first box gaps in panels. sealing advice, 2 sa 12's top mount

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devin171moto

CarAudio.com Regular
hey guys been a while. heres the update for the sa build in the gmc envoy.
ive attached photos
my port entry width ended up being about 3/16 of an inch short on the left side. (its perfect on the right) hopefully that's not too bad?
i was having trouble finding places to clamp and it shifted overnight and locked there. :(

anyway. when i go to put the mounting baffle on, i noticed that basically the entire port assembly doesn't contact the top mount piece. theres a gap id say about an 1/8 of an inch or under. ive tried sanding the edges of the box evenly so it will sit lower (outer perimeter of box is in full contact with top piece) to get it to come down onto the port wall to no avail.

my question is. should i just keep sanding until all vertical surfaces are touching the mounting baffle?
should i just clamp it on with titebond and put something heavy over the port assembally and then just caulk it after it dries on the inside?
or should i use something like liquid nails to secure the top and then that will act as a bond and a better seal at the same time? then i can also caulk the inside to be safe.


im really hoping that port width issue isnt a project deal-breaker.
 

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I'd predrill the baffle only then pull it down with #6 1 5/8" coarse drywall screws along the portwalls then do the box walls.
Maybe add a small bead of caulk next to the woodglue before setting the baffle on.
1/8 gap is workable imo. 3/4" Mdf should bend a little bit. I'd just pull it tight and seal with caulk from the inside when done.
Dont overthink the port issue... It looks pretty good in the pics and should be ok I think.
I still want to hear how it turns out.
 
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Predrilling/countersinking the holes helps when assembling if clamping is not easy in my exp.

This was my father/son project this last weekend.

Once cut & predrilled it flew together fast.

20927
 
appreciate the reply man.

yeah ill do that. ive been having horrible splitting issues but i used #8 wood screws and a #8 tapered countersink. ill try the dry wall screws. if not ill use the #8s and just pull it down. then check if the glue squirts out the side. then caulk it.

and yes i did lol. i figured it all affected airspace. and i was glad to not have to make a window brace. im excited too. just gotta run my big 3 and put the north-star in while this all drys tomorrow, then and run my 0 gauge and get the volt meter hooked up
 
Predrilling/countersinking the holes helps when assembling if clamping is not easy in my exp.

This was my father/son project this last weekend.

Once cut & predrilled it flew together fast.

View attachment 20927
yeah should have pre drilled before I set glue. i was doing it after lol. just using a circular was hard to get exact cuts so I had multiple issues lmao. never worked with wood in my life before this.
 
appreciate the reply man.

yeah ill do that. ive been having horrible splitting issues but i used #8 wood screws and a #8 tapered countersink. ill try the dry wall screws. if not ill use the #8s and just pull it down. then check if the glue squirts out the side. then caulk it.

and yes i did lol. i figured it all affected airspace. and i was glad to not have to make a window brace. im excited too. just gotta run my big 3 and put the north-star in while this all drys tomorrow, then and run my 0 gauge and get the volt meter hooked up
Use #6 coarse thread drywall screws over woodscrews, they will grab better. Also a #6 countersink bit for them.
I'm up the road not too far away from Gilbert, I'd like to hear it eventually.
 
just using a circular was hard to get exact cuts so I had multiple issues lmao. never worked with wood in my life before this.
Imagine doing something more involved, I think the thing will do fine once finished.
Sure your not ready for something like this?

20928

Jk... I think you did fine 1st time building.
 
appreciate the reply man.

yeah ill do that. ive been having horrible splitting issues but i used #8 wood screws and a #8 tapered countersink. ill try the dry wall screws. if not ill use the #8s and just pull it down. then check if the glue squirts out the side. then caulk it.

and yes i did lol. i figured it all affected airspace. and i was glad to not have to make a window brace. im excited too. just gotta run my big 3 and put the north-star in while this all drys tomorrow, then and run my 0 gauge and get the volt meter hooked up

I ran a bead of glue on the inside of the box and let it . Then, I used this stuff over the glue. Flexible and waterproof sealant. Not that water will ever get in, but I liked the flexible part. It was my first box build as well.
20200321_221930.jpg
 
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devin171moto

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