fbi90909's TC LMS 5400 15 + Saz3000D rebuild + fiberglass

Civic's are infamous for their weak power window systems. When I was running 700 rms alone i had to replace the regulator because it was thrown out of balance and my window wouldnt roll completely up. A real PITA to replace that piece too. I believe I've had to go back in and tighten up the bolts 3 or 4 times just because of the bass rattling them loose. I eventually just ripped the system out and I'm debating on whether i want to get a new car before I put anything back in or not. This is with only 1 layer of Stinger overkill on the doors.
The install looks great so far though. G/l with the rest!
Ive had 2 civics, 2001 and 2005 (currently) both with 1500rms systems in them with only Deep cycle batt upgrade and never had a problem with my electrical. not even dimming.

my EX has a little more power than my LX did. certainly not a race car by any means but enough get up and go for what the car is. even with a system i get 35+mpg so im happy with it! haha

OP, why did you choose to run your ground outside the car and not somewhere inside? just curious.

 
Ive had 2 civics, 2001 and 2005 (currently) both with 1500rms systems in them with only Deep cycle batt upgrade and never had a problem with my electrical. not even dimming.
my EX has a little more power than my LX did. certainly not a race car by any means but enough get up and go for what the car is. even with a system i get 35+mpg so im happy with it! haha

OP, why did you choose to run your ground outside the car and not somewhere inside? just curious.
being that my rear battery needed a good ground with little resistance i ran it to the exterior of the car. plus, the area that it's grounded to is the most "frame like" area of the car even though the cars a uni-body. i just figured it'd be better than just grounding it to the trunk floor. ya know?

 
being that my rear battery needed a good ground with little resistance i ran it to the exterior of the car. plus, the area that it's grounded to is the most "frame like" area of the car even though the cars a uni-body. i just figured it'd be better than just grounding it to the trunk floor. ya know?
gotcha. yeah mine is grounded using one of the stinger grounding terminals attached to that small hump between the back seat and the trunk. seems to work pretty well.

only thing i can complain about is i wish the original owner (who had all the wire installed in the first place) didnt run the power wire outside the vehicle. its ran underneath the vehicle down the passenger side and then comes in the trunk. always makes me nervous.

 
wel i didn't update last night cause i was playing street fighter with a friend. then i watched starship troopers. love that movie.

well yesterday i ended up having to scrap the original amp beauty panel. i cut the center of the panel so i could re-attach the lifted area of the panel. but, that was a no good as lots of areas lifted. fucking hot glue.

so it was a set back and a complete waste of time but a learning lesson. i ended up creating a wooden frame of the amp and a 2-part epoxy gluing it to the amp rack. that way, i was **** sure that shit wasn't going to lift up again.

so most of my work ended up retracing my steps with the **** amp panel and getting the final layers done onto the rear dash panel. i had a friend helping me and i have to say. it was a load off my back. i got a lot of layers done in one day.

hell, we managed to get 3 layers alone onto the redone amp panel.

well, here's pics for yesterdays update.

cutting to access the center

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lifted corner

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lifted center

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fuck it..

start it all over. and much better

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**** now i gotta retype this shit!

browser crashed.

alright today i started out with laying more layers onto the rear amp panel.

no pics of that.

after that i set the car in the sun and started to remove all the excess fiberglass that was on the rear dash panel and remove the poirt flares, first port out

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working the second

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second out

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both cut out and sitting in place. all of the panel was sanded

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