Extra Battery or HO Alternator

[Humpty 10+ year member]

So I've been talking to tenney alternators.

They have a 320amp alt for $375 shipped, said it does 220a on idle.

Seems like a decent price, heard some good things about this company.

Wondering if anybody has any experience with tenney products?

 

[GCassman]

Out of curiosity, have you upgraded both the positive and ground sides of the battery and alternator with the 0 gauge? In order to minimize voltage dropping in your system, you need to have both sides of the circuit maximized. Voltage dropping is either caused by not enough current capacity from the alternator/battery or from too much resistance in your power system. The voltage will drop at the weakest link in the power system whether that is the cables, connections or power source.

I typically will run 0 gauge from the alternator positive to the battery positive, alternator case to the battery ground and then both alternator case and battery ground to the frame before upgrading the rest of the wiring. That way I ensure that I'm getting the maximum power from the car.

If the lights dim after that, then I know I need a bigger alternator. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[CRSO 10+ year member]

Tenney is good. I got a 270 from him

 

---------- Post added at 04:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:08 PM ----------

 

Out of curiosity, have you upgraded both the positive and ground sides of the battery and alternator with the 0 gauge? In order to minimize voltage dropping in your system, you need to have both sides of the circuit maximized. Voltage dropping is either caused by not enough current capacity from the alternator/battery or from too much resistance in your power system. The voltage will drop at the weakest link in the power system whether that is the cables, connections or power source.
I typically will run 0 gauge from the alternator positive to the battery positive, alternator case to the battery ground and then both alternator case and battery ground to the frame before upgrading the rest of the wiring. That way I ensure that I'm getting the maximum power from the car.

If the lights dim after that, then I know I need a bigger alternator. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I did exactly what you did... Yup

 

[Humpty 10+ year member]

battery + to alternator +, battery - to chassis, battery minus to alternator (engine blOck) ground, engine block ground to chassis

All with 0 gauge and soldered ring ends.

I have ordered a 320amp alternator from tenney alternators.

That should solve the problems