so what do you recommend when tuning? Are you saying below 30 or above?Were you at Frost Off in 2012?
He's saying to tune below 30Hz so that group delay will stay below 10ms at frequencies above 30Hz.My question exactly
It's a system so it really depends on various things - vehicle transfer function, driver Q, driver Fs, power applied (may affect driver choice or enclosure volume), etc... This is why everything should be modeled, including the acoustic response of the vehicle interior. I will tune anywhere from 16 to 22hz if being completely musical is my goal, but I also use drivers that have very low Fs numbers. No unloading issues on the bottom end negates the need for any SSF, and I vary the enclosure volume to suit the driver Vas and the power applied to keep unloading above the tuning in check. The goal here is to have a maximally flat frequency and group delay response, while keeping excursion under control. This is what will truly allow you to play anything you want, including tones all day if you want to beat down the block. I listen to metal, classical, jazz, DJ Billy E, whatever. From the head unit, I simply change my high pass settings and EQ profiles to get the sound I want. Smooth, creamy, and extended, or lean, dry, and punchy... whatever I want.so what do you recommend when tuning? Are you saying below 30 or above?Were you at Frost Off in 2012?
Exactly, thank you.He's saying to tune below 30Hz so that group delay will stay below 10ms at frequencies above 30Hz.
I think you missed the point of everything that's been said.So low tuning will get me that awesome PUNCH! in my chest from the kick drums of rock songs? (given I have enough power).
Shoot. So what's the point? I thought it was said that tuning below 30hz is good for rock?I think you missed the point of everything that's been said.
He said tuning really low will keep the subwoofer from over extending which is why you have as subsonic filter on your amp. And tuning low will give you a flat response curve. Which means the bass will never peak at a frequency and get really loud..BUT will play all frequencies very well.So low tuning will get me that awesome PUNCH! in my chest from the kick drums of rock songs? (given I have enough power).
Right. It's also if the amp can handle the quickness and how it sounds in a specific car. Right?It's more than just the tuning, lol.
ahh, ok. So what is it exactly that gives the punch? I can feel it a little bit with what I have, but I've felt it more other places. Not sure what needs to be done to achieve it though.He said tuning really low will keep the subwoofer from over extending which is why you have as subsonic filter on your amp. And tuning low will give you a flat response curve. Which means the bass will never peak at a frequency and get really loud..BUT will play all frequencies very well.
This guy is catching on quickly.He said tuning really low will keep the subwoofer from over extending which is why you have as subsonic filter on your amp. And tuning low will give you a flat response curve. Which means the bass will never peak at a frequency and get really loud..BUT will play all frequencies very well.
Punch is usually associated with higher frequencies, and that's correct, but it's not limited to the high frequencies. It's more about the whole visceral presentation at all frequencies. Even in your front stage. Power and dynamics! Here, here!ahh, ok. So what is it exactly that gives the punch? I can feel it a little bit with what I have, but I've felt it more other places. Not sure what needs to be done to achieve it though.
Kinda. We are n00bs here. For me to understand the whole thing. I would first have to understand how to even A. Tune a ported enclosure. B. Understand frequency respone, peak outputs and all that. C. Just not be such a n00bThis guy is catching on quickly.
And think about it... think of what you could do on whim. If you're tuned at somewhere around 18-22hz, driver excursion is at it's lowest there, right? Which means, barring any tricky cancellation issues, the output will be potentially strongest in that region (depending on how things are set in your particular application). That means you could set your low pass to something like 30-45hz and just dump power into the driver until the thermal limits are being approached. You would be crushing the lows with absolute authority. If it's not punchy enough, simply raise the low pass frequency a bit until you get the desired effect.
You guys picking up what I'm laying down here?
So I'm planning on building a set up for my home stereo and I'm going to tune the box pretty low (around 20-23hz) and so are you saying I'll be able to play Bass I Love You and actually have it sound good?This guy is catching on quickly.
And think about it... think of what you could do on whim. If you're tuned at somewhere around 18-22hz, driver excursion is at it's lowest there, right? Which means, barring any tricky cancellation issues, the output will be potentially strongest in that region (depending on how things are set in your particular application). That means you could set your low pass to something like 30-45hz and just dump power into the driver until the thermal limits are being approached. You would be crushing the lows with absolute authority. If it's not punchy enough, simply raise the low pass frequency a bit until you get the desired effect.
You guys picking up what I'm laying down here?