Options for youwhy would i be a troll? all i basically stated is that the regulators in our toyota alt's are the real part to worry about and that a capacitor alone is enough to stop them from failing. i know for a fact that if he has a 01 v6 camry that he is running a 1mzfe and mine is a 3vzfe, basically the same engine except a few differences in materials. 3vzfe is cast iron block and distributor, while the 1mzfe is C.O.P and alluminum block. other than that they have the same alt and power outputs so i don't see how me saying that with my setup that i was popping VR's like crazy and i just picked up a capacitor and it stopped is trolling. i have yet to find a place by me that can build me a HO alternator for these toyota v6's so that isn't even an option for me.
For a burp yes. The thing you can't really calculate is duty cycle. (the point is, since your battery does not generate energy you can't count on it's ah rating for very long. TIME IS A FACTOR)Assuming you're completely maxing out everything and you are relying on the ah rating of your batt for reserve to keep the voltage up, since batts are discharging and not charging, they can only discharge for so long. So, if you're playing your stereo full tilt for several minutes the battery's ah rating drops considerably because the alt isn't charging them. They are discharging and running out of juice. Eventually something will let go. This cannot be sustained indefinitely. The more current drawn the less time you have to do this.So when calculating the total load your electrical system can handle, its ok to factor in your battery's Ah, as well as your alt amps??
I thought the math was (alt amps) x (14.4v) = (total watts) - 40% (for vehicle to run) = total watts available for audio
if its (alt amps + batt Ah) that could save some money....a stock 105 alt with a 120ah agm could power 1944 watts with that math. I wouldnt see someone needing both HO alt and battery until 2k+
Every now and then it'll help people that just have a little hiccup. Maybe the cap has bigger wire that helps or something. Or a ground gets fixed in the installation process and that cures it. But generally a capacitor is entirely useless in the use of helping your electrical. A big 3 will be much more effective. Capacitors can be used to filter noise in intense SQ systems though, which is what it was invented for in the first place. I always link people to this for info on caps: :: NANOPULSER.COM.SG ::Now I just feel dumb, I really wasn't trolling. I'm not really big into audio but I understand a lot of it. A capacitor rely doesn't help take load off the alt? I have checked with a multimeter with and with out and the voltage fluctuates a lot less with the cap and I stopped blowing up regulators with it so I assumed it helped. Not sure if it only helped by taking some of the strain off or if it was a fluke.
The Big Three is adding much heavier gauge wire (usually 1/0) from 1) Battery positive to alt
2) Battery neg to chassis
3) Battery neg to engine block
in addition to that, if you have the wire, you could also go: 1) firewall to engine block
2) battery - to frame
3) battery + to fuse box
4) (underneath vehicle) amp ground to frame