pays decent and pays the bills). I'll look for something a little cheaper that does 500 x 1 @ 2ohm... but if it's mono, doesn't that mean it can only take one connection (i.e. one sub)?

 
wow, that's a lot of response in just the last few minutes. Thanks for all of the suggestions...
I'm now looking at the TMA 500.1 as suggested, it's still a little pricey right for me (out of a job and just doing some small odd jobs that pays decent and pays the bills). I'll look for something a little cheaper that does 500 x 1 @ 2ohm... but if it's mono, doesn't that mean it can only take one connection (i.e. one sub)?
If it comes down to having a system or paying the bills, pay the bills; if you're that tight on cash.

 
right now I'm planning for a purchase in the next month or so. I will be getting a settlement check soon for something, so my apology, I wasn't thinking correctly. I'm only tight on cash now, but hopefully soon I will get a job and the settlement check will come in handy. Thanks for the suggestion.

I'm looking around for other amps right now, and I'm gonna go to the audio shop in the next town over, or at a walmart for something simple. I don't need to spend a lot of money since I'm not looking for the biggest boom in the city. I just want something that will create some sort of boom that people will hear.

 
Ok, just came up with another question... Wiring...

I don't understand any of the guages and stuff. Should I get wiring to compensate for RMS wattage, or peak wattage? And, as for connecting amp to sub, I notice on a picture of an amp that it's just the raw end of the cable that goes into it. Do they make cables that have RCA ends on one end and raw on the other, or would I have to buy RCA cables and just cut the ends off on one end of the cable? Thanks

 
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Zach85

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