hmm what kind of car cause my mcc6 comps had pretty decent mid bass in my truck doors and the were sealed and deadened with foam on the front trim ring to seal the front of the speaker to the door panel nice and tight
if you have a gap in between the door panel and the door u might be losing mid-bass there. how are your cross overs set mine were high-passed at 60hz and i ran 100w to mine without a problem.
Install dependant means your door sealing and deadening needs attention if you have poor midbass. If you use a dedicated midbass driver you'd want to bandpass it from like 50-200 Hz and the main speakers from 200 up. Hard to do passively.
I do have a gap between the inside door panel and the speaker. i never thought that the door panel would cause any difference since the door is sealed from the front of the speaker and door panel.
its not a huge gap...but i'll look into that thanks. Its a 05 Honda Civic. i used a 3/4 spacer which is sealed tight, but still left a gap in front of the door panel's grill. not sure how i'd fix that atm cause the grill in the door panel is stock and weird shaped, not round.
so could this be my main issue?
I run a dedicated 6.5" midbass in sealed/deadened doors (with a custom baffle). About 20 hours of effort.
I run midrange in the kick - fully customized, removed metal, flush with carpet, vented to body cavity. Considering I can put a 6.5" and a 4" in the kick, the effort was greater than just one. at least 40 hours of effort.
your goals can be me with your plans, provided you get the doors well sealed and deadened. Depth is your challenge here. I went with the (affordable) Silver Flute woofers but had to gain another 1/2" of depth (on top of the 1" i already gained). This meant permanent modifications to the door metal and door panel.
as far as amplification, building a sufficient passive low pass around 200Hz will not be cheap. You want to high pass the kick woofer as well. Probably around $30 per side, mostly in the inductors.
Getting "up front bass" also requires you turn down your sub level to better match the midbass output. getting that transition correct is key. you can do this by ear or with an RTA. we want a midbass bump, but it should start with the midbass, not the subs. most systems are incapable of this, or have the subs turned up too high.
once you get to the kicks, the level of customization is high. probably 30 hours or so per kick. it's more than a Q-form. you want either a sealed, airtight, and rigid cavity, or you want to vent to the exterior. which you do depends on the T/S of the woofer used.
nothing in a car is "infinite baffle". a door is just box that is much larger than the air spring compliance of the woofer. so the woofer suspension is not helped by the airspace. Just ensure the door woofer crossover is an octave or so above the woofer Fs. if the pod is sealed, this concern goes away.
thank you for that info. i'll refer to all this when i have time to redo my system. AFAI can tell, my door itself is pretty well sealed, but of course the window just has the weather strip and there may be air escaping through that or the lock mechanism....not sure what i can really do about all that.
i have spent much time adjusting the subs. its not too loud, rather there isn't enough bass up front for me to get enough sound out the subs if that makes sense. Like i said before, i had it right when i used my Maxxbass processor. it really did make my fronts sound like i had subs up front...however that processor is just too noisy and i got tired of hearing that buzz through my speakers when the volume was low
As far as kicks. i was actually just going to buy some from
Crutchfield..yeah i know, i'm not really the type to build stuff. Maybe adding another midbass isn't the right option for me. I'm not after perfect sound, just want my subs to be more up stage.
How about i just get an underseat sub?
i have to kinda comprimise somewhere here i can tell already.
nothing in a car is "infinite baffle". a door is just box that is much larger than the air spring compliance of the woofer. so the woofer suspension is not helped by the airspace. Just ensure the door woofer crossover is an octave or so above the woofer Fs. if the pod is sealed, this concern goes away
Well is there not woofer's with specs allowing for IB installations? i know there used to be, in the 90's lots of subs stated the enclosure type they were designed for like sealed, ported or IB...today its just ported and sealed both it seems... i believe IB is more a coin term to suggest you can use your trunk (large space) for the enclosure.... i read before that there is a spec range to look for to determine if a driver can be used in an IB like fashion...yes meaning using my entire door as the box.
