Finalizing My Upgrade List

So I'm looking to finalize my upgrade list and need some advice.

I'm ordering my 275A Singer Alt in a couple weeks.

I have decided on getting the CDT MX-262 speakers. I am struggling trying to make up my mind on an amp for these. I am trying to get a 4 channel so I can eventually upgrade my rear speakers on the same amp, but if a 2 channel is more suitable that is fine. I'm liking the SoundQubed simply because of the price, but I can bump it up depending on how my funds are looking. Here is a list of the ones I've looked at...

1. American Bass VFL350.4 ($450) -- I am worried this will end up pushing too much power.

2. American Bass SQ1200 (Price?)

3. Ampere Audio 125.4 ($380) -- AA is a good company correct? Board looks nice.

4. Crescendo Symphony 800.4 ($300)

5. SoundQubed Q4-120.4 ($250)

6. Sundown SAX125.4 ($470)

I want advice and Pros/Cons to these choices.

Next will be what brand of deadner to go with. I've seen so many great brands, I just don't know which one to go with. I don't want one that'll break the bank, but I want a pretty good quality one.

My front stage amp should be ran with 4 gauge wire as well correct? (Making sure so I know want to get when I order the amp).

What are some good battery terminals? I was looking at Sky High's. I don't want a super expensive one, but obviously one that is going to do well.

I was considering getting a volt meter to help monitor voltages. I was eyeballing the SMD one, but are there others that are cheaper that will perform equally?

And what are some quality distro block? I was going to replace my 4 gauge with 0 gauge and run to a distro block to run the 4 gauge to my sub and front stage amps.

Also, I know this has been debated forever now, but am I going to see a real world difference between Kinetik and XS Power batteries?

 
holy hell dub post
Welcome to my world haha.

But as for the price, I want to get a high quality and proven amp. The location of the amp won't get a lot of airflow and my truck sits in the sun all day, 7 days a week. Unless you can prove to me that PPI is of the same quality as the others. If I were on a tight budget I wouldn't hesitate to get on in a heartbeat.

 
Welcome to my world haha.

But as for the price, I want to get a high quality and proven amp. The location of the amp won't get a lot of airflow and my truck sits in the sun all day, 7 days a week. Unless you can prove to me that PPI is of the same quality as the others. If I were on a tight budget I wouldn't hesitate to get on in a heartbeat.
Just go look up the amp on DIYMA lmao

These amps have been highly praised for their high efficiency, and how hard they have been ran with little to no airflow around them, and they're just cool to the touch

I mean you can pay those prices for those amps if you want to. It's your money. You wont be disappointed in the PPI's, that's a fact

 
But as for the price, I want to get a high quality and proven amp. The location of the amp won't get a lot of airflow and my truck sits in the sun all day, 7 days a week. Unless you can prove to me that PPI is of the same quality as the others. If I were on a tight budget I wouldn't hesitate to get on in a heartbeat.
The build quality is not what you would get if you spent twice the money, but the sound quality is very likely the same. I can't say I've never had a customer receive a DOA Phantom amplifier, but the failure rate is extremely low. I recommend P900.4 quite a lot.

If you're more comfortable with something that looks and feels nicer I have other options. For the power distribution my best recommendation is T-Spec V-10 or V-12 products. I can get you Shuriken batteries. The Shurikens are good and I would order that directly from Metra to get you a fresh one.

 
Thanks for the help guys! I'll take all the advice and consider my options over the next month. Working Toyota's shutdown week (July 14-18) so I should double my normal paycheck and get enough for the front stage!

 
I have decided on getting the CDT MX-262 speakers... Here is a list of the ones I've looked at...
1. American Bass VFL350.4 ($450) -- I am worried this will end up pushing too much power.

2. American Bass SQ1200 (Price?)

3. Ampere Audio 125.4 ($380) -- AA is a good company correct? Board looks nice.

4. Crescendo Symphony 800.4 ($300)

5. SoundQubed Q4-120.4 ($250)

6. Sundown SAX125.4 ($470)
Class A/B amplifier will be your best choice for the CDT's, leave Class D amplifiers for what they're good at, running subwoofers..

 
Class A/B amplifier will be your best choice for the CDT's, leave Class D amplifiers for what they're good at, running subwoofers..
You really have no idea. I use all Class D amplification in my car, Mark Eldridge uses all Class D in a multiple world champion winning car, Scott Buwalda has been highly successful as well with full range Class D amplifiers(highest points total in IASCA, easy to find with a web search), and the list could go on.

Full range Class D is more efficient, which means chassis sizes are smaller while often making more power than Class AB. The sonic qualities have been proven over and over to be a moot point with a well made Class D amplifier. If the choice was between possibly a warmer, slightly colored sound and less power over neutral sound and more power, I will take more power every time. I've had this discussion with customers countless times. I don't expect to convince everyone, as we as humans place a lot of faith in what is familiar and comfortable. DSP and full range Class D are our techno allies, not oddities to be shunned. I brought up DSP because that's similarly derided as having no place in a "proper" car audio system, depending on who you ask.

 
This is just my opinion Barry, i would not choose class d for my cdt's, to each his own.. this is a forum, we are not going to agree on every single thing..

i haven't used class d so i'm not comfortable with it, but i am glad there are others that have so they can offer their feedback..

 
You really have no idea. I use all Class D amplification in my car, Mark Eldridge uses all Class D in a multiple world champion winning car, Scott Buwalda has been highly successful as well with full range Class D amplifiers(highest points total in IASCA, easy to find with a web search), and the list could go on.
Full range Class D is more efficient, which means chassis sizes are smaller while often making more power than Class AB. The sonic qualities have been proven over and over to be a moot point with a well made Class D amplifier. If the choice was between possibly a warmer, slightly colored sound and less power over neutral sound and more power, I will take more power every time. I've had this discussion with customers countless times. I don't expect to convince everyone, as we as humans place a lot of faith in what is familiar and comfortable. DSP and full range Class D are our techno allies, not oddities to be shunned. I brought up DSP because that's similarly derided as having no place in a "proper" car audio system, depending on who you ask.
A JL HD is not a PPI. And look how much headroom those two have, those 750 watt on each speaker amps are barely doing anything.

 
A JL HD is not a PPI. And look how much headroom those two have, those 750 watt on each speaker amps are barely doing anything.
Scott has said himself he used the JL HD amplifiers to make a point about full range Class D. That was why I dropped his and Eldridge's names. Nowhere did I state JL HD and PPI Phantom are on par with each other.

 
Scott has said himself he used the JL HD amplifiers to make a point about full range Class D. That was why I dropped his and Eldridge's names. Nowhere did I state JL HD and PPI Phantom are on par with each other.
He has said that but what kind of point did he really make. He ran 750 watt full range amps on a modded bit 1 on 8 100 watt speakers.

 
He has said that but what kind of point did he really make. He ran 750 watt full range amps on a modded bit 1 on 8 100 watt speakers.
Wouldn't you do everything you could possibly do to get better sound if you were going for World Champion in your class? I mentioned headroom earlier as a priority over the amplifier's toplogy. If he wanted a similar amount of power on Class AB it would have taken significantly more space as well as drawn more current. The power handling of the speakers is irrelevant. Modded Bit One, that goes back to doing everything he felt necessary to get a better score. Is this personal against Scott or do you just not like that I'm promoting budget friendly proven over and over ampliifers in the same context as more expensive amplifiers with better build quality?

 
Wouldn't you do everything you could possibly do to get better sound if you were going for World Champion in your class? I mentioned headroom earlier as a priority over the amplifier's toplogy. If he wanted a similar amount of power on Class AB it would have taken significantly more space as well as drawn more current. The power handling of the speakers is irrelevant. Modded Bit One, that goes back to doing everything he felt necessary to get a better score. Is this personal against Scott or do you just not like that I'm promoting budget friendly proven over and over ampliifers in the same context as more expensive amplifiers with better build quality?
I'm just making relevant conversation. He did it to show D will work but look what he did to make it work. He could have used 600/4s but he didn't. IMO all he proved was that's what it took to make D outperform A/B

 
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