Do I have enoug juice?

[jkok7 10+ year member]

I have a Chevy Malibu LS (LOL), is lined with eDead 45 Sound Deadener. I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-p390mp Deck, a HOA 200 amp, an upgraded battery, The Big 3 (0-gauged), Planet Audio 2 Farad Cap, Xstatic Supercap 100 (35 Farads), 8 component speakers Combo of Kicker & MTX, two of which I mounted in the headrests, 6 tweeters, 2 Sony Xplod XM-Z604 4 channel amps, 4 Rockford Fosgate P3 D2 12s in 4 Separate 1.3 cubic feet each lined with polyfill.

Now I was powering my subs with a Visonik V2908 pushing a little over 1200 watts, my lights never dimmed and when I was driving I always stayed at between 13.5 to 14.4 volts. But when I stopped at lights, that when I started to fall in the 12v down to the 11 volt range.

Now I have a Mmats 3500.1D coming. Will I have an issue with being able to run that amp while driving? (Not in idle)

Thanks in advance!

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[basscort2009 5,000+ posts]

you will need to get rid of that cap and get a real big battery with ur HO alt. i have them check my sig or FS thread. one of my sprinter batteries will suffice greatly

 

[CRXBMPN 5,000+ posts]

sounds like your HO alt doesnt produce shit at idle

 

[FurbiesAndBeans 10+ year member]

why the **** do u need 6 tweeters for?

 

[spencer321 10+ year member]

I have a Chevy Malibu LS (LOL), is lined with eDead 45 Sound Deadener. I have a Pioneer Premier DEH-p390mp Deck, a HOA 200 amp, an upgraded battery, The Big 3 (0-gauged), Planet Audio 2 Farad Cap, Xstatic Supercap 100 (35 Farads), 8 component speakers Combo of Kicker & MTX, two of which I mounted in the headrests, 6 tweeters, 2 Sony Xplod XM-Z604 4 channel amps, 4 Rockford Fosgate P3 D2 12s in 4 Separate 1.3 cubic feet each lined with polyfill.
Now I was powering my subs with a Visonik V2908 pushing a little over 1200 watts, my lights never dimmed and when I was driving I always stayed at between 13.5 to 14.4 volts. But when I stopped at lights, that when I started to fall in the 12v down to the 11 volt range.

Now I have a Mmats 3500.1D coming. Will I have an issue with being able to run that amp while driving? (Not in idle)

Thanks in advance!

prepare to get flamed, your system is just full of ghetto

thank god you aren't from florida, we got a bad rep for that as it is

 

[jkok7 10+ year member]

Look, I just asked a question. I got them in a trade and the guy just threw them in. And I'm sorry if you think my system is ghetto, it's still a work in progress. Eventually I will have all the component and smaller amps matching, but until then this will have to do. Thank you to the first two dudes who helped me out a little bit.

To the last poster, when you said "flamed" did you mean it in a slang sense? And no Florida isn't the only state that has that rep, it's very common down in Oklahoma, Texas & Arkansas too. I don't compete, I just bump round and about.

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

He means that all the equipment is crap. Not much of a work in progress when the only progress made is junk. Kicker and MTX comps ****. Sony xplode amps ****. Capacitors are useless when you don't have an electrical to back it. 6 tweeters? Wtf. Probably junk ones, too.

Yes, you'll have issues. I'm taking a guess that the HO alt is an ebay one or something similar. You need a good reputable one. Those ones off of skechy websites or ebay typically do worse than a stock alt. You need several deep cycle batteries in addition to the front one. Capacitors aren't really needed.

 

[WOT]

Sell it on craigslist and start over

 

[jkok7 10+ year member]

He means that all the equipment is crap. Not much of a work in progress when the only progress made is junk. Kicker and MTX comps ****. Sony xplode amps ****. Capacitors are useless when you don't have an electrical to back it. 6 tweeters? Wtf. Probably junk ones, too.
Yes, you'll have issues. I'm taking a guess that the HO alt is an ebay one or something similar. You need a good reputable one. Those ones off of skechy websites or ebay typically do worse than a stock alt. You need several deep cycle batteries in addition to the front one. Capacitors aren't really needed.

Thank man. I've since bought all Polk Audio Comps, I don't have the Sony amps, now I have a 4 channel Interfire thats one ohm stable and runs all my mids and highs. The alternator you guessed right, I got it off of Ebay from DB Electronics. All the other other places around town either didn't have one or were ridiculously high. It actually is a 200 amp alt., my stock was 105 amps. This alt does way better, I never have any issues. Only in Idle.

But check this out, a dude on Craigs list is offering me an Enersys HX330 for $90. I know it's a Gel Cell, what do yall think?

 

[djarmy2004 10+ year member]

well first off gl with build as your gonna need it. 2nd- i hope you went some some **** nice polk comonets. now the Interfire amp:/. I would say depending on your budget get some used equipment off here as i see all dif kinds of good sets like the rainbow's and what not. What HU do u have please tell me its not sony also. Are you sure your alt does 200 as you have a ampere mete and have checked this. To hell with that batt, go sprinter or C&D they are very good. alot of people on here might say kinetik but for the price u pay for a kinetik u can get a C&D or sprinter off here thats got anywhere for 50-80 more ah

 

[Plutoman 10+ year member]

The alt probably does 200 amps at higher RPM's, while doing lower than the stock amp at idle.

It's fairly common, and why they are so cheap. They're wound in a manner to produce high amperage at high RPM's, which is easier to do, while they produce shit for idle RPM's. And it's exactly where your problem lies.

The issue is best solved by a better HO alt - my recommendation is towards a Mechman alternator. Otherwise, a better battery(s) will help. I don't know battery brands very well, but the rating you want to see is the reserve amount, and you want a deep cycle, as it'll be drained frequently.

The Polk Audio is a definite improvement. I'm not sure it would be my choice, or the best for the money, but they're decent. I honestly haven't heard of Interfire. If it produces good power, then it works.

 

[jkok7 10+ year member]

well first off gl with build as your gonna need it. 2nd- i hope you went some some **** nice polk comonets. now the Interfire amp:/. I would say depending on your budget get some used equipment off here as i see all dif kinds of good sets like the rainbow's and what not. What HU do u have please tell me its not sony also. Are you sure your alt does 200 as you have a ampere mete and have checked this. To hell with that batt, go sprinter or C&D they are very good. alot of people on here might say kinetik but for the price u pay for a kinetik u can get a C&D or sprinter off here thats got anywhere for 50-80 more ah

I said I had a Pioneer Premier DEH-p390mp Deck in the first post. LOL

Also I didn't understand what you were saying in your first sentence at all. A little clarity? I've been researching it and it seems like the Enersys HX330 is a very good battery. Check it out on their website. And let me know.

The alt probably does 200 amps at higher RPM's, while doing lower than the stock amp at idle.
It's fairly common, and why they are so cheap. They're wound in a manner to produce high amperage at high RPM's, which is easier to do, while they produce shit for idle RPM's. And it's exactly where your problem lies.

The issue is best solved by a better HO alt - my recommendation is towards a Mechman alternator. Otherwise, a better battery(s) will help. I don't know battery brands very well, but the rating you want to see is the reserve amount, and you want a deep cycle, as it'll be drained frequently.

The Polk Audio is a definite improvement. I'm not sure it would be my choice, or the best for the money, but they're decent. I honestly haven't heard of Interfire. If it produces good power, then it works.

Your exactly right, that's the problem. Maybe their looking at the burning gas factor at Idle, IDK? Secondly what components would you have went with for the money?

 

[plugitin 5,000+ posts]

burning gas factor...huh? What good is a HO alt when at idle it doesn't produce the amperage required to power all of your accessories? Get a decent alternator. Your car is going to die what that mmats

 

[jkok7 10+ year member]

burning gas factor...huh? What good is a HO alt when at idle it doesn't produce the amperage required to power all of your accessories? Get a decent alternator. Your car is going to die what that mmats

I wasn't sayin that agreed with the gas factor, I was just trying to figure out what the point was in DB Electronics making that type of alt.

Do you know anything about the Gel Cell Enersys batteries I mentioned?

 

[djarmy2004 10+ year member]

i have never heard of the batts your talking about. but from what i remember the mmats amps take alot of juice to power so u def need electrical to back it up. Have you done the big 3? that should be your first step. the hu should work for a starter system. my suggestions on batts are C&D and Sprinter. On the alt contact robbie at dc power inc. my alt is a xp260 it does 200@ idle and 260@ 1300 rpm if i remeber correctly. Your gonna pay good money for a good alt