Disappointed with Kicker Comp R.

Imperiumwolf

CarAudio.com Newbie
24
7
Kansas
I had numerous stereo systems in high school in the mid to late 90's but have been out of the scene since around 2000 or so. A few years ago I got a new truck (2016 Ram 1500 Quad Cab) and decided that I wanted to tinker around with car audio again.

This past week I installed a dual 2 ohm 10" Kicker Comp R in a FoxBox with a Kicker 46CXA400.1T. I'm using the factory head unit with a PAC t-harness and a Kicker Kisloc2.

I have bass now but it is extremely underwhelming. Honestly, it doesn't seem much louder than the Bose system in my wife's Nissan Murano. I realize this is an entry level subwoofer, but I've ran numerous budget subs in the past, on less power, and they all had much more volume and played deeper.

I'm not sure where I went wrong. I am positive I wired it correctly to 1 ohm. I tried setting the gains with my multimeter but I can't seem to get any readings that make sense (they constantly jump all over the place; it's also reading the sub at 0 ohms despite the sub working). It's a cheap GE multimeter and I plan on getting a better one this weekend. So right now I have the gain set just above the lowest setting.

I was so excited to have some bass again and now I'm wondering if I should have even bothered with it. Am I just expecting too much from a $100 sub?
 
That driver is fairly inefficient. It will want all of that 400 or close to it. The driver requires a 1.25 (really more like 1.5 stuffed) cu ft box if you want any low end out of it in a sealed setup. It would do okay in a 1.75 cu ft box ported. From kicker:

  • Minimum Enclosure Volume: 1.25 ft³ with a 10½" x 2" x 20" slot port
  • Maximum Enclosure Volume: 1.75 ft³ with a 10½" x 2½" x 20" slot port
Honestly, you should get some substantial output in any case. Could be a defective amp. You used the kicker LOC then you need to set the amps input to low level in or in the "out" position on that amp.

A better amplifier solution would be these:


- OR -

 
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That driver is fairly inefficient. It will want all of that 400 or close to it. The driver requires a 1.25 (really more like 1.5 stuffed) cu ft box if you want any low end out of it in a sealed setup. It would do okay in a 1.75 cu ft box ported. From kicker:

  • Minimum Enclosure Volume: 1.25 ft³ with a 10½" x 2" x 20" slot port
  • Maximum Enclosure Volume: 1.75 ft³ with a 10½" x 2½" x 20" slot port
Honestly, you should get some substantial output in any case. Could be a defective amp. You used the kicker LOC then you need to set the amps input to low level in or in the "out" position on that amp.

A better amplifier solution would be these:


- OR -

Yes, set to low level. I pushed it in and out to make sure.
 
need 1.25 to 1.5 sealed for that driver to play lower than around 45-50hz. Stuff 1lb of polyfill in it if you have to keep that small-ish box.
Definitely have to keep the box. It fits under the seat so I need to work with it.

I don't know at this point if I should return the sub and look for something better or try something like the Audiocontrol LC2i.
 
Yes, set to low level. I pushed it in and out to make sure.
Are you able to plug a phone or laptop into the amp to see if it is working okay?

You may also be running into another issue with some of the new OEM head units. The OEM unit may actually cut the bass out or cut it back on the OEM system when it is turned up to avoid damaging the factory drivers. I would testthat by getting a cable and plugging your phone or laptop into the amp bypassing the HU..



Play something off of youtube, see if the bass is still lacking. If it is then you may have an amp that is a dud. If not, then your HU is likely the source of the problem.
 
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Check the crossovers on the HU, make sure you are sending a full signal. If it turns out to be the HU, then the LC2i Pro with accubass would be a good option. It restores what the factory HU takes out.
 
Check the crossovers on the HU, make sure you are sending a full signal. If it turns out to be the HU, then the LC2i Pro with accubass would be a good option. It restores what the factory HU takes out.
Those adapters are a cheap way to isolate the amp and test it out.
 
Thank you for the quick replies. I will definitely get the rca adapter and try it out. I failed to notice that the amp accepts high level inputs, so I plan on taking out the Kisloc and trying that out. If all else fails, I'll try the LC2i Pro.
 
I would be willing to bet that it's the radio causing the issue, I had a 13 ram with the same issue till I switched out to a aftermarket radio, I was using the dual 12 fox box that was ported. I was also using 10" adapters cause I knew the airspace was not adequate enough.
 
I would be willing to bet that it's the radio causing the issue, I had a 13 ram with the same issue till I switched out to a aftermarket radio, I was using the dual 12 fox box that was ported. I was also using 10" adapters cause I knew the airspace was not adequate enough.
That's exactly why I went with the 10" adapters.

I'm still undecided on if I want to get the Audiocontrol LC2i Pro or an aftermarket head unit. I'm not really a fan of the newer touchscreen radio and would rather have a double DIN Kenwood with a volume knob.
 
That's exactly why I went with the 10" adapters.

I'm still undecided on if I want to get the Audiocontrol LC2i Pro or an aftermarket head unit. I'm not really a fan of the newer touchscreen radio and would rather have a double DIN Kenwood with a volume knob.
The main difference in the pro and non pro versions of the LCi units is the fixed subsonic filter. The Pro is 24hz and the non pro is 33 hz. Given the frequency that the sub you have is going to get down to, either would work fine.
 
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