Do I really need a HO alternator?

BlackHawk99
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Hi. I wanted to know if you think I really need a HO alternator. I have a 2001 Toyota Camry LE V6 with less than 50,00 original miles on it. It has what I believe is a 80 amp stock alternator. Right now I have a 4 channel class AB amp. It's a Rockford Fosgate Power T600-4 (100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohm) with 2 channels powering a front set of components. I'm getting a new class D mono amp this week. Once I get it, 2 channels of the T600-4 will be retired. The new amp will be the Rockford Fosgate Power T1000-1bdCP and it will power a sub or two. It does 700 watts x 1 @ 4 ohm or 1,000 watts x 1 @ 2 ohm. I will not run it below 2 ohm. I may even get a JL Audio sub that is 3 ohm, but I haven't decided. Would that 3 ohm load throw things off in some way? I am also looking hard at a Boston SPG555, Boston G5 or G3 sub. My headunit is a Pioneer AVH-P3200BT DVD receiver. Front Speakers: Focal 165 VB components. I also have a Rockford Fosgate Punch PEQ Equalization Remote (controls bass level from front seat). I've been told and also read that as long as I don't go over 2,000 watts the stock alternator will be fine with this system. Others disagree. Some think it will be fine as long as I do the Big 3 upgrade with the stock alternator. What do you think? If I must get a HO alternator what amp are we talking about? If I try to run this system with the stock alternator am I looking at any potential damage issues? I don't want to fire this thing up if that's the case. Let me know if you need any additional information. I appreciate your help!

 
you better get the alt or at least a 2nd battery until you get the alt.it will be better for the cars electrical and amps
Hmm I thought 2 batteries would put more of a strain... instead of 1 battery to charge you would now have two? My current battery is a Interstate Mega-Tron Plus 24F with 1000 cranking amps and 800 cold cranking amps.

 
no it wont
I disagree: the OP is correct that an additional battery does, indeed, create additional load for the alt...at least it does anytime the VR recognizes that the voltage has dropped below threshhold, and starts bumping output to charge the batt.

With 2 batt's vs/ 1, it is just that your reserve is greater before it gets to that point, which gives a false sense of being "okay."

In reality , you're prolly making an undersized alt work even harder, which will likely make it die sooner.

 
I disagree: the OP is correct that an additional battery does, indeed, create additional load for the alt...at least it does anytime the VR recognizes that the voltage has dropped below threshhold, and starts bumping output to charge the batt.With 2 batt's vs/ 1, it is just that your reserve is greater before it gets to that point, which gives a false sense of being "okay."

In reality , you're prolly making an undersized alt work even harder, which will likely make it die sooner.
That's they way I understand it as well.

 
actually it does not make it work harder ,the alt kicks in at a certain rpm rating ,not when the battery gets low.also the stereo pulls power from the battery not the alt.try hooking up your system to just the alt with no battery.nothing will work.the extra battery just gives the system extra reserve the ho alt just helps keep the alt charged up or charges faster.end result is you really need both if you want a bigger system ,the 2nd battery will work but depending on the system you may have to charge every week or so ,because the alt cant keep up.

 
Say what now?
I was thinking this as well...from my understanding, the only time your car pulls any kind of current from the battery is when A. you're starting the vehicle and B. the voltage drops down to your battery's resting voltage (i.e. the alternator is no longer the highest voltage source)

 
I have read this theory about additional batteries putting additional strain on the alt a lot lately... but the way I see it, the alt doesn't know if its charging 1 or 8 batteries, it just does what its designed to do. Where does any additional strain come in to play? It outputs a set amount throughout an rpm range no matter what's "connected" to it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
Think of your alt as a water pump. And your batts some buckets. You stock water pump can pump out say 100 gallions per minute (gpm). Your car probably drinks 50gpm's under normal operating conditions. Now add an amp that drinks 50gpm's. All is well.

Now put in an amp that drinks 100gpm's. Where are you going to get that extra water? From the buckets. Buckets too small and the amp runs out of water, overheats and dies. Add larger buckets and you can use the extra water for longer, BUT the pump has to keep those buckets full too. More water for the pump to pump out means extra strain.

Add a 200gpm pump and you may not even get into the buckets.

****, That's a lame analogy. I could have just said alt, batts and amperage. Lol.

 
I have read this theory about additional batteries putting additional strain on the alt a lot lately... but the way I see it, the alt doesn't know if its charging 1 or 8 batteries, it just does what its designed to do. Where does any additional strain come in to play? It outputs a set amount throughout an rpm range no matter what's "connected" to it. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif
You clearly have no idea how an alternator works.

Current Demand and Flow:

If you have an alternator that can produce 120 amps of current (max) and the the total current demand from the electrical accessories (including the battery) is only 20 amps, the alternator will only produce the necessary current (20 amps) to maintain the target voltage (which is determined by the alternator's internal voltage regulator). Remember that the alternator monitors the electrical system's voltage. If the voltage starts to fall below the target voltage (approximately 13.8 volts depending on the alternator's design), the alternator produces more current to keep the voltage up. When the demand for current is low, the full current capacity of the alternator is not used/produced (a 120 amp alternator does not continuously produce 120 amps unless there is a sufficient current draw

 
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