Do I have enoug juice?

Thanks yall. I ended up getting a Kinetik 2400 for $175! I won't be able to enjoy it until next week because I got into a minor car accident this past weekend. Some hefa made a last minute right hand turn (right in front of me) from the center lane across my lane. No turn signal, it was rainning and she was on her cell phone talking to her boyfriend whom she was meeting up with. I was in the right hand lane so I broadsided her.

STUPID, STUPID, STUPID! I was HOT! I was more pissed about the possibility of my system being fried than I was the damage to my car. "That's bad LOL"! After making sure everybody was okay, I popped the trunk to check on my system. Tell me why her boyfriend started running to his car cuz he thought I was grabbin my gun. LOL!

 
What's the best way to hook up my trunk battery? I'm running it without an isolator. My buddy told me that I should just run my hot from the batt up front to my trunk batt then to my cap and amp. For the ground just ground it in the trunk.

If I remember correctly the guy who I got it from said that I should also run a wire from my hood battery's negative post to the negative post of my trunk batt and then groung my trunk batt in my trunk. I don't think that's right. Need some help on this one.

 
I would use fused 0 gauge, or bigger if possible, and run both positive and negative wires from the front battery to the back, and then run the amp off of the back battery.

If possible, get an isolator, it will make both batteries last much longer, as otherwise, the rear battery ends up charging the front, and it can mess with things.

 
Okay what I've done so far is: I've already ran the pos from batt to batt. I've grounded the batt in back to the chassis in my trunk. I ran a power wire from the batt in the back to my amp.

The amp doesn't gettin enough juice with that. Cuz all it does is make my subs "pulsate" in an out with a loud bump, bump, bump, bump over and over.

The guy who sold me the batt said it's because I didn't run the neg up front to the neg in back. Therefore my back battery isn't charging.

So by running the to negatives together that should fix the problem right. Cuz I know by adding that Kinetik 2400 is enough juice for that Mmats amp, I just don't have it hooked up right. Thanks yall again for all your help so far.

 
Am I right with that assumption? I'm getting a batt isolator in about a week or so. But I still wanna run it like yall suggested.

 
Pulsing usually=bad ground, not voltage.
Naw my grounds are solid. It was doing that when I was just trying to test the amp out without the second battery. None of my other amps had any problems. So it's not my grounds. I really think this think just needs alot of juice and I haven't hooked it up correctly yet. One dude said that that might come from my RCAs, but I don't think so.

 
Do a run from negative to negative. Don't ground it to the car frame, it doesn't give a great connection to charge the batteries through. That shouldn't be the amp issue, though.

It's not likely the RCA's if you haven't had issues with them before. May be a consideration, but not the first thing to try, though it's a cheaper thing to try if you don't mind taking the time.

Isolator will definitely help. Short term, fine, but long term, unless you want to replace batteries frequently, as said..

Double check the grounds for the issue, too. Just to be sure. Make sure it's sanded to bare metal.

Hope it works out ^^

 
I'm getting a 200 amp Battery Isolator today. I have the Kinetik 2400, but I'm not sure that's the enough juice for that amp. The Mmats 3500.1 draws like 300 amps. I still can't turn the gain more than a 3rd of the way up without getting that hard "Pulsating" action from my subs from the amp. So I think I need another battery in addition to what I already have. Just to fill you in, I have a Titanium Autocraft Battery under the hood the specs are: 875 Cranking Amps, 700 Cold Cranking Amps & 95 Reserve Capacity, Big 3 0 Gauge, 200 Amp Alternator, Kinetik 2400 & an Xstatic Super 100 (35 Farads).

When I try to cut the gain past a 3rd of the way up at 1 ohm, my subs pulsate and my lights dim along with the pulsating. I'm callin Mmats today, hopefully they'll be some help.

 
The Florida and ghetto comments were based around the notion of having way too many point sources in your front stage simply based on the idea that more is always better, not due to the brand names chosen. A properly set up mid level set of speakers can easily sound better than a high end set of speakers set up improperly.

 
I'm getting a 200 amp Battery Isolator today. I have the Kinetik 2400, but I'm not sure that's the enough juice for that amp. The Mmats 3500.1 draws like 300 amps. I still can't turn the gain more than a 3rd of the way up without getting that hard "Pulsating" action from my subs from the amp. So I think I need another battery in addition to what I already have. Just to fill you in, I have a Titanium Autocraft Battery under the hood the specs are: 875 Cranking Amps, 700 Cold Cranking Amps & 95 Reserve Capacity, Big 3 0 Gauge, 200 Amp Alternator, Kinetik 2400 & an Xstatic Super 100 (35 Farads).
When I try to cut the gain past a 3rd of the way up at 1 ohm, my subs pulsate and my lights dim along with the pulsating. I'm callin Mmats today, hopefully they'll be some help.
Never heard of that brand of cap... For the heck of it, try disconnecting it. See if you still get the pulsing.

A capacitor doesn't help a system overall in the same manner a battery does, though it has its uses in other ways. It shouldn't hurt it, either, but if it isn't working properly, it can.

It could be an issue of running low on juice, too, but this is easy to try.

 
Never heard of that brand of cap... For the heck of it, try disconnecting it. See if you still get the pulsing.
A capacitor doesn't help a system overall in the same manner a battery does, though it has its uses in other ways. It shouldn't hurt it, either, but if it isn't working properly, it can.

It could be an issue of running low on juice, too, but this is easy to try.

Xstatic makes BatCap, I'm sure you heard of them. I'll try what you suggested, thanks!

 
Man, I think I just found out what it is. My ground wire is way too long. The Mmats amp takes two grounds. The grounds are ran to a distribution block that is about 2.5-3 feet away mounted on another speaker box. I'm gonna ground it alot closer.

Also I think I should double up on the power wire and run a second wire from the front battery to the back battery. Reason being is because when I run the amp (even with the gain just a 1/3 of the way up), the power wire running off my hood battery starts to melt at the point where it connects to the 300 amp fuse. It can't handle the current.

Once I do all this, I should be straight, but we'll see.

 
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