Ehhh... BIG THREE help please!

You don't need to ground the alt. Just 1)Alt Positive to battery positive 2)engine block to chassis and 3)Battery to chassis
Engine block to chassis (or a separate battery to block like I did on my truck to prevent the potential corrosion at the chassis connection point) IS "grounding the alternator." On many new cars, there is just not adequate room to get to, and replace, the stock engine block ground. I know for a fact that on my wife's Audi, I would not want to replace that wire until it was time for a timing belt change, as that job's step 1 is "remove front of car." So leaving the stock ground to the engine in place, and grounding to some place more convenient is often times, well, more convenient.

 
Engine block to chassis (or a separate battery to block like I did on my truck to prevent the potential corrosion at the chassis connection point) IS "grounding the alternator." On many new cars, there is just not adequate room to get to, and replace, the stock engine block ground. I know for a fact that on my wife's Audi, I would not want to replace that wire until it was time for a timing belt change, as that job's step 1 is "remove front of car." So leaving the stock ground to the engine in place, and grounding to some place more convenient is often times, well, more convenient.
No. You do not "replace" any wires. You add a new wire from the block to the chasis. Leave the original alone. Very easy on any car. Nothing could be simpler. Don't make it harder than it has to be.

No. Not block to battery either. Block to chassis, and battery negative to chassis.

You add 3 new wires. That's it.

 
alright. got the positive to alt figured out. got the negative on the battery to chassis handled, now for the last one Block to chassis? would i connect the end of the battery to chassis to the ground to chassis? to have the two wires have the same end point?

 
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