Finally going big! Ready to start rebuilding again.

Gotta hate the bass bug right? Lol! I haven't even had the Hannibal hooked up a week and I'm ready for more bass. Got a design in the works for a C pillar wall in the Jeep for 6 DC level 3 12s or possibly 4 15s but I'm leaning to the 6 12s. On a taramps 8k. Thing is I need the wall to he non permanent and not ruin the car :/
I have done one in the exact same Jeep,

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/606610-c-pilllar-wall-jeep.html

I was really happy about the overall sound/response of the box, had back seats when needed, and it came out without leaving a mess.

First thing you should know is it'll be really arse heavy Batteries and amps right at the back bumper and subs and baffle right at the rear axle. Next it'll be more expensive to do it not permanent. I used a LOT of spray foam to fill in the large space around the box and pipe insulation up top in the tight gaps. Spray foam was squirted into trash bags so it would expand to fill up the space yet would not stick to the sides of the vehicle.

Plan on 600-800$ worth of materials to build a wall. Wood, screws, glue, fiberglass, paint/carpet, other stuff you didn't think of but will need to order or run out to the hardware store to buy. You really don't want to half arse things and you definitely don't want to run out of money halfway through the build.

If you can live without back seats you can very probably get louder with a large no-wall setup kept below the window line, if you want loud daily and back seats you won't regret going c-pillar. You'll max out at about 8 cube net box in that cargo area if you want to have enough space for amp(s), batteries, and a port that functions properly.

Oh, and after you get loud, things are going to start breaking and rattling. The console up on the roof where the dome light is and that whole headliner will flap noisily. You'll break body panels in the rear, and you may have trouble with the liftgate latch and lock. Get louder still and the door latches are very weak and may tear and the gasket around your windshield will start popping out. Rear view mirror probably won't last beyond 149-151dB (possibly lower depending on tuning).

Lastly, when all is said and done, you won't get much more than 12-13 cube net and keep functionality of your back seats. My 15s worked well for music in mine, but my definition of music contains no material

PM me if you have any questions on that Jeep, I'm on my second one that body style and have done a lot of testing. I can't tell you what optimum is (still searching for that) but I can certainly tell you what doesn't work and save you some time effort and money making mistakes that I've made for you.

 
If you could help me find a better woofer with a 1.5 or below cube box requirement I'd gladly buy it. No sarcasm at all. I could use the help if there's something I'm not thinking of.
Im not the guy to ask. Just mentioning that a LOT of people on here, relatively speaking, have made the same comment about that sub.

BTW, are you going off manufacturers recommendations?

Seems they all give below optimum box volumes to increase sales. Something to think about...

 
I have done one in the exact same Jeep,
http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/606610-c-pilllar-wall-jeep.html

I was really happy about the overall sound/response of the box, had back seats when needed, and it came out without leaving a mess.

First thing you should know is it'll be really arse heavy Batteries and amps right at the back bumper and subs and baffle right at the rear axle. Next it'll be more expensive to do it not permanent. I used a LOT of spray foam to fill in the large space around the box and pipe insulation up top in the tight gaps. Spray foam was squirted into trash bags so it would expand to fill up the space yet would not stick to the sides of the vehicle.

Plan on 600-800$ worth of materials to build a wall. Wood, screws, glue, fiberglass, paint/carpet, other stuff you didn't think of but will need to order or run out to the hardware store to buy. You really don't want to half arse things and you definitely don't want to run out of money halfway through the build.

If you can live without back seats you can very probably get louder with a large no-wall setup kept below the window line, if you want loud daily and back seats you won't regret going c-pillar. You'll max out at about 8 cube net box in that cargo area if you want to have enough space for amp(s), batteries, and a port that functions properly.

Oh, and after you get loud, things are going to start breaking and rattling. The console up on the roof where the dome light is and that whole headliner will flap noisily. You'll break body panels in the rear, and you may have trouble with the liftgate latch and lock. Get louder still and the door latches are very weak and may tear and the gasket around your windshield will start popping out. Rear view mirror probably won't last beyond 149-151dB (possibly lower depending on tuning).

Lastly, when all is said and done, you won't get much more than 12-13 cube net and keep functionality of your back seats. My 15s worked well for music in mine, but my definition of music contains no material

PM me if you have any questions on that Jeep, I'm on my second one that body style and have done a lot of testing. I can't tell you what optimum is (still searching for that) but I can certainly tell you what doesn't work and save you some time effort and money making mistakes that I've made for you.
Thank you for this super informative post!!! Pm sent.

 
6 btl 15s in a b pillar?
Well that escalated quickly.

4 is the correct number for your Jeep. If you're good with woodworking you might be able to get more than 24 cube in the enclosure but you won't have room for that much cone area and a port.

6 12's may work even better for power handling and be about the same cone area.

 
Well that escalated quickly.
4 is the correct number for your Jeep. If you're good with woodworking you might be able to get more than 24 cube in the enclosure but you won't have room for that much cone area and a port.

6 12's may work even better for power handling and be about the same cone area.
So would 6 12s be better than four 15s because of the motor Force versus cone area?

 
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