easiest way to seal off a trunk wall

if you want to use foam...just lay down a lot of masking tape, or you can tape down some plastic over the carpet. Then spray the foam over that so it doesn't stick to the carpet and ruin it

 
I normally use wooden panels to flush everything out the best I can and then maybe use bondo to get what ever contour I could not when I made the panel. I very rearly ever use that foam crap.

 
I normally use wooden panels to flush everything out the best I can and then maybe use bondo to get what ever contour I could not when I made the panel. I very rearly ever use that foam crap.
easiest....lol

 
It's essentially a what Jason calls a "bass reflex" box kind of like a 4th order from the trunk I fail at explaining it like he does, hopefully he chimes in soon.
I'm sure it works "ok" at best, but in the end you would do much better with a different type of setup all together. I seen your build and what everyone has said. I stand by, a different setup would do 10+db and sound better then your current setup.

 
I'm sure it works "ok" at best, but in the end you would do much better with a different type of setup all together. I seen your build and what everyone has said. I stand by, a different setup would do 10+db and sound better then your current setup.
different hell just a new box. M:E does great but i think he didnt do as well on ths one. just my .2

 
Yea, this one was not meant to actually pull of dBs from focus. The idea was an SQL design in the beginning. The request was quoted as this: "As many that would make a 27-30hz tune(aero) "I'd like 1 or 2 aero's depending what fulfills the concept" "1. and I want it to fire into the cabin but not 100% sealed".

This was fulfilled based on the request. Recommendations were made on this manner and the conclusion was to have the ports fire into the cabin. The sub in the trunk was to add to output from the beginning, THEN the design was sealed off and I recalculated it to work still with the sub sealed into the trunk as a 6th order through the rear deck may give it an out of phase band greater than +/-90 degrees off axis. Then there was the power concern where I was even surprised of how much power was planning to go to the design, where I had allocated 600 watts based on efficiency of the compression chamber ALONG WITH more importantly the RMS limitations of the driver, and it was also mentioned this for the design goal "SQLwithslight SPL for flex(not burps" as a request.

So, no the design was done correctly. Things changed thereafter and I was by him every step of the way to ensure it was not a total loss from the changes that were made. The final idea was to have it react like a 4th order in the end to maintain output authority in the low low end and not be out of phase. I assure you it was not a mistake on the design part. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif I hope that is finally cleared up y everyone who does not know the truth of this design that was questioned time after time, and then proven to work well after the modifications thereafter. No mistake, I assure you, was made on my part of this process.

Now regarding the OPs question, as much wood as possible to conform to the area that needs to be sealed off is the best way to keep cancellation from occurring. Then any material used to seal it from there should be used minority in respect to the area that is of concern. This will give the best rigid structure to any wall.

 
Do you have to run sealed? You don't need to seal it off if you can run with your trunnk open.
^^^^this

i had a 99 galant(avatar pic), 2 15s with aeros firing into cab with out trunk sealed off. the car was funny. i could gain 2 dbs just by opening my trunk, and would gain another 1.6 by opening all doors....? i know to me it seemed wrong but it worked. it worked some how as a vacum, if you stood in the door way you could feel air being pull from out side....

 
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