- Thread Starter
- #16
I have upgraded the big 3 and some in the engine compartment.Unless you have a battery isolator you need to only run the yellow top. Without that isolator batteries need to be the same if there are multiple.
Have you always had the problem of rpms dipping or is it just since the short trips started? The problem we got on a tangent about is related to you in a way since the problem does come from a weak electrical system, now we just have to help you pin point it. I would suggest first to go drive around a while with everything turned off, at least 20min or so just to be sure, then play the stereo like you were before. Do the rpms still dip? Did it help at all and if so how long?
One last question, have you upgraded any of the car's wiring, like alternator or battery grounds and such?
I dont have an isolater... from what I have read and been told the isolator only prevents the power from the battery in the trunk, to get used by the battery in the front. Basically if my headlights are on it will allow me to jumpstart my own car with the battery in the trunk...
As far as the RPMs dipping, this has only occured when I was in Park and bass was all the way up, volume up as well... When I have it in drive it is fine. I have a volt meter inline right before the battery and from what i can see it doesnt go below 12 on the meter... I should go test it in a parking lot... in fact Ill be right back...
bottom line is you can run it off the current alternator but you are going to kill it sooner or later...netherland24_ this topic really helped me out, i have one question though i just got 2 1200 mono concept amps and i dont know subs yeah but whatever, i have a die hard Gold battery, with a 130 stock alternator. in a ford windstar would it be able to take 2400 watts? all original wiring under the hood. thanks
