Feedback Please! Set up for 2008 Accord Sedan

[TrillGates2k6]

You will no doubt have some dimming issues id look into a stronger battery aswell 

---------- Post added at 10:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 PM ----------

 

Degrees keep ya warm huh....

Not only do they keep me warm, they keep my bank account looking nice so I can spend money on car audio equipment for all 3 of my vehicles, yea boy

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

Not only do they keep me warm, they keep my bank account looking nice so I can spend money on car audio equipment for all 3 of my vehicles, yea boy

And with that statement it is proven you have a small penis

 

[TrillGates2k6]

And with that statement it is proven you have a small penis

my girl likes it; that's pretty much all that matters

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

my girl likes it; that's pretty much all that matters

Its not the only one she likes

 

[UGHH]

You shouldn't need a HO alt. just big 3 and AGM battery. I'm running 1200 watts in a 99 Plymouth breeze with stock electrical, no dimming at all. Only time my voltage drops to low 13 or high 12s is at night when I have the headlights on. But during the day it stays at or above 13.5

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

SAZ-1500D V.3. Look here 1500 rms at 1 ohm 3000 rms strapped 2 amps at 2 ohms

 

[TrillGates2k6]

SAZ-1500D V.3. Look here 1500 rms at 1 ohm 3000 rms strapped 2 amps at 2 ohms

Not sure if you saw the earlier comments, but yeah we cleared that up; the page i was looking at had some pretty bad formatting on it so i overlooked it initially; but you're right, 1500 watts RMS; On another note, it's pretty stupid that they even decided to throw that spec in there. If one amp is 1500 watts rms, then like DUH, 2 of them would be 3000 watts rms; But yeah, thanks for clearing that up. An oversight on my part.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Not sure if you saw the earlier comments, but yeah we cleared that up; the page i was looking at had some pretty bad formatting on it so i overlooked it initially; but you're right, 1500 watts RMS; On another note, it's pretty stupid that they even decided to throw that spec in there. If one amp is 1500 watts rms, then like DUH, 2 of them would be 3000 watts rms; But yeah, thanks for clearing that up. An oversight on my part.

No prob

 

[TrillGates2k6]

You shouldn't need a HO alt. just big 3 and AGM battery. I'm running 1200 watts in a 99 Plymouth breeze with stock electrical, no dimming at all. Only time my voltage drops to low 13 or high 12s is at night when I have the headlights on. But during the day it stays at or above 13.5

Adding an H/O Alternator would be much simpler though. Not everyone wants to deal with having an extra battery in the trunk. but hey, that's his call; But it would likely work either way

 

[TrillGates2k6]

Your total worst case scenario is that you need to supply 1500 watts RMS + 360 watts RMS (for your smaller 4 channel amp) which is 1860 watts RMS; Worst case scenario is that your alternator floats around the 13volt mark. best case scenario is that it stays near 14.4volts; So for 13 Volts you'd need about 143 AMPS. And for best case scenario for 14.4 Volts you'd need about 129 AMPS. That's assuming that your AMPS are 100% efficient, which they are not. So for worst case scenario on the efficiency end of things, we'll consider 70% efficiency.

So now REALISTICALLY you would need about 184 AMPS at 14.4 Volts and you would need about 204 AMPS at 13 Volts; Those are the numbers. You can get extra batteries to compensate for the extra power you need, or you could just get 1 High Output Alternator and possibly eliminate the need for extra batteries completely, depending on how many AMPS the alternator is rated at.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Seriously you dont need the high output alt, as long as your not clipping anything or playing straight 50hz tones, you shouldnt be dropping below 13.5V with that total power draw. Its mainly because music is dynamic, your not drawing maximum amperage at all times. Big 3, agm under the hood and 0 gauge all around is enough for this system to float in the high 13s voltage. You probably aren't competing or anything so your not gonna need 14.4 volts. I'm guessing this is just a nice daily driver and voltage drops keeping above 13.5 is more then enough to keep you, your car and your equipment happy.

 

[TrillGates2k6]

Seriously you dont need the high output alt, as long as your not clipping anything or playing straight 50hz tones, you shouldnt be dropping below 13.5V with that total power draw. Its mainly because music is dynamic, your not drawing maximum amperage at all times. Big 3, agm under the hood and 0 gauge all around is enough for this system to float in the high 13s voltage. You probably aren't competing or anything so your not gonna need 14.4 volts. I'm guessing this is just a nice daily driver and voltage drops keeping above 13.5 is more then enough to keep you, your car and your equipment happy.

You're right man; I just like to supply people with best and worst case scenarios so they can make their own decisions.

 

[Side Show 10+ year member]

Don't run different size subs, spend the extra coin on a better set of from speakers

edit, read the rear speakers wrong

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

Don't run different size subs, spend the extra coin on a better set of from speakers

I agree with this but the op doesnt have 2 different sizes in the first post

 

[TrillGates2k6]

Don't run different size subs, spend the extra coin on a better set of from speakers

I was under the impression that he was running (2) 10" Subs. What do you mean different size subs?