Doors Damplified! *PICS*

[flakko 5,000+ posts]

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ht

 

[bikinpunk 10+ year member]

I scored it and snapped it. Only tried cutting thin plexi with a jigsaw once, will never try again, it just broke to shit when the saw tried to go through it.
I believe there are plexi specific blades that work that are more of a friction cut than teeth like for metal/wood.

My rule of thumb is anything under 1/4" can be cut using a jig-saw. Score and snap for anything thinner.

But, I ****ing hate scoring and snapping.

 

[Zxcvtypo 10+ year member]

don't use roofing materials

reason being, other then it's not as solid as other materials?

seems to be working out fine for me..doesn't give at all when i press in on it.

 

[SRim23 5,000+ posts]

I don't think deadening inside the door is "needed", but I may help. I've heard great results w/o it. as long as the panel/baffle where the speaker is mounted on is nice stiff and deadened.
It looks nice, just cover the holes as others said

if the inside of his door is anything like my civic then he def needs to deaden the inside as well. honestly you could probably give a good tap with your knuckle and dent a civic....

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

reason being, other then it's not as solid as other materials?
seems to be working out fine for me..doesn't give at all when i press in on it.

I think he was referring to using asphalt flashing instead of butyl sound deadener. Good advice, just wrong context.

The thin aluminum sheeting sold as flashing is ideal for sealing holes - I've used it for several years now. I double it up for large areas, seal it up with silicone and hold it in place with self tapping screws. Easiest to work sheet metal you can find and it's impervious to moisture. Cheap and readily available.

 

[Rudy 10+ year member]

if the inside of his door is anything like my civic then he def needs to deaden the inside as well. honestly you could probably give a good tap with your knuckle and dent a civic....

Agreed. Doing the outer skin (inside surface of exterior painted sheet metal) is very important. The single greatest bang for the buck application is the 12" or so square directly behind a door mounted speaker. Just as much energy is coming out of the back of the speaker as the front.

Almost all cars that are not "luxury" brands need serious help with the doors. I just had some fun with a client comparing the sound the doors of my Civic make when you slam them to her 7 series BMW. Very hard to tell the difference with your eyes closed. When we tapped on the roof, fenders, quarter panels and trunk lid, mine sounded much more solid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[bigbangtheory 5,000+ posts]

Looks good so far, but just like everyone else has mentioned, deaden the inner skin and I also suggest the cardboard effect. Seems to work, well did in my last ride. I need to get to my current one. Just have the trunk, roof and floorboards done. I have yet to get to my doors. I have some cheap componets up front right now. Once I put in my Alpine x's in there, I will get at it.

 

[Zxcvtypo 10+ year member]

I think he was referring to using asphalt flashing instead of butyl sound deadener. Good advice, just wrong context.
The thin aluminum sheeting sold as flashing is ideal for sealing holes - I've used it for several years now. I double it up for large areas, seal it up with silicone and hold it in place with self tapping screws. Easiest to work sheet metal you can find and it's impervious to moisture. Cheap and readily available.

ah alright ty, i was talking about the aluminum anyways

 

[zeuolaxxx 10+ year member]

Next week I am going to deadeing my doors.. Do I need to deadening inside the door ??? or only outside? or both?