dual amp issues

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

Listen man 475 rwhp is a lot of power, id suspect with some more experience he can easily get into the mid 11's but if he has all kinds of heavy things in his car i can understand that. I have a lightened fox body. The car weighs les then 3 grand with me in it. Thats with my subs and all. I also have a twin turbo, which helps me off the line not spin so much as a (roots or twin screw blow i.e Kenne belle, vortech. etc) I also know how to drive, and have 325 MT Drags as rubbers. I also have ful lakewood suspension and aluminum driveshaft, 9 inch MOSER rear, Im running 3.73's as well, My 4.10's felt faster but whne i switched to the 3 73's i got .3 faster it was sick. Tell your cobra friend to get some tires on that ***** and keep practicing 11's are in his near future, also reccomend him a 500-600 dollar ALUMINUM driveshaft. not carbon fiber i have my reasons.

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

Betrayer for rwhp is low you should probobly check to see if anything is restricting your flow (cats clogged intake clogged with crap) open that thing up get a cai and if not long tubes an o/r x and flows and a good dyno tune that should get you to a healthy 20 wrhp increase.. Maybe even more if you are in fact being restricted.

 

[DBDRAGGUY 10+ year member]

Sounds like your problem is most likely your remote turn on power supply, could possibly be your ground as well. Check your remote voltage on the leads to the amp. And make sure you have a good ground, your amp will try to pull ground from other sources such rca's.

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

what a hot minute. Can you split the rem? thats what i did, or do you put the rem into the one amp and then out that into another? right now i have it spliced and split into two

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

I have also ordered the 0/1 gauge kicker wiring kit with all that i need. I am doing the big three tonight, well actually im doing like a Big six because i can think of 3 other things that will add to that. Ill take some pictures if i can think of Good ideas. Im thinking 4 gauge from the battery to chassis and then to the alternator which in most cases is grounded to the body. I Then am going to use thicker ground wires everywhere i can find for electrical components. I also ordered a 150 amp alternator, im trying to find stock pulleys for my car, and my battery is already an optima red top so no goin much higher than that, Whats everyones deal saying capacitors are a waste? are they really a waste for my situation?

 

[J31Rob 5,000+ posts]

Single 1/0 run back, distro into two 4ga., 4ga. into each amp.

Run ground back up to the battery/rear battery/chassis.

Problem should be fixed.

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Caps are a waste for pretty much every situation.

The remote on is going to be the problem. Your deck can't keep the voltage up with the current draw of both components. Run a relay for the remotes and you should be good to go.

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

Where can i find a relay for that? I have good grounds in the back dont worry. Where can i get that relay for the deck?

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

Any auto parts store or Radio shack will have them. It's just a basic automotive relay. Uses the remote off the deck to switch a constant 12V that you can pull off the amp power input. All but eliminates any strain on the remote switching circuit of the deck and gives a nice solid "on" signl to the amps (as many of them as you need).

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

icalled a place and the guy said its not the rem, its the 4 gauge split to the 8 gauge.. Oh and its 3 connected 4 gauge wires because i couldn't find anything long enough at the time..

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

icalled a place and the guy said its not the rem, its the 4 gauge split to the 8 gauge.. Oh and its 3 connected 4 gauge wires because i couldn't find anything long enough at the time..

If this was really the problem, neither amp would work ever. Measure the voltage on the remote lead with both amps hooked up.

 

[Betrayer00GT 10+ year member]

Caps are a waste for pretty much every situation.
The remote on is going to be the problem. Your deck can't keep the voltage up with the current draw of both components. Run a relay for the remotes and you should be good to go.

Crap...

I bet I was about to run into this very issue, then. I plan to run turn on leads to a pair of stereo amps plus an electronic x-over, all spliced off my head unit's remote output. I think a nice, preventative 12v relay action is called for. Sweet - Rat Shack, here I come.

kingkong101, did this help your issue at all?

Betrayer for rwhp is low you should probobly check to see if anything is restricting your flow (cats clogged intake clogged with crap) open that thing up get a cai and if not long tubes an o/r x and flows and a good dyno tune that should get you to a healthy 20 wrhp increase.. Maybe even more if you are in fact being restricted.

Actually, on the stock dyno that was in my sig, if you do the math with a 15% drive line loss (typical for my 5-speed) you get HP at the crank of 266. The rating by Ford for my generation is 260. That is either an extra efficient *****, or a slight bit of factory-freakism. That is because the dyno-run was made just after I got my car, and it still had the stock paper air-filter on it even. I mean I hadn't done jack, yet.

Now, I have a K&N CAI (which came w/ a 9" diameter K&N filter element //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif ) and I have a MAC off-road H-pipe for power mods. I do not the H-pipe in ATM, as I found out CA has a $5K fine per modified stock catalytic converter, and my car came with 4 of them. I will use the off-road H, but only if I have a spare $20K around to pay the fine if I get caught. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif ...and the modulars can pass the sniffer part w/o cats, fyi.

I am not messing with any more power mods 'till the KB blower. I don't see the point. Just saving my pennies and biding my time...

...sure do look forward to it, though.

The Cobra guy has, pretty much, a pure driving issue. He is on 17" ~15-18psi 275 Nitto DRs. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

Everyone tells him he has an 11-second car with a 12-second driver... he's used to it by now. I am sure he will pick it up. It is just sad that mine does 13-second runs and his are only in the 12s. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

oooo wait i thought those were with his mods i skimmed past bone stock.. Dont get a KB get a centri or a turbo their much faster. My dad has an 07' california special with 3.73's, aluminum driveshaft, steeda shifter,o/r h and flows, and a intercooled paxton blower. he crunched 11.56 at jersey.. the k.b's are lucky to do low 12's. roots/twin screw feel faster, centris Are faster.

 

[kingkong101 10+ year member]

and my dads car passed the sniffer test, without the blower, he never tried with. so i knew that already //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Betrayer00GT 10+ year member]

roots/twin screw feel faster, centris Are faster.

Hmm....

I hadn't heard that before, let me see what else I can turn up on that. If so, they are also cheaper. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif